Thanks Hurricane Sandy - Need suggestion

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I made the recommendation for the 562xp before. Now, after reading a couple pages of choices, I still stick wit my original recommendation.

I can't see how you could go wrong with an Auto tune or M-tronic saw in this situation. The 562xp can hang with most 70cc saws. You can even mod the muffler and it will self adjust itself to it. It has plenty of grunt to handle some big wood if need be. It is a pro saw and will last you forever. It's in your budget too. Pair it up with a 24" bar and yo'll have yourself a heck of a saw.
The 365 would be my second choice, but I think you would be better off with an auto tune saw. It is a very user friendly saw IMO. Nice and light and plenty of power.

I agree with the others about the protective equipment. At the very least, get a pair of chaps and a good helmet. You really need to have that stuff. Some earplugs and safety glasses also.
 
The 562 will be a little lighter than the 365 but with about the same power. It may not have the torque of the 365 but will be lighter and more nimble. The outboard clutch can be a problem if you get the saw pinched and can't get enough slack to remove the powerhead.

Make sure to pick up some wedges and a decent ax to use to drive the wedges in while bucking. Wood under tension can move a lot and pinch bars quickly.

I think long bars are more prone to being pinched and will have more push back when cutting with the top of the bar. I know a 20" on a hot 70cc saw and an 8 pin is a lot faster kick back than a 90 cc saw and a 41" bar. Longer bars will keep the operator farther away from the wood when cutting tangled compressed trees.
 
Why not rent a saw from Home Depot and purchase some PPE? Also hire some help and save money for the saw you really want/give yourself time to research more. Also will let the prices drop off. Just a thought.
 
Why not rent a saw from Home Depot and purchase some PPE? Also hire some help and save money for the saw you really want/give yourself time to research more. Also will let the prices drop off. Just a thought.

The guy no longer needs a saw immediately as he said he had someone clean up the stuff blocking his house this is his semi longterm purchase I assume
 
I think this is some excellent advice.

You don't want to rush that major a purchase if you can help it and GS is right, you might get a really good deal after the cleanup from someone who bought it just for the cleanup.

I've bought two saws just like this. A lot of people don't even get through their cleanup. They just get the chain dull, cannot figure out how to file it properly, then realize a new chain costs money. And then they decide to sell the saw and pay someone to finish the job.
 
A good bet

nmurph just posted up above he is rebuilding a 365 into a 372. <---that saw, right there. That will do any conceivable saw work you'll ever need to do as to storm clean up and firewood. He always has great prices on his saws he sells through the classifieds here (note he is a site sponsor). Private message him through the site here and work out something.
 
I have 3 acres and I am situated next to neighbors whose trees often fall onto my property. I think I am in a similar situation
as you. I recently decided on an ms261/20" with 3 new files, a file handle, a six pack of stihl ultra (extra year of warranty with this deal) a nice hands on demo by the Stihl dealer and out the door for 599.00. It is the saw I use the most with trees 12in to 36in.I would avoid anything not a pro-grade if for no other reason but the vibration insulation of the prograde saws.
In your case I would enlist the help of friends for dropping and handleing the 40 inchers.You might want to checkout selling the trunks to a mill...it all depends on what they are?
I would also plan on getting a small saw next (30cc) or even just an electric chain saw. I say this because you are a homeowner.
I doubt if you have access to a wood chipper (yet) and I am pretty sure you wont just be leaving the tree tops lay . You will need to
be cutting up all those small branches. Holding up a 50cc shoulder high to cut the limbs and branches will get old really fast.Holding
up a 60 or 70 ccer will be even more tiresome.
I use an electric chain saw for cleanup often simply because the task is time consumeing and I dont want to leave a gas chain saw idleing all day long. (Also ,I dont need to care if the neighbors are awake yet on a saturday morning with an electric.)
You will need gloves,eye protection,and hearing protection at a minimum.
I have no experience with any dealer but Stihl (mine was great).......but I would avoid buying a primary saw from a big box store until you
really know what youre doing OR if its a disposeable saw. This is what they are best at.....throwaway tools.
 
Not new...

Do you have protective equipment already, if not, you should figure that into your budget.

A pro 50cc saw will fit most people's needs, look at the 261, 346xp, 550xp, or even the Dolmar 5105. They are all good and you can get well within your budget (though I am not sure of the retail price of the 550).

I think this as good as it gets.
If you are new to saws then your back will be to, and the light weight of a 50cc machine will help you in the long run. I will recommend that you of corse read the owners manual that comes with the new saw you purchase. ms 261, Husky 346 (if you can find one) or 550........Or go to a big box store and buy a Husky 455 Rancher. Definitely buy some good boots and gloves, plan on buying heavy pants or chaps, and a hard hat with a face screen if you can fit it into your budget. I wear ear plugs now for everything because you can't get it back once its gone (cheap anyway).

I further suggest spending a day with a reputable tree man if you can find one to take you in and watch, watch, watch. See what they do when saw binds or limbs are hanging an odd way. A fallen tree can have 1000's of pounds of potential energy stored in a limb under strain and this can make a easy afternoon of sawing a hard ride in a flashy rig to the E-room. BE CAREFUL, this can't be stressed enough.


BEEEEEE CAREFUL, I have been using saws for 20 years or so and my dad still talks to me about safety and how much danger there is involved when he knows I am going to cut something of any size. My rule (just me) is to never fall a tree (bigger than 40' or so) without a spotter, even if its just a neighbor with a phone.
 
Busy BUSY night last night. I haven't forgotten the thread, I just didn't expect this much response. I'm on page 2 right now and will be reading through as the day progresses and work allows.

I have a buddy of mine bringing his 290 over to help me cut up the tree's. I told him I'd buy him some chains and oil and he's going to let me use it. I think this will help me get my feet wet and then we'll see where we go.

I have both Stihl and Husky dealers very close to me. I spoke to the Husky guy last night and he recomended the 460 to me. The Stihl guy I'm going to go talk to today.
 
Chaps and a hardhat with face shield. IMO big saws will kick back harder, not easier, but that added HP, along with the bigger bar will throw the bar at you harder, and the extra weight means when its coming at you, its more weight to hold back.

Don't forget protective boots with steel toe caps! :msp_wink:

Anyway, storm cleanup is among the more dangerous things you can do with a chainsaw - and your head is the most important PPE!
 
Protective equipment will be purchased too. I really don't feel like hurting myself that's for sure.

@s219

Lets say I go with a 440 or 441, and just get a 20" bar, would that be going into it slow/safely? I really dont want to go back and buy a second saw. I can see how it would be beneficial though. I do have some friends with stihl 290's that would probably let me test them out to start, but I'm not one to borrow someone saw, have bad luck and break it and then have to buy them a new one.

I run 20" bars on my 440s/441s they cut great and they are cheaper to replace. I only switch out after i cut all i can cut than i switch to a longer bar & chain for large wood....
You can find used saws if you look. I bought 2 used 440s 1 for $260 at pawn shop (realy good deal) and $450 used and rebuilt from my local saw shop. You may need to look book you can save money on used saws, if they blow up you can have them rebuilt and still be cheaper than new in most cases and they can be resold after you finish your job, that will keep you under budget.:rock:
 
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Here's where I'm at

My tree guy came out and cut the only that was still up in the air. It was the only one that was dangering the house. While he was there, he cut up the big tree for me at no extra charge (what a guy!). So now all I have are some 20'+ that I need to clean up. These are estimates of course, but nothing massive and they're already on the ground.

I'd like to elaborate on the uses of this saw. I do not plan on downing any tree's right now. I'm just using this to clean up stuff already down. I will be buying chaps, helmet with a face guard and ear protection. I have gloves and steel toed boots.

What do I want? I think a 20" bar should be fine for what I want, but I would eventually like something with a 24" bar. I would like the ability to have a bigger bar just incase I go do some clean up or get free wood from a really big tree. The Husky dealer is by far closer to the house, but the Stihl dealer isn't that far away. I'm really leaning towards a Husky 365, but can appreciate what everyone has been saying about the big CC saws and saftey. I'm an outdoor guy, but by no means a logger. I'm all of 5'9" and 200lbs, so I think I should be able to handle some kick back. I think the first few might freak me out a bit, but I would suspect that's normal.
 
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My tree guy came out and cut the only that was still up in the air. It was the only one that was dangering the house. While he was there, he cut up the big tree for me at no extra charge (what a guy!). So now all I have are some 20'+ that I need to clean up. These are estimates of course, but nothing massive and they're already on the ground.

I'd like to elaborate on the uses of this saw. I do not plan on downing any tree's right now. I'm just using this to clean up stuff already down. I will be buying chaps, helmet with a face guard and ear protection. I have gloves and steel toed boots.

What do I want? I think a 20" bar should be fine for what I want, but I would eventually like something with a 24" bar. I would like the ability to have a bigger bar just incase I go do some clean up or get free wood from a really big tree. The Husky dealer is by far closer to the house, but the Stihl dealer isn't that far away. I'm really leaning towards a Husky 365, but can appreciate what everyone has been saying about the big CC saws and saftey. I'm an outdoor guy, but by no means a logger. I'm all of 5'9" and 200lbs, so I think I should be able to handle some kick back. I think the first few might freak me out a bit, but I would suspect that's normal.

The price on the 365 really jumped, you are at the same price point of a 562. Since that's the case I'd me looking at a 359 or see what nmurph has kicking around. There is zero point to buying a 365 over a 562 unless you found a dealer who hasn't moved to the new pricing yet. At that point it should be about $100 less.

Oh, and that 359 is a nice saw that will run all day long with a 18 or 20" bar and will pull a 24" under part time duty.
 
The price on the 365 really jumped, you are at the same price point of a 562. Since that's the case I'd me looking at a 359 or see what nmurph has kicking around.

That being the case, I agree. No sense tying up too much capital if there is no need, and a good used saw for occasional use would be ideal.

For Huskies I too would agree with contacting nmurph, he has a not unwarranted faithful following here. Otherwise, a Stihl 361 would be a good choice.

Myself, I still think that a 6400 or 6421 would be the way to go.
 
1) - I'll try to get in touch with nmurph.

2) - Since I'm learning, why is the 562 better than the 365? Is it a weight ratio thing? Is one not a pro-grade?

3) - 359 does appear to be a really nice option as well. Especially for the price. I'd be saving almost $200. I'm willing to spend the extra money if it's well worth it though.

4) - if I went 562, what about the stihl 362 on the other side of the brand? This seems to be the competative saw.
 
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Already alot of excellent advice here. I would add only to ask your buddy to teach you how to read springpoles and tension in downed or twisted trees. Also about removing heavy limbs and log roll. These things take time to learn and he might shorten that curve and prevent an injury for you.

Bill
 
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