Poulan S6000 flywheel removal

[xtremez]

anybody got any suggestions for the best way to remove the flywheel? I need to get it off so I can replace the kill switch wire. There's 3 small threaded holes but I'm afraid if I use them to try to make a puller they'll strip out. Any help would be appreciated

 

[rupedoggy]

They won't strip out. That's what they are for. Mike

 

[burnses]

danger Will Robinson!....the flywheel is configured for a puller but be very careful not to damage the end of the crank....I pulled the flywheel off my 152 and used a pointed center on the puller and when I gave the puller head a thud with a hammer it spread the first few threads of he crank but I was able save it....so I advise a threaded piece of stock to push against rather than directly on the crank end...good luck

 

[Modifiedmark]

danger Will Robinson!....the flywheel is configured for a puller but be very careful not to damage the end of the crank....I pulled the flywheel off my 152 and used a pointed center on the puller and when I gave the puller head a thud with a hammer it spread the first few threads of he crank but I was able save it....so I advise a threaded piece of stock to push against rather than directly on the crank end...good luck

YES!

I wasn't able to save mine, stupid German over engineering needing a puller that goes down into the extra deep hole on the end of the crank. I didn't even get to the hitting with a hammer part yet and had just started cranking down on it.

That said, the crank the OP posted has already been mangled somewhat.

Here is what mine looked like after I did the same thing with the pointed end puller


Here is what its suppose to look like..

 

[burnses]

yup that taper really holds...the clutch hub taper was a first for me on a saw but I learned....

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yeah what was the point of that? I actually forgot about that, and actually try to forget a lot about those saws..

 

[xtremez]

I guess I'll have to try and fab up some sort of puller. It definitely looks like someone had it off before. The first few threads look boogered. The center hole is solid. Not sure if the last guy put J.B. Weld in there or what. I appreciate all the help

 

[shorthunter]

@Homelite410 may have some advice, send him a PM

 

[Modifiedmark]

When I broke mine, I talked to Lee H about it and he said don't feel bad that he done the same thing once. He also explained how the original Dolmar tool fit over that crank to work without breaking it. The problem is the center hole in the crank is drilled very deeply.

I think he said the tool pushed on the shoulder of the crank and not so much on the end of it. I had to make up something similar to remove the flywheel on the Partner R12's I was working on. I had to turn down a sleeve slim enough to fit inside the flywheel bore and set down on the step on the crank.

So you know, the "S"6000 is a Dolmar 153 but still used a Dolmar 144/152 crank with the large diameter shaft on the PTO side.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I guess I'll have to try and fab up some sort of puller. It definitely looks like someone had it off before. The first few threads look boogered. The center hole is solid. Not sure if the last guy put J.B. Weld in there or what. I appreciate all the help

Look at that picture I posted for the difference in length, yours has definitely been broken too.

 

[Acornhill]

I think i have a NOS flywheel for a 6000 around here somewhere # 90236, i think it is different than the S6000 or at least the # is.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

A regular cheap steering wheel puller worked fine for me. Flip the base around so you have the flat part to back the screws. Spray some penetrating lube in the seam of the flywheel and give it a minute. Leave the flywheel nut on flush with the end while you do it. The cheap puller tip is so soft that it has taken on the shape of those ends. So basically the softness of the tip prevents expansion of the shoulder.

 

[Jacob J.]

In addition to what Jim does, I heat the flywheel a bit before starting in with my O'Reilly's steering wheel puller. My puller kit came with a couple sleeves you can use to protect the crank ends and the sleeves are a softer material.

 

[xtremez]

I applied a liberal dose of heat when I was attempting a couple hillbilly methods before I posted this. I figured that and a couple shots of Kroil can't hurt. I'll have to go to harbor freight and get a steering wheel puller. I figured it'd be too large. Thanks for the heads up

 

[leeha]

The OP's crank is messed up some. But if enough is still left to hold the
flywheel on he would be ok. The factory Dolmar tool has a piece the goe's
over the crank so as to not push on the open hole in the end of the crank.
That's what shatters the crank is when a tapered tool is pushing on the
crank. Those cranks are very brittle and brake easily.


Lee

 

[xtremez]

I did a quick eBay search looking for the Dolmar tool. Figured it'd be a long shot. This series of saw is getting hard to find parts for

 

[leeha]

Parts are extremely hard to find for the Sachs Dolmar 152, 153, and 166 models.

 

[Acornhill]

I just sold a pile of NOS 5500 6000 stuff. As usual know one on here wanted to buy it. Put it on the bay and sold all of it in 1 hour.

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[leeha]

Guess I missed that add.

 

[Acornhill]

It was in the trading post parts thread and still is. Was there for several months. I believe you have purchased stuff from me before. Thank you

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