Air is absolutely more dense in the winter hence the need to retune saws so they don’t burn up. Cold air is harder on lungs plus being bundled up can cause a guy to over do it quickly. Especially things like getting a snowmobile stuck!
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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When the time comes that I can't shovel a driveway ... throw dirt on me!
That's not as bad as mine, it cracked in the first season.
I noodled up the big cypress chunks into nice blocks that can go in the fire neatly. They were unsplittable, or at least not into shapes that would then be stackable. I noticed that some bits were relatively dry already, even though they had been cut down to one-round-on-the-stump only about 6 weeks ago so I am hoping that these will be largely dry before we want to start burning (a sunny 27°C here today @LondonNeil 
).
Cowgirl wants some noodles to mix into the soil in her vege garden, so I have selflessly provided.
). Cowgirl wants some noodles to mix into the soil in her vege garden, so I have selflessly provided.
Redneck snowmobile??
Haul you to Florida
Only -20 today.
Saw an otter out by my garage this morning. Those guys are fun to watch. There are a few around here and another group further down the lake. They find thin ice around rocks and pop up to go above land.
Saw an otter out by my garage this morning. Those guys are fun to watch. There are a few around here and another group further down the lake. They find thin ice around rocks and pop up to go above land.
Toy4xchris
ArboristSite Operative
A few more questions about an aftermarket bar for a Stihl 046. I see a 28" (91 DL) and a 30" (98 DL) listed for Forester bars. Is one more common than the other when buying replacement loops?
I seem to recall someone here mentioning that semi-chisel is better for hardwoods and dirty logs than full chisel? Did I remember correctly? I've always used semi-chisel (I think) because that's what came on the saws.
And did I also recall that someone said sprocket nosed bars shouldn't be used for milling? That hard nosed bars are better?
I'll be using the saw/bar/chain combo mostly for 24"-30" cutting hardwood logs into rounds and then noodling. Occasionally though, I'll be milling a slab or two off some logs using, of course, a ripping chain.
I seem to recall someone here mentioning that semi-chisel is better for hardwoods and dirty logs than full chisel? Did I remember correctly? I've always used semi-chisel (I think) because that's what came on the saws.
And did I also recall that someone said sprocket nosed bars shouldn't be used for milling? That hard nosed bars are better?
I'll be using the saw/bar/chain combo mostly for 24"-30" cutting hardwood logs into rounds and then noodling. Occasionally though, I'll be milling a slab or two off some logs using, of course, a ripping chain.
Just bought a used rear for my 07 Dodge my scrounge truck . The AAM rear rotted away the actual cast not the cover or tubes . Truck hardly used in winter on the road so limited salt exposure. Everything else on the undercarriage is in great shape. I temporarily sealed it JBWeld and coated it with POR15 to use it around the yard . Been told it's a common problem with these rears. New rear is located in PA but came off a southern truck going to get it on Thursday 
Mine flares up in the winter especially when I put on weight
That's crazy, and on an 07, I don't have anything that new
.It drives me nuts seeing a "newer" truck going down the rd with rust holes I could put my fist thru
.Hope your newer one lasts much longer, the rest of the truck too.
You could stick your head through the rust holes on my 04' chevy pickup. Keep your eye out for a Victory Red 6' box, I may need one soon.That's crazy, and on an 07, I don't have anything that new
It drives me nuts seeing a "newer" truck going down the rd with rust holes I could put my fist thru
Hope your newer one lasts much longer, the rest of the truck too.
Thing is the rest of the truck is in good shape.
The rear shock mount rusted off the frame of my 08 Dodge.
Same thing happened to the rear end on a 99' Toyota 4-Runner I used to own. I drained it, cleaned it up inside and out and covered with 3-4 coats of Kitty hair body filler.
Hasn't leaked since but I really dont trust it specially towing 15k pounds.
I think it would be nice to have the 3003 for that very reason, versatility and backup if one gets damaged. I like the standard stihl bars and run them on the stihls, dolmars and huskys, and do the same with the lightweight stihl bars. While I have a few of the stihl lightweight stihl bars I don't feel they are as durable as the Tsumara and the Sugi so I won't use them in any situations where I think I could bend one or smash itThanks yeah that’s a good idea. Been looking into that, sure would be nice to have a bar that would work for either saw and chains the same length. I like tusamara better but looking at a sugi 28” looks like they actually have an extra adjuster hole for use on huskys and I already have the adapter
.If the Sugi has the extra hole in it that would be nice, they aren't easy to drill/grind on, very hard steel.
91dl is more available around here and what I would choose. I guess it wouldn't matter much if you are going to order it online in the future, but it is nice to either have a couple extras on hand in case or to be able to buy them locally if needed.
Did you ever get that saw running.
Semi chisel will hold up longer in any wood, but it also cuts slower so many guys have both as they both have their place. I run semi on my 50cc work saws because I can get 2 tanks thru them without needing to touch them even when I hit the dirt now and then limbing. I find it faster than having to sharpen more often or being more careful(not hitting the dirt), when I'm making money I don't want to be as concerned about sharpen as I make more cutting than sharpening. When I'm cutting firewood I'll run full chisel as it's faster=more fun usually, and I don't mind touching up a chain real quick.
What's funny is on my 24 and longer bars I use all full chisel, they are the ones that get damaged the most hitting things in wood or cutting dirty wood. I try hard not to "cut" dirt, but it does happen and when flush cutting stumps it will happen. Maybe I need to switch all my longer chains over to semi.
Never heard not to use a roller nose for milling and the same for chisel or semi.
91 link chain is far more common, full chisel is just fine in clean hardwood, and will cut much faster. I prefer square file, especially for milling or ripping.
Narrow curf rip chain will also work well for milling, and I did not need a different bar like they said I would.
The Stihl narrow curf rip chain is ONLY sold through Logosol, you can not get it at a Stihl dealer.
Narrow curf rip chain will also work well for milling, and I did not need a different bar like they said I would.
The Stihl narrow curf rip chain is ONLY sold through Logosol, you can not get it at a Stihl dealer.
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