Pioneer chainsaws
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machinisttx
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Thanks! All I was able to find previously was for the older points ignition P26.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was right, the cracked plastic elbow at the carb is sucking air/leaking fuel. Trying to get some pics up...computer isn't cooperating. Tried pouring a bit of fuel in the carb and it won't hit a lick. The compression release moved freely when I had the starter housing off. I did shine up the magnets on the flywheel, but the screws for the coil wouldn't budge, so I couldn't clean it up. Don't have a compression tester, or I'd check that.
Edit: somewhere in this thread I saw a post that said some parts are still available from poulan if you prefix them with a certain number. I've been looking for a while and can't find it again. I don't really mind the $3 or so for a carb kit, but it's kind of pointless if I can't find an air filter.
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Edit: somewhere in this thread I saw a post that said some parts are still available from poulan if you prefix them with a certain number. I've been looking for a while and can't find it again. I don't really mind the $3 or so for a carb kit, but it's kind of pointless if I can't find an air filter.
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That would be the Pioneer number preceded by 507. I think that is only for the Poulan Pioneers 405, 455, 525, 655.
Those were all large frame saws P40 through P60 series
507 works for all Pioneer numbers.
I don't think you're going to find a filter cover or a filter brand new anywhere except ebay but I could be wrong. I know there were new covers on there not long ago.
If that plastic elbow is cracked on the carb a kit won't fix that, it isn't included in the kit. Is it a walbro or a tillotson carb?
I don't think you're going to find a filter cover or a filter brand new anywhere except ebay but I could be wrong. I know there were new covers on there not long ago.
If that plastic elbow is cracked on the carb a kit won't fix that, it isn't included in the kit. Is it a walbro or a tillotson carb?
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's a borg warner/tillotson carb. I've found a couple of air covers, but I'm not having any luck so far with a filter. I posted a pic of the elbow earlier. It appears to be a separate part from the carb, just to make connecting the fuel line a bit easier.
Yeah, when I went back the second time your picture was there. You can get a carb kit at any small engine place. And yeah, the filters are probably harder to find. I might have a used one. And I have an elbow or a carb if you need one.
Not the successful day I was planning
I finally took the time this weekend to go through the fuel system on my Supertwin 51. My goal was to get it running today. Fuel system is cleaned up, made a couple of new gaskets and checked for spark. Here's where it went sideways. There's only spark in the forward cylinder. I swapped plugs. The forward plug continued to spark but no life in the rear. I pulled the recoil to get at the flywheel and ultimately the ignition system. Here's what I found in the flywheel. Every fin was cracked in the same direction. A few are missing. I would say there's less than 25% of the original metal holding the pieces together. The cracks are long. Could years of pull starting really cause this?
Parts for this saw are rare so if I can't find a used flywheel I'll have to have it welded back together. I have some leads in this area for the repair. My concern is I could cause non-repairable damage when I try to shift all the pieces back into alignment.
Well, I still need to get spark in both cylinders. There's no way the flywheel nut is right hand thread is there? :msp_unsure: I want to get it off but am always hesitant. Really, are there any saws that have right hand thread flywheel nuts? I should have asked this question years ago!!
Thanks in advance for the advice!
I finally took the time this weekend to go through the fuel system on my Supertwin 51. My goal was to get it running today. Fuel system is cleaned up, made a couple of new gaskets and checked for spark. Here's where it went sideways. There's only spark in the forward cylinder. I swapped plugs. The forward plug continued to spark but no life in the rear. I pulled the recoil to get at the flywheel and ultimately the ignition system. Here's what I found in the flywheel. Every fin was cracked in the same direction. A few are missing. I would say there's less than 25% of the original metal holding the pieces together. The cracks are long. Could years of pull starting really cause this?
Parts for this saw are rare so if I can't find a used flywheel I'll have to have it welded back together. I have some leads in this area for the repair. My concern is I could cause non-repairable damage when I try to shift all the pieces back into alignment.
Well, I still need to get spark in both cylinders. There's no way the flywheel nut is right hand thread is there? :msp_unsure: I want to get it off but am always hesitant. Really, are there any saws that have right hand thread flywheel nuts? I should have asked this question years ago!!
Thanks in advance for the advice!
My FarmSaw is. I think many Pioneers are. I put my thumb nail in exposed threads and rotate clockwise. If it pinches against the nut it's right hand. If it comes off the end of the shaft, left.
Yeah some of them are Darcy, but I can't say for sure about that one. Are there any threads exposed on the end of the crank? If you can see the threads you might be able to tell which way they're tipped if you know what I mean.
Odd about that flywheel, I've never seen one go like that.
Odd about that flywheel, I've never seen one go like that.
Good advice on the exposed threads guys. It doesn't work here. The nut is really deep and it seems the crank bottoms out on the threads about half way up the nut. The rest of the nut is not threaded. So no exposed threads. The good news is I figured it out when I realized the recoil engages the weird shaped nut. Starter pulls counter clockwise. The nut must be left hand thread or it would spin off over time. Righty loosey...
I can't believe how bad the flywheel is. I'll have to take some better pictures when I get it off. It's killing me that I don't have a 1" socket...Soon enough.
I can't believe how bad the flywheel is. I'll have to take some better pictures when I get it off. It's killing me that I don't have a 1" socket...Soon enough.
I was hoping Joe would wade in on this as he does a lot of restore work on these saws, I have not had the privilege so far. Good to hear you figured out the nut removal direction. No idea from here on what caused the flywheel damage. Best of luck on this Darcy. Give "Huck", Joe a PM, he has not posted often lately.
Hey Jerry,
I've talked to Joe. He's super busy right now. He is a wealth of knowledge on these saws though. I've seen several videos of him running twins behind his shed. Maybe I should take mine up when I get it running!
huck01955
ArboristSite Guru
IEL flywheel
Hello Jerry your wright I have not been on hear much im working on a supper twin as we speak . Hear is what you need to know Darcy flywheel is 2 pieces welded together every third fin your flywheel is not broke the nut is a left hand thread so turn it to the right my friend and off it will come . And Jerry my friend I hope all is well
Hope this helps Darcy
Hello Jerry your wright I have not been on hear much im working on a supper twin as we speak . Hear is what you need to know Darcy flywheel is 2 pieces welded together every third fin your flywheel is not broke the nut is a left hand thread so turn it to the right my friend and off it will come . And Jerry my friend I hope all is well
Hope this helps Darcy
huck01955
ArboristSite Guru
Hello Darcy hear you go my friend sorry it was not soner .Wish you wear closer I have the socket you need and im sure we could bring your saw to life :msp_w00t:
That's great news on the two piece flywheel Joe!. Mine is ugly when you look at the left side of the fins. That's the way the saw was sitting on the bench. From the right side they seem more in alignment. There are still a few ugly fins no matter which direction you look at them.
I'm missing chunks out of 2 of my fins and one fin is completely gone. There's a crack in the outer ring that aligns with the missing fin. It must have weakened in that area. My picture of the crack in the ring isn't that good. The ring has a bit of a step in it there due to the crack.
The flywheel in your pictures looks as good as new. Does mine look more beat there you're used to seeing? I'd like to upgrade if possible but I think it will definitely run as is without tearing itself apart.
I'm missing chunks out of 2 of my fins and one fin is completely gone. There's a crack in the outer ring that aligns with the missing fin. It must have weakened in that area. My picture of the crack in the ring isn't that good. The ring has a bit of a step in it there due to the crack.
The flywheel in your pictures looks as good as new. Does mine look more beat there you're used to seeing? I'd like to upgrade if possible but I think it will definitely run as is without tearing itself apart.
Hi Joe, thanks for helping Darcy and the rest of us out on this project, we really appreciate your time and knowledge of these saws. I am doing fine myself, busy these days as I have thrown in with a friend to build his subdivision, around 300+ houses on this one.
Hi looking for the idle H and L screws for my S620 would you know if the RA450D has the same Carb or where I can get those screws?? Thanks!
Your saw will have a Tillotson HL22A series carb on it and the H screw will be mounted facing rearward on the right hand side of the carb, only another carb from the 600 series or the model RA will have this type of carb on them. The H and L screws from a 450 are very different from the carb for your saw.
Here is a schematic for the HL series carb, just click on the green link below.
http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HLPartsList.pdf
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