Stihl MS 460 mag chain won't stop

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dlovington

dlovington

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Location
Mundoolun, Australia
OK, here I go with my first post. Please be gentle.
I have a problem with my Stihl MS 460 magnum. I bought it second hand (not running) a few months ago. The saw had a carburetor issue I was unable to set right. I struggle with carb adjustment. I had taken it to the local shop and had it adjusted. All went well for the first few uses.
I am not sure if this is relevant to my problem, but the shop had asked me if the muffler had been modified. They said it was very loud.....and seemed quite happy about that fact. Now my problem.
My saws chain will not stop rotating. I tried to adjust the "L" but there is only a 1/4 turn to work with. So into about 1/8 of a turn the saw shuts off. I tried a different bar (20inch). I put a new rim sprocket on. In my search of this forum I was lead to clutch springs. I changed them with no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner on my clutch area. I found a video were some guy mentioned greasing the bearing. I had been told previously not to grease a stihl bearing. I can stop the movement with a very.....very tight chain.
I had a job today and needed/ wanted a larger saw. I used my 460. It cut very well. I can apply the chain break and sometimes it will continue to run for a very short time. Sometimes applying the chain break will kill it immediately. The saw will not start with the chain break on. Also the chain starts to move as soon as I pull the cord, with break off. Not sure if that matters. This is about everything I can think of.
The Stihl shop is going to charge me $60 to look at my saw. I like them but I like my money better. Any ideas? Cheers, David
 
dlovington said:
OK, here I go with my first post. Please be gentle.
I have a problem with my Stihl MS 460 magnum. I bought it second hand (not running) a few months ago. The saw had a carburetor issue I was unable to set right. I struggle with carb adjustment. I had taken it to the local shop and had it adjusted. All went well for the first few uses.
I am not sure if this is relevant to my problem, but the shop had asked me if the muffler had been modified. They said it was very loud.....and seemed quite happy about that fact. Now my problem.
My saws chain will not stop rotating. I tried to adjust the "L" but there is only a 1/4 turn to work with. So into about 1/8 of a turn the saw shuts off. I tried a different bar (20inch). I put a new rim sprocket on. In my search of this forum I was lead to clutch springs. I changed them with no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner on my clutch area. I found a video were some guy mentioned greasing the bearing. I had been told previously not to grease a stihl bearing. I can stop the movement with a very.....very tight chain.
I had a job today and needed/ wanted a larger saw. I used my 460. It cut very well. I can apply the chain break and sometimes it will continue to run for a very short time. Sometimes applying the chain break will kill it immediately. The saw will not start with the chain break on. Also the chain starts to move as soon as I pull the cord, with break off. Not sure if that matters. This is about everything I can think of.
The Stihl shop is going to charge me $60 to look at my saw. I like them but I like my money better. Any ideas? Cheers, David
Click to expand...
You might be messing with the wrong adjustments the 2 holes close to each other don't mess with those they are for tuning the idle screw is what will help you and that is not limited to 1/4 turn
 
I think I am in the right slot. Isnt the "L" the low speed adjustment? I am not in front of my saw now but, If I turn the screw driver to the right it will come to a full stop in a 1/4 turn. If I turn it to the left I can get one full rotation. If my memory is correct......With good light I can look in the "hole" and see the two adjustments.
 
As mentioned, you're turning the wrong screw. On the carb, (most) there are three screws. One is the H screw, one is the L screw and the third screw (the one you need to adjust) is the idle speed adjustment and controls how far the throttle plate is open. It is a bit removed from the other two.

Pull your sprocket off and lube that bearing. Also clean the inside of the sprocket drum where the clutch shoes rub as a build up there can cause the chain to turn (you may have already done this when you changed the clutch springs)
 
Thanks guys.
When I was young I wanted to be smart.......I'm over it now. I will take a look at it in the morning.
Thank you for all the good information.
I will post my results.
Cheers, David
 
Also, if you cannot adjust the LA screw low enough to get the saw to idle well without the chain spinning, you may have weak clutch springs that need to be replaced.
 
From the ms460 service manual (you'll need a tachometer for this):
1. Adjust engine speed with idle speed screw (LA) to 3,300 rpm.
2. Turn low speed screw (L) clockwise or counterclockwise to obtain maximum engine speed.
If this speed is higher than 3,700 rpm, abort the procedure and start again with step 1.
3. Use the idle speed screw (LA) to set engine speed again to 3,300 rpm.
4. Set the engine speed to 2,500 rpm with the low speed screw (L).
 
3 things, adjust the idle screw and then tune the bottom with the LA screw. Helps with the snap and making it run correctly. Once it is idling fine if the chain is still spinning it is most likely weak clutch springs. You can replace the springs or replace the whole clutch depending on what you want to spend. When taking the clutch off, properly use a piston stop technique and the threads on the clutch are reversed.
 
if the chain moves when pulling the starter rope the sprocket/drum is locked up. when you put in new springs did you check if the holes in the shoes where the spring attach are elongated, if so new springs won't help much.
 
Sounds like a clutch issue and not so much an idle issue. Both of my 460s have gone through clutches and a couple drums. Pull the drum and post some pics of the clutch.
 
OK guys. Thank you for so many fast responses.
1st, I attempted to adjust idle. With no luck. I returned setting to where I found it.
2nd, I replaced the clutch springs. Aftermarket Hyway brand.
I used the saw yesterday. I removed the clutch drum and found three broken clutch springs.
 

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Broken springs equal too much travel. Shoes and drum are worn beyond limits. Time for new parts. I have had good luck with the Farmertec clutches. I use Oregon or Stihl drums.
 
When I replaced the springs I did not remove the shoes. I just pulled the old ones off and stretched the new ones in place. At the time I did not see a need to remove the shoes. Was this OK to do it that way?
 
To answer the spring replacement question. Yes it's as simple as just pulling the old and putting in the new. I haven't ever had a spring fail on a good clutch. Replace the clutch and drum.
 
I will replace the clutch.
I just called my local stihl shop and they want $109 for the three shoes, springs and clips.
Frogfarmer mentioned he has had good luck with Farmertecs brand.
Being a cheap bastard from way back.......are clutches another example of you get what you pay for? What say you?
 

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