Small In-tree saw

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I've run the Echo 3400's for 7-8 years now. Inexpensive and very reliable. The Husky 335 has more power, but reliability is a major issue in it's current EPA mandated design. If you sink another $200 in the $400+ cost of the Husky, you can have a very nice climbing saw. I can't afford that, so I use the Echo at $250. Mine is 3 years old and running strong.

Many guys like the Stihl 020T but it is also quite expensive and I don't like the feel of it. Lots of power like the Husky 335, a little better reliability but I've seen a lot of junked ones that are 1-2 years old.
 
In the land of Huskys there is talk about a new and improved
335, don't know if it's out yet though.
Otherwise, most people over here seem to prefer the Stihl saw
for in-tree-use. I personnaly don't operate a chainsaw in trees
yet, since I'm still an apprentice.
I believe Husqvarna make better "normal" chainsaws in the same price segment than Stihl, but Stihl has had more time to develop
their in-tree saws, which presumably make them better in that area.
Never heard of the Echo over here.
 
Solo 633

I just got my hands on the Solo 633 this morning, and had a quick look at it...seems pretty good so far...with the 2 year commercial warranty and only about 250.00 usd...will let you boys know what it looks like inside when I get there...should be in the next day or two...
 
You asked for opinions and got 4 different recommendations from 4 different people. Since I'm the Echo fan, I can say that Yes, the tanks are reversed from most saws. They also both use the same cap. But they are clearly marked and it should only be a problem if you have an idiot fueling your saw. (My current 3-year-old Echo has been fueled backwards twice, by two different idiots. Simply dump it out and start over)

My 3400 has the tensioner inboard of the bar, like all the older saws were for a hundred years. It has never been a problem for me. The new ones have the side access adjustment like all the other newer saws. The adjustment screw is beside the two nuts which hold the bar and side cover. Either will adjust the chain tension.

Virtually all the saws made today have plastic. If you want a cast aluminum saw you can buy a used saw made in the '70's. I have no problem with plastic covers. I don't understand the question I guess.
 
can do it,

that is the new Intenz self adjusting bar. I dont much like it, as it seems finicky. The echo dealer can sell you the hardware to adjust the bar normally, or you can use the intenz, it does work.

The 3400 is a good reliable saw, and if you take the innards out of the muffler and open up the deflector with a dremel or grinder, it will cut a lot faster.
 
I share RB's opinion of the Intenz bar -it works but seems to be a solution to a problem that doesn't exist and like a good little bureaucrat it creats its own problems.:( As far as plastic housings are concerned --they are great! Not only are they lighter they are MUCH more impact resistant. I run a Stihl 019T in the tree( I'm in the minority but I like that model) but I think that you will probably be pleased with the Echo-they make good stuff.
 
Oh, if you get the Echo, DO NOT use the factory hang ring to clip the saw on to your belt. Remove it and throw it away, because it WILL break in a short period of time. Either put a better ring in the same bracket, or choke a saw strap around the back of the handle.
Brett bought an Echo for one of his guys a week ago, and the ring broke and the handle got cracked when it hit the concrete. :(
Hopefully it will be warrantied, I haven't heard yet. I use a short 5" saw lanyard choked around the rear handle, haven't ever had any problems with the rubber mounts from hanging the saw this way.
 
Take a look at the Echo 3450.
The oil and gas are switched because the carburtor is in front. A nice arrangement because the freaking carb isn't built into the handle making your wrist all bent out of shape, crooked and full of CTS, you know, like the the stihls. Oh yeah, a gloved hand actully fits into the handle too.
 
If money were not an issue, and if you didn't plan to do any modifications to it, what climbing saw would you recommend?
 
ditto...!!


the hot saw junkie

#8 should be in the mail tonite from Dennis, a Shindaiwa 488.
 
No interest in modifying a saw, but it makes for interesting reading at the chainsaw board.

Nickrosis
 
Dennis...Solo 633 is ok for small limbs but lacks on power!! dont be taken in by the price I bought one about three months ago for £195.00 and tried to trade in for a new stihl but the dealer fell around laughing and asked if i was serious?, so i wrote him a cheque there and then for a new stihl and havent looked back since, and now use the solo for pruning small garden trees, Sorry Dennis but they are sh*"e. Jock.
 
020 vrs. 335

What I like about the 020 is the power.
Take a limb say 6" Dia. to 8" that is 10'-15' long and about say 30'+ feet in the air. Now cut that branch so that is lands on the ground flat. Not springing off the tip and jumping into your client's picture window. The 020 can do this. I am not sure about the 335 Husky
frans
P.S. the older 020 cases are made of magnesium not aluminum
 
I've been using the echo 3400 as a climbing saw.. And someday soon I'll modify the exhaust as per RB's suggestions.. That said I got pretty T'd at echo when a top handle was like $150, just for the part... IMJ they don't handle the abuse as well as Stihls. I compliment the 3400 with a Silky Zubat handsaw...really nice.. And recently picked up a pair of Husky 350s.. I really like the wieght and power it provides for working larger cuts on a takedown.
After working down this Tulip spar with the 350 the other day, I was remembering the days when I felt comfortable using the 084 in a tree.. Seems like a long time ago now... Maybe I should start lifting weights...
God Bless All,
Daniel
 
Best climbing saw

Over the years I've used every small saw made. I personally think the stihl 020 is the best small saw you could buy.When your looking into big saws go with Husqvarna.
 
Im running the solo 633 and havent had any power issues with it.. im running a 14 inch oregon 91 bar and chain on it. and itl eat through 14 inches of oak with out boging out on me.
This however is after the break in on it. At first i wasent sure cuz it was sluggish like any other brand new saw. but once i ran 6 tanks through and dialed it in in runs great and has enough power for anything ive found so far. Not as fast as the 335 or 020 im sure. but a nice little saw for up in a tree. if i have any tricky cuts to make Where the speed is a factor ill be bringin up my 346xp anyways just to be on the safe side.
 
Originally posted by arborman
Im running the solo 633 and havent had any power issues with it.. im running a 14 inch oregon 91 bar and chain on it. and itl eat through 14 inches of oak with out bogging out on me.


Thanx for the info. I just picked up a used Solo 633. I'm looking forward to running it!
 

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