Round length while cutting

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Cut all the same length...

... if possible for stacking and optimal stove heat. Almost all logs should be about the same length. If you create a few shorts or cookies, so be it. Use those shrimps for campfires or kindling. Having lots of logs that range from 13" to 25" is a PITA.
 
In the end its all about what works for yourself. I cut a couple trees earlier which were down and straight. Ended up I cut them all 18-19 inches just eye balling. If it works for you do it. That's that
 
blacklocst,

READ IT AGAIN! Only this time slow down and really read it.

I do not make a reference cut, I make no marks of any kind... I just use my eye as the bar passes by the log and make a mental note of some existing feature on the log... such as a bug hole, unique piece of bark, stray saw chip, knot, or whatever. When I say "...rotate ¼ turn, hit throttle and cut at “reference” point", I'm cutting all the way through the log... I'm making a bucking cut.

It does not add any time because I find my mental reference spot with my eyes as as I'm lifting the saw (from below the log after the bucking cut) and repositioning for the next cut. The only change you have to make is how you lift the saw after making your bucking cut. As far as muscle effort... how much muscle does it take to rotate the saw to to the left? Or are you thinking I'm laying the saw on its side? Which I'm not doing... I'm turning the saw so the bar is pointing to my left instead of pointing straight away from me, it's still hanging below my hands... just like most people carry the saw across their body front anyway.
 
I gotta say I admire the passion involved in cutting wood to length. I myself tend to cut the small stuff 14' and the big stuff 18". Sure my stack isn't perfect but it still burns. I don't sell much but when I do get an order I have a piece of 16" trim I hold in my hand and after each cut I lay it on the log and eyeball the spot. I do not under any circumstance want to give someone a 15" piece of wood when I am charging them for a 16" piece. Thankfully I don't sell much because i don't really care for measuring. When I cut for myself I envision a new 2x4 studded wall. Each stud is 16" on center and that is where I cut. As a former carpenter it is just what pops into my head. They are close but not perfect. I can see White Spiders technique and I think I will try it. Although with an 18" bar I will need to mark it. I am a right handed cutter so as I finish my cut I turn my saw sideways to the right, bumping my dogs into the face of the log and with a quick glance I see where the mark on the bar lines up with the log. That is my next cut. With practice could take less than a half a second. Just about the time it takes to raise your saw up for the next cut anyways. I like it. I'll try it and if it feels right I'll video it and post back my results.
By the way there are some cool ideas posted on marking logs.
Keep up the good work you crazy wood chip loving log freaks!
-Bushman
 
blacklocst,

READ IT AGAIN! Only this time slow down and really read it.

I do not make a reference cut, I make no marks of any kind... I just use my eye as the bar passes by the log and make a mental note of some existing feature on the log... such as a bug hole, unique piece of bark, stray saw chip, knot, or whatever. When I say "...rotate ¼ turn, hit throttle and cut at “reference” point", I'm cutting all the way through the log... I'm making a bucking cut.

It does not add any time because I find my mental reference spot with my eyes as as I'm lifting the saw (from below the log after the bucking cut) and repositioning for the next cut. The only change you have to make is how you lift the saw after making your bucking cut. As far as muscle effort... how much muscle does it take to rotate the saw to to the left? Or are you thinking I'm laying the saw on its side? Which I'm not doing... I'm turning the saw so the bar is pointing to my left instead of pointing straight away from me, it's still hanging below my hands... just like most people carry the saw across their body front anyway.

Oh, I thought you where 1/4 turning and cutting the log with the tip of your bar in one motion. My mistake but, I still think my way is better InMyHumbleOpionion.
 
blacklocst,

READ IT AGAIN! Only this time slow down and really read it.

I do not make a reference cut, I make no marks of any kind... I just use my eye as the bar passes by the log and make a mental note of some existing feature on the log... such as a bug hole, unique piece of bark, stray saw chip, knot, or whatever. When I say "...rotate ¼ turn, hit throttle and cut at “reference” point", I'm cutting all the way through the log... I'm making a bucking cut.

It does not add any time because I find my mental reference spot with my eyes as as I'm lifting the saw (from below the log after the bucking cut) and repositioning for the next cut. The only change you have to make is how you lift the saw after making your bucking cut. As far as muscle effort... how much muscle does it take to rotate the saw to to the left? Or are you thinking I'm laying the saw on its side? Which I'm not doing... I'm turning the saw so the bar is pointing to my left instead of pointing straight away from me, it's still hanging below my hands... just like most people carry the saw across their body front anyway.

Lets face it Whitespider, it's like playing tennis against the drapes.

Very few understand this premise and refuse to even give it a shot. As I said earlier, although I will correct myself, I have tried nearly every imaginable method of measuring accurately for my firewood cuts and this is by far the quickest most efficient way for me. Going down a log whacking marks is not only inefficient but is also unsafe IMO, takes one slip and hello finger. Ignorance is bliss.
 
Measuring techniques are like opinions, everbody has one and it might stink. This one sure got the emotions flyin. :dizzy:
Lots to learn on this forum, but if you dont like what you read.... keep doin it your own way:cheers:.... or you can just keep:deadhorse:
 
Measuring techniques are like opinions, everbody has one and it might stink. This one sure got the emotions flyin.

Yeah, everyone has one, and if that's what works?... Well...
But emotion? Naw... this thread didn't get my dander up.

The original question was how to keep rounds all the same length while cutting. I started seeing answers that required an addition of equipment and time... most of them adding one, two, or even more extra steps to the job at hand. Well in my mind that's working harder, certainly not smarter; anytime you add equipment, tools, extra steps or time to a job your efficiency level and production rate drops... and at a rapid rate I might add (something I learned working as a Service Manager/Shop Foreman for 22-years, a 10% drop in efficiency = a 20% drop in production). So when I questioned those methods, and explained how I do it without adding any equipment, tools, extra steps or time, simply by just using a modification of what you're already doing, I got flamed because people were reading something into it that wasn't there, such as extra cuts, extra time holding the saw, saw aerobics, etc. (for example, the reply from blacklocst). So, I was just trying help and give a clearer, more descriptive explanation of the method... not trying to prove I was right as Guido accused.

Most of y'all have seen the pictures of my stacks, right? I've posted those pictures several times... 10-cord of oak in five single, 35-ft long stacks... 10-cord, and except for a rare oops, the splits don't vary more than an inch from the average... most don't vary even a half-inch. That's using two different bars, over several weekends of cutting... there ain't no need for me to prove my method works... ain't no need for me to prove anything.

217569d1326636529-udws1-jpg


217570d1326636541-udws2-jpg
 
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stihlrookie,

That is what i was doing all these years making a mark cut with a little throttle up then step and cut.
Saw not spinning and just move with the tip as mark seems way more efficient on time and fuel so next tree i have a new twist on cutting :)

Anything that gets me home earlier for a cold one has got to be a good idea.
And with more money to buy beer Vs fuel it's got to be a brilliant idea LOL
 
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Whitespider,

I will say sorry right away before i even post this but i couldn't resist. :)

So you got some new sort of stove that takes a maximum 4" log?
 
I gotta say I admire the passion involved in cutting wood to length. I myself tend to cut the small stuff 14' and the big stuff 18". Sure my stack isn't perfect but it still burns. I don't sell much but when I do get an order I have a piece of 16" trim I hold in my hand and after each cut I lay it on the log and eyeball the spot. I do not under any circumstance want to give someone a 15" piece of wood when I am charging them for a 16" piece. Thankfully I don't sell much because i don't really care for measuring. When I cut for myself I envision a new 2x4 studded wall. Each stud is 16" on center and that is where I cut. As a former carpenter it is just what pops into my head. They are close but not perfect. I can see White Spiders technique and I think I will try it. Although with an 18" bar I will need to mark it. I am a right handed cutter so as I finish my cut I turn my saw sideways to the right, bumping my dogs into the face of the log and with a quick glance I see where the mark on the bar lines up with the log. That is my next cut. With practice could take less than a half a second. Just about the time it takes to raise your saw up for the next cut anyways. I like it. I'll try it and if it feels right I'll video it and post back my results.
By the way there are some cool ideas posted on marking logs.
Keep up the good work you crazy wood chip loving log freaks!
-Bushman

Really funny comment. I guess this is what I meant when I said I guess. I too find reference points on the log to guide me. But with the size of my fireplace an inch doesn't matter.

I love the passion too.

Whitespider.......that really is a pretty system you have. But from the looks of your roof in the background it's gonna take that much wood to warm a house with the roof falling in. :laugh:
 
Interesting disscussion. I just eyeball everything when I cut by myself. It gets easy after you do it long enough. Most of my logs end up between 17-19". Might get a few oddball lengths every now and then, but not too much. No need for perfection.

When I get help it's a different story. I have one friend who really likes to run his saw so everything ends up short.(14" or less) I have another friend who owns an OWB, he likes to cut long.(24") To get them both cutting the length I like, I bought a Mingo. I mark the first few logs of the day to help get them used to seeing the length I want, then just let them go. Works pretty well.
 
Even if you don't sell wood there are avantages in cutting equal lengths. Its easier to stack and determine the cordage, it makes for more effiecent loading and burn times and it takes up less space in the woodshed.In the case of an outside unit the shorts and grotches can be loaded and burned on weekends or more moderate days where extra time loading is not that big of an issue. Its not that much fun loading when the temps are in the single digits and the wind is hawkin and/or its raining or snowing.
 
Whitespider,

I guess my wife is a comedian also.
She read my post about the new stove type with 4" clearance and said we must have the same stove.
My wife got to love her because it takes a while to register and hand gun in Canada LOL
 
Not to offend anyone, but if you were not on the computer you could be out cutting more wood lol lol
 

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