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Split fire questions

I am seriously considering a Split fire log splitter and this thread seems to have a lot of comments about that brand.

I'm looking at the 3255 or the 3455. Trying to decide if the extra $400 is worth it for the 4 way splitter. I split a range of wood between 10 inches in diameter up to 20 inches. With the 3455 my concern would be that I'll constantly have to take the 4 way splitter of for the larger wood. Any idea for this level of splitter how large a maple log the 4 way will handle? My wood is 80% maple, 10% white birch, and 10% other like ash or cherry.

I cut all my wood to 16 inch lengths. With the Split fire I would ideally like to get two rounds on each side of the splitter head. With these 16 inch lengths will I need to go to a long stroke, like the 36"?

Thanks in advance from you Split fire experts.
 
JerryNycomm

I would recommend ordering your split-fire with the 4-way wedge if possible. More money, but it allows you to change back and forth to a 2-way very easily. If you get just the 2-way, there is no provision to add the 4-way later. I have a 290 with 4-way and log lifter. Really hard to appreciate the capability and output of Split-fire splitters without seeing one in operation. Absolutely the best in quality and workmanship. Try to find a post about a broken one. Also, when you call them, you talk to the people who build them. That is worth a lot to me.
 
40" rounds

I like doing 40" red oak,rounds with my log lift!! It's like slicing a cake.
I take a slice off and place it on my log lift and then rotate the piece back and forth on the splitter to the size pieces I need. Then split the piece on my loglift. That loglift comes in handy to stack wood on for splitting.:clap:
I love my little 255 split-fire /w loglift and 5hp honda engine. It's probably the best investment I ever made..:cheers:
 
stroke length

From what I understand, The (4) in the 3455 is for 4-way splitter. 3255 can not handle to 4-way wedge. Also, Stroke Length 24"
(30", 36" and 48" lengths are available) Website read that longer lengths are available. I guess you can have them build it longer? I suggest you call split-fire directly about the stroke length. Ken


air19 said:
I am seriously considering a Split fire log splitter and this thread seems to have a lot of comments about that brand.

I'm looking at the 3255 or the 3455. Trying to decide if the extra $400 is worth it for the 4 way splitter. I split a range of wood between 10 inches in diameter up to 20 inches. With the 3455 my concern would be that I'll constantly have to take the 4 way splitter of for the larger wood. Any idea for this level of splitter how large a maple log the 4 way will handle? My wood is 80% maple, 10% white birch, and 10% other like ash or cherry.

I cut all my wood to 16 inch lengths. With the Split fire I would ideally like to get two rounds on each side of the splitter head. With these 16 inch lengths will I need to go to a long stroke, like the 36"?

Thanks in advance from you Split fire experts.
Click to expand...
 
Kleek said:
I would recommend ordering your split-fire with the 4-way wedge if possible. More money, but it allows you to change back and forth to a 2-way very easily. If you get just the 2-way, there is no provision to add the 4-way later. I have a 290 with 4-way and log lifter. Really hard to appreciate the capability and output of Split-fire splitters without seeing one in operation. Absolutely the best in quality and workmanship. Try to find a post about a broken one. Also, when you call them, you talk to the people who build them. That is worth a lot to me.
Click to expand...

How much was your 290 and how long ago did you get it?
 
JerryNycom said:
How much was your 290 and how long ago did you get it?
Click to expand...

I've had it for 5 years or so. Paid a little over $3k for it. It has split around 200 face cords each year with no problems. Only drawback with it is that you need 3 people to really use it up to potential. That said, my wife and I alone can easily run 6 face cord an hour thru it. With that being split small, as we sell our wood to city people using fireplaces.
 
The 4way wedge is really designed for 10-12 inch rounds, so if I am splitting alot of different size logs, than changing might become a pain, no?
 
We run the 4-way all the time, even on huge blocks. Only time I take it off is for elm wood. It will split any size wood with the 4-way, just that elm is too stringy to quarter.
 
i've been looking for a place to purchase either a super split or a split fire as i need something that cycles faster than old hydraulic. on both the sites, it looks like you have to purchase from one location. are these items resold by anyone, i.e. can i pick up one of these units locally or do i need to either go pick it up or pay for shipping?
 
I called a Split-Fire dealer and they quoted me $400 MORE than Split-Fire direct, so I just ordered from Split-Fire and the sales rep (Matt) was very helpful and patient with me. I should have my 3265 sometime next week!:clap:
 
I bought my 290 from Matt, great to deal with. I wasn't sure if they would still sell direct.
 
so if i'm going through a hundred cord a year of white ash and red oak, and i want the log lifter, any idea what i'm looking at for price - or am i better off just calling and talking to matt and seeing what the deal is?
 
log lifter used to be $300. I've bought two of them. You will want it, it serves well as a work table and a lift.
 
I went with the Super-Split for the Tanoak I'm splitting and couldn't be more pleased. I've done about 30 full cords in the past month and a half or so (that includes felling, limbing, skidding, bucking and splitting).

Instead of taking the approach of a log lift (and the added cost of that, as well as having to bend over to roll and place the bucks onto it), we made the decision to make a fairly permanent splitting station and bring all the trees there. We built a 4'x8' sturdy angled feed chute, with a 3/16" steel tray on top with side lips curled to keep bucks on it. It's angled such that a bucked log placed on that slides slowly down to the Super-Split. The feed chute will hold around 1/5 cord of bucks to be split. So for the duration of splitting 1/5 of a full cord (around 12 minutes), I don't have to bend over, move or do anything except reach for the next log and pull it into splitting position on the Super-Split work table.

Next we built a very sturdy bucking table that is 8' wide x 12' long. The table is at the same height as the top of the chute that goes down to the Super-Split. I use the CAT 950 loader to either hold several logs just above this table and buck them into 16 inchers onto the table, or put the logs right on the table and buck them there. The table holds about a cord of bucks. For the most part it's just a matter of rolling the bucks over to the chute with my foot and giving them a boot to load up the chute.

For the few very large bucks (>25" diameter) I pre-bust them in half just once. To do that I just roll them over with my foot to a corner of the table where we have our old hydraulic splitter mounted horizontally and level with the table surface. The buck rolls into that. I split once and both halves then slide down the chute to fill it up.

In short, because I have the 950 loader to lift the logs initially (one could do this with a tractor and FEL, or a variety of other lifting tools) from beginning to end I never lift anything, including not lifting or throwing the splits. The Super-Split work table is the perfect height so I'm never bending over when splitting. The splits fall off the end automatically into a large cart that is emptied occasionally. (Next year I'm getting a conveyor).

Tanoak is not generally super-knotty or gnarly so the Super-Split is incredibly fast. By myself I can do a cord in about an hour and a half, with someone helping (pushing new bucks off the table into the chute, and occasionally carting off the splits to a dump-pile) it's around an hour to split a full cord... while almost never having to bend over. I split pretty small too.

I'll post pics when I get the digital camera fixed.

In short, if someone has a loader or a tractor with an FEL, and is a bit handy with lumber and a hammer and saw, a feed chute and bucking table eliminate the need for a log lift and eliminate the need to bend over at all.
 

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