Stihl 041AV Rebuild starts

[SpaayDawg]

The crankcase halfs came apart but the bearing stayed on the crankshaft. I put my jaw puller on the bearing and and turned the bolt 2 full turns and then got scared when it didn't move. Is there a hot/cold process I could use? I'm working inside, but it's 10F outside. I don't need the bearing but I'm afraid if I pull the outer race off there wouldn't be enough of the inner to bite on to get off. Help me please!!

 

[stihlboy]

heat the bearing on a frozen crank

 

[blsnelling]

If the outer race pulls off, then I'd guess it's spun on the crank and welded itself on. It should pull right off.

 

[Teddy.Scout]

I have 2 basket cases that are turning into FULL rebuilds of the 041 av's.
I got lucky, the neighbor had a inner puller(had long grab hands) Ya I will get questioned on my nomenclature!!! At least that's what he called it. We reversed the two jaws to grad the bearing by the inner race. On another one we heated it with a propane torch with the 3 jaw puller, just a good(easy) hand tight on the puller nut, and kept it while the heat was put on, till it popped! I assume the bearing was the culprit, just a speck of corrosion will tighten that bearing to crank!

I know others will have a better route, mines a little old school, mixed with some gear heads ingenuity!! LOL

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Come on stihlboy and brad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[blsnelling]

Heat on one part and freezing on the other works for reassembly. These parts have metal to metal contact. They're going to expand/contract at the same time. Also, if your bearing has a plastic cage, you'll ruin it with heat.

 

[SpaayDawg]

heat the bearing on a frozen crank

I don't have a big torch, just a hand held propane one. If I leave it in the garage overnight and then heat the bearing while I'm pulling would that work? I just don't want to damage the crank if it isn't already, ya'know?

 

[blsnelling]

I wouldn't want to put much heat on a crank or a bearing. I've never applied heat to remove a bearing from a crank. Is it rusted?

 

[SpaayDawg]

Crankcase gasket

While I have everyone's attention, I wasn't able to obtain a crankcase halfs gasket. Should I measure the thickness of the old one and make one out of something that thickness? I have a sheet of gasket material from another project, will that work or does it have to be "special" in some way?

 

[SpaayDawg]

I wouldn't want to put much heat on a crank or a bearing. I've never applied heat to remove a bearing from a crank. Is it rusted?

No, no rust. Actually there's bar oil in there with the crank, gasket must have been leaking. I acquired the saw from a dealer that had it for parts, was missing rear handle front handle and muffler when I got it.

 

[blsnelling]

Put that puller back on there and pull that bearing off

Bar lube in the crankcase is likely the result of a failed seal on the pump itself. If it fails, it will leak right into the crankcase.

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Put that puller back on there and pull that bearing off

Bar lube in the crankcase is likely the result of a failed seal on the pump itself. If it fails, it will leak right into the crankcase.

Ya, what brad said!!!!!!!!!!

I am just a spectator. opcorn:

 

[SpaayDawg]

pics to come, promise

Alright, I think I'll leave it overnight and try it in the morning. I'll take some pics and hopefully everything will turn out ok. I just got nervous when it wasn't moving. Thanks to all who replied....

 

[THALL10326]

The crankcase halfs came apart but the bearing stayed on the crankshaft. I put my jaw puller on the bearing and and turned the bolt 2 full turns and then got scared when it didn't move. Is there a hot/cold process I could use? I'm working inside, but it's 10F outside. I don't need the bearing but I'm afraid if I pull the outer race off there wouldn't be enough of the inner to bite on to get off. Help me please!!

Really your using the wrong type of puller. You should be using what most call a bearing splitter. Those jaw pullers barely get hold of the outter race. A bearing splitter gets under the entire bearing and forces it off as you tighen it down and close the jaws on it. Looks like this one in this link:

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-OTC1123-B...rices-html?nxtg=4c860a1c0512-44B1DD964C203CD8

Good luck finding the crankcase gasket for that saw....

 

[blsnelling]

The King has spoken You can get those pullers cheap from HF. I've got a set here.

 

[rms61moparman]

BFH


Mike

 

[SpaayDawg]

Really your using the wrong type of puller. You should be using what most call a bearing splitter. Those jaw pullers barely get hold of the outter race. A bearing splitter gets under the entire bearing and forces it off as you tighen it down and close the jaws on it. Looks like this one in this link:

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-OTC1123-B...rices-html?nxtg=4c860a1c0512-44B1DD964C203CD8

Good luck finding the crankcase gasket for that saw....

There can't be 1/16 of an inch between the crankshaft weight and the bearing though. There's only one spot that I can even grab it with the 2-jaw. I see what you're saying though. The other two saws that I've done the bearing stayed in the crankcase. Was I just that lucky before?

 

[blsnelling]

The puller Tom showed will push the bearing off a little as you pull the halves together.

 

[parrisw]

Those bearing splitters work great!!

 

[THALL10326]

The King has spoken You can get those pullers cheap from HF. I've got a set here.

Sadly his tight bearing problem is minor to finding that crankcase gasket. I got one from some guy Lake referred me to a long while back, Cheapstihlparts I think. He was the only place I could locate one from. Hopefully that man is still in the part biz..