greenskeeper
ArboristSite Operative
my ms250 has 3689 005 0068 26rm3 68 on it, would 26rm (no 3) be the more aggressive chain for this saw?
stihl chain
- Thread starter greenskeeper
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Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
The lack of the 3 means it's a "yellow labeled" chain with a greater chance of kickback resulting from a simpler raker design. It'll still be semi-chisel, which is better in dirty wood, but slower overall and not as "aggressive". 26RS is the full chisel version. You can get it with or without the 3.
greenskeeper
ArboristSite Operative
appreciate the response, so 26rs 68 would fit?
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes sir. And it'll cut a noticeable amount faster. If you haven't already, open up the muffler a little on that 250 as well. Switching to chisel chain, and a muff mod will give your saw a very nice boost.
I prefer semi chisel but I'm always starting with a standing tree in the woods. They cut everything fine green or dead and stay sharp for a long time. If I were cutting up logs in the yard then full chisel all the way. Just my opinion. I do think stihl chains are the best quality though.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was always of the understanding. Full Chisel = clean wood ,Semi Chisel ="Mucky Wood" with small alterations in cutter angle & raker height for hard or soft wood.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Yes, the RM is more aggressive than the RM3, so be aware of kickback as Ryan stated.
I echo the sentiments of the previous posts.
I only buy Stihl chain in full chisel. If I'm cutting dirty wood I'll use one of the cheap Chinese chains I have or semi chisel I acquired from a used saw purchase. But if I needed ultimate durability I'd definitely pick up some RM.
You might be surprised how tough their RS chain is, I'd recommend you give it a try. I personally think RS is more durable than any other mfg's semi chisel.
I only buy Stihl chain in full chisel. If I'm cutting dirty wood I'll use one of the cheap Chinese chains I have or semi chisel I acquired from a used saw purchase. But if I needed ultimate durability I'd definitely pick up some RM.
You might be surprised how tough their RS chain is, I'd recommend you give it a try. I personally think RS is more durable than any other mfg's semi chisel.
greenskeeper
ArboristSite Operative
I will. Been cutting for 25 years but this new saw came with a "safety" chain.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
Personally I thought the Carlton was more durable than Oregon but less durable than Stihl. Didn't cut as fast as either of the other two.
I hit a couple nails in some oak beams with my yellow stihl chain and even with a few bad looking teeth it still chips like new. I hit one with an Oregon chain and the chain was garbage. I have those cheap trilink chains on all my non stihl saws and they seem to stay sharp after a decent amount of cutting.
I have one Trilink chain that mostly sits on an old Homelite and was impressed with it the sharpness and quality.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get a loop of RS, (full chisel)....any you can easily grind the safety "humps" off of your chain, I have done it many times....
Also as someone said, give that saw a muffler mod, doesn't have to be huge, just drill a few holes be hind the deflector...then open the deflector louvers up some with a flathead screw driver....lastly, trim the "limiter tab" off the screw and retune...these 250 really wake up with these simple mods.....
I have a ms250 that's around 6-years old and I like using it, (I have used the hell out of it).....yes I have "pro" model saws, but I still like using the ms250 in wood 16" and under....I have mine set up with a 16" B&C with .50 Oregon lo-pro chain and it flat out rips...I just did a white oak job a few weekends ago and I grabbed my 461 and my 250....I had the 16" bar buried many times and no problems whatsoever, it's a great set-up!!!!
This is how I have mine set-up....I sell them after I rebuild them like this too...this is one I rebuilt..
Also as someone said, give that saw a muffler mod, doesn't have to be huge, just drill a few holes be hind the deflector...then open the deflector louvers up some with a flathead screw driver....lastly, trim the "limiter tab" off the screw and retune...these 250 really wake up with these simple mods.....
I have a ms250 that's around 6-years old and I like using it, (I have used the hell out of it).....yes I have "pro" model saws, but I still like using the ms250 in wood 16" and under....I have mine set up with a 16" B&C with .50 Oregon lo-pro chain and it flat out rips...I just did a white oak job a few weekends ago and I grabbed my 461 and my 250....I had the 16" bar buried many times and no problems whatsoever, it's a great set-up!!!!
This is how I have mine set-up....I sell them after I rebuild them like this too...this is one I rebuilt..
Looks real nice!
Somewhat similar-I have a clean Husky 350 that ended up needing a lot of work so we basically rebuilt the whole thing. With a mild muffler mod she breathes better and is a joy for cutting wood that is under 16". I often grab that saw as often as any of them. Although my muff modded/de-catted Husky 142 with a loop of PS cuts just about as fast and is becoming a favorite too.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
I also have a husky 350 that's becoming a new favorite. Mine's wearing an 18" bar with a loop of RS .325. Like yours Steve, mine had a little work done too... Like a ported NE 346 top end 
. It's a sweet little sleeper saw. I can't wait to have it on a tree job with my buddy's tree service. He'll totally make fun of me for having a homeowner Husky. Then it'll cut right along with his 361 and 362.
. It's a sweet little sleeper saw. I can't wait to have it on a tree job with my buddy's tree service. He'll totally make fun of me for having a homeowner Husky. Then it'll cut right along with his 361 and 362. NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think my 250 has limiters. Did they all have them?
Ever experience any hard starting issues with them when they are hot/warm?
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know I just did a 025 that had no H screw at all
All of the 250 I have done had limiters....you can adjust the carb, but you can only go so far out on the H then it hits the limit stop...I just simply grind it down with the dremel or shave of with razor, whichever is closest at the time...
Personally no problems.....my personal 250 starts at good in 10 degrees as it does in 90....
I have had guys flood them....they were just simply trying to start the saw in choke.....as soon an the saw coughs, they have to move it to half idle....
What starting problems do you run into??
That's a few grades prettier than mine! And mine just has a stock Chinese top end with base gasket delete in addition to the muffler mod (although apparently some now feel that makes it a modified sawI also have a husky 350 that's becoming a new favorite. Mine's wearing an 18" bar with a loop of RS .325. Like yours Steve, mine had a little work done too... Like a ported NE 346 top end
View attachment 593020
) so I am sure yours runs much stronger.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
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