Solo Twin....FINALLY!!!

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Interesting. I'd like to see more of your work in some threads. Don't want to hijack this one.

I have a 300 amp AC/DC inverter tig. I've done lots of aluminum, but never Mag. Is it "stickier", or does it want to run away from you like Aluminum?

In my opinion mag is easier weld than aluminum. There is no oxide skin, you can dip your tungsten in the pool and not have carbon everywhere, it won't stick to the tungsten. The only problem is dealing with mag rot or impurities that are everywhere in the cast that always leave pores. Other than that it's really similar to aluminum as far as weld setting and material pooling.

Inverter tig, better than what I have. I have an 1985ish Lincoln tig 300 old school sine wave. I'm lucky enough to have the big single phase service to run it, 115 amps full throttle.

If brad does send this part to me I'll try to make a video. Maybe I can put the camera behind a blink.
 
I paid a lot more than that last time I bought some via Stihl!
I did some research and it looks like 1 237 330 035 and 1 237 330 036 are fully interchangeable. ⌀18mm, height 21mm (or 22 depending where you measure), 0.18μF.

How are you going to approach fixing the coil?
I appreciate the help and research on those. I just ordered a pair of those. The crank seals are ordered. All of the parts are boxed up and will be headed to Mike tomorrow. Let's get this show on the road! :)
 
i have to weld up ribs at work 1/8 wide and up to 1" high.. layer upon layer. a welder with pulse is the go with 50/50 on/off. steel is alot easier than any ally's thats for sure. ally needs to be religiously clean and a bit of pre heating.
 
i have to weld up ribs at work 1/8 wide and up to 1" high.. layer upon layer. a welder with pulse is the go with 50/50 on/off. steel is alot easier than any ally's thats for sure. ally needs to be religiously clean and a bit of pre heating.

Pulse would be nice, I have to be old school and do it with my foot.
 
So backers are a NoGo on Mag, good to know.

Nice work you posted for sure.

I have a Japanese made TA Arcmaster 300. Adjustable frequency and EN.

No I think backers have their place and have used them before, and sometimes it does make it easier.
Just saying on this you can do a bead on top of bead. I have done them both ways.

I use a Miller synchrowave 250.
 
I've been thinking about upgrading to a inverter. I think the everlast welders are the best bang for the buck. But the old Lincoln keeps on sparking nice arcs.
 
No I think backers have their place and have used them before, and sometimes it does make it easier.
Just saying on this you can do a bead on top of bead. I have done them both ways.

I use a Miller synchrowave 250.
Syncros are great. I had a 250. Didn't have the power to feed it.



I've been thinking about upgrading to a inverter. I think the everlast welders are the best bang for the buck. But the old Lincoln keeps on sparking nice arcs.
Go over to Weldingweb.com and ask about that first. I would never trade that Lincoln out for an Everlast, ever.

I though pulse was a no go with Aluminum. Same with Mg?
 
Go over to Weldingweb.com and ask about that first. I would never trade that Lincoln out for an Everlast, ever.

I though pulse was a no go with Aluminum. Same with Mg?

Pulse is your friend with Al, Mg welds the same.

I'd never get rid of the Lincoln. I'd just get something that works better for intricate work, when I don't need the 300 amp sledge hammer.
 
Pulse is your friend with Al, Mg welds the same.

I'd never get rid of the Lincoln. I'd just get something that works better for intricate work, when I don't need the 300 amp sledge hammer.
People like the AHP a lot. Rebranded Everlast with some upgrades. Around $800 all in, but you get what u pay for.

The TA 186 is the best bang for the buck with reliable brands. I think they got the kinks out of their pedal issues.

This thread has been DERAILED.
 
I got the twin in the mail fri removed all the pieces got to be 15 pieces i never seen anything like it
Found a close match to the red in powder

Started blasting the crankcase you could use air to take old paint off but will need surface for powder to stick Thats where im at so far
More to come when i get down shop again

Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Progress is being made. The clutch cover is repaired and will be heading to Mike tomorrow. I have no reason at all whether to use 3000 FPS or srscarr52. I've had both do work for me, and both have done a great job. This job went to Shaun, for no particular reason. It's hard to believe that much metal was actually missing. It's not any more! Here it is after I filled the pin holes. I can see in the pics that there are still a couple tiny ones. For some reason, it's VERY difficult to fill them. I've applied 4-5 coats an they don't like to fill Besides, they are so tiny that you can hardly see them with the naked eye.

Here it as after filling.
0201151214-L.jpg


0201151214a-L.jpg


0201151215-L.jpg


Chain knicks.
0201151216-L.jpg


0201151216a-L.jpg


The filler didn't need to be in the corner there, but didn't want to mess up the finish trying to sand it out.
0201151216b-L.jpg


0201151215a-L.jpg


0201151218-L.jpg
 

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