the all aussie dribble thread!

Rugged made
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
KiwiBro said:
Know what you mean - it's effortless to feed and a much quieter hum. Certainly don't mind taking a long time to grind beyond the various predominantly nail-induced damage. I haven't had time to check the grit level on the other disc. Might get lucky and it's aggressive.
What do you guys do with all your shavings? I've just finished making about 300LM of TG&V sarking from 6x1 lumber I milled a while back. I've a wee benchtop 13" generic thicknesser, 6" jointer, and makita plunge router. Created about 2m3 of shavings.

Also, noting the noodled rounds, wouldn't you guys have more than enough volume to justify a grunty splitter with log lift? That said, there's something to be said for staying fit splitting wood manually.
Click to expand...
if i live near you id buy them off you for $5 for 20L bag for my chicken coops and horse stable.
 
KiwiBro said:
Know what you mean - it's effortless to feed and a much quieter hum. Certainly don't mind taking a long time to grind beyond the various predominantly nail-induced damage. I haven't had time to check the grit level on the other disc. Might get lucky and it's aggressive.
What do you guys do with all your shavings? I've just finished making about 300LM of TG&V sarking from 6x1 lumber I milled a while back. I've a wee benchtop 13" generic thicknesser, 6" jointer, and makita plunge router. Created about 2m3 of shavings.

Also, noting the noodled rounds, wouldn't you guys have more than enough volume to justify a grunty splitter with log lift? That said, there's something to be said for staying fit splitting wood manually.
Click to expand...

Noodle the rounds so they are lighter to pick up from there they go up the back into the pile of rounds it doesn't take a very big round to weigh about 40+kg in timber like Ironbark noodling them at the least makes them more manageable, making firewood out of it is recovery nothing gets wasted sawdust offcuts it all gets sold a brickworks buys our timber flitches/offcuts to fire their kiln.
We have a splitter the old man made it about 20 years ago, worn out one 20hp Honda the new one has heaps more power and uses less fuel. no log lift just old fashioned hard work we usually hire some poor bugger fresh outta high school and put em on the splitter when the pile gets big few months work splitting, some don't last a day and some like how strong and fit they get and last to the end there the ones that will go far in life I make sure to tell em they did a bloody good job and are a worker..don't worry I've done my fair share I dont even want to add up the hrs splitting Ive done over the years haha.
Ah and the shavings go into the sawdust heap via a blower, vegetable growers use it in making compost.

1 (2).JPG 2 (2).JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG 5 (2).JPG 044.JPG
 
Any of you guys know much about using decking that is unseasoned? I was told the old timers used to take it straight off the mill but had a special way of fixing it that allowed for the subsequent movement and drying. But every way I can think of leads me to worry about it cupping while it is air drying. Maybe I was spun a yarn?
 
KiwiBro said:
Thanks. How do you get the noodled wood to the pile?
Click to expand...
A big steel bin and use a forklift to pick the bin up, throw the rounds in it and tip em out up the the heap. Also use a loader with bucket but only when there are no workers around is way too easy to flatten someone in a big machine in a tight working space..

Made a vid this arvo of our splitter I'm a bit rusty haha. It's nothing special but gets the job done and its not even working in this vid. Has some balls definitely needs respect big knotty rounds will explode! not for the faint of heart we don't just let any clown use it that for sure.







When you compare it to a back breaking slow POS like this it aint too bad really..

 
KiwiBro said:
Any of you guys know much about using decking that is unseasoned? I was told the old timers used to take it straight off the mill but had a special way of fixing it that allowed for the subsequent movement and drying. But every way I can think of leads me to worry about it cupping while it is air drying. Maybe I was spun a yarn?
Click to expand...

With our decking we cut the raw timber well oversized like 4x1 then strip stick (overseas they call em stickers? or some **** here we call em strip sticks 1x1) the timber in packs put em out to air dry for a year or two then dress it into decking..
IMHO to eliminate any movement/swelling/shrinkage in any timber?? that can only be achieved with kiln dried timber...
Take some air dried timber make something elaborate then move it indoors with a fireplace/central heating and see what happens? shocking movement at best!..
Now decking has a fair leeway being outdoors and all but air dried decking I'd sure as hell not be putting any kind of guarantee on it that's for sure.
We used to do hardwood flooring ( send it out to get kiln dried then get it back and dress into flooring) had to get out of that crap you pretty much have to guarantee it will never move even in ten years time if it moves you replace no ifs or buts that's how it is nowadays...Just my 2c and don't know if that's of any help...
 
rogue60 said:
With our decking we cut the raw timber well oversized like 4x1 then strip stick (overseas they call em stickers? or some **** here we call em strip sticks 1x1) the timber in packs put em out to air dry for a year or two then dress it into decking..
IMHO to eliminate any movement/swelling/shrinkage in any timber?? that can only be achieved with kiln dried timber...
Take some air dried timber make something elaborate then move it indoors with a fireplace/central heating and see what happens? shocking movement at best!..
Now decking has a fair leeway being outdoors and all but air dried decking I'd sure as hell not be putting any kind of guarantee on it that's for sure.
We used to do hardwood flooring ( send it out to get kiln dried then get it back and dress into flooring) had to get out of that crap you pretty much have to guarantee it will never move even in ten years time if it moves you replace no ifs or buts that's how it is nowadays...Just my 2c and don't know if that's of any help...
Click to expand...
Thanks. Interested in accommodating not eliminating, movement.

Wondering if there is an accepted way of fixing green decking that leads to OK results. Might be one of those suck it and see things. I'm thinking flat sawn 4x1 saligna fixed tight with grain that has the bark side of tree facing down.

Not sure of two fixing screws is going to cause splits as boards dry. Wondering if could use one then adding another screw later on once dried a bit, but before it cups.

Want to leave it RS. Wondering if could get away with a big arris on the top corners, no thicknessing and just accept it's not going to have dead-even top surfaces. Should be able to get it to within a few mm, but what happens if boards shrink radially different amounts and the small height differences end up getting too much after a while? Sink the screws in a bit more then hit it with a real course-grit disc on a floor sander? I dunno.

Might have to just suck it and see.
 
rogue60 said:
A big steel bin and use a forklift to pick the bin up, throw the rounds in it and tip em out up the the heap. Also use a loader with bucket but only when there are no workers around is way too easy to flatten someone in a big machine in a tight working space..
Click to expand...
Thanks.
Could you use the loader, or make a bucket for the forklift to drive into the pile of rounds, lift and drop on a sloping table/hopper that feeds into the splitter? Would eliminate the noodling for all but the biggest rounds, and the heavy lifting. Would still need to manhandle the larger rings on the splitting table though.

rogue60 said:
Click to expand...

Thanks. Thought of a foot peddle or auto cycle? What about a small out-feed conveyor (although the wood may not dry so well if piled too high)? Like the central spike on the blade. Would concentrate the splitting forces. Does it come off and the blade is used on the easier wood? Thought of tweaking the blade to get a few splits per stroke using a design similar to how the Whitlands Rex splitter blade works? How about a hole in the table for the spike to go right through the wood to help reduce the cling-ons.
 
KiwiBro said:
Thanks. Interested in accommodating not eliminating, movement.

Wondering if there is an accepted way of fixing green decking that leads to OK results. Might be one of those suck it and see things. I'm thinking flat sawn 4x1 saligna fixed tight with grain that has the bark side of tree facing down.

Not sure of two fixing screws is going to cause splits as boards dry. Wondering if could use one then adding another screw later on once dried a bit, but before it cups.

Want to leave it RS. Wondering if could get away with a big arris on the top corners, no thicknessing and just accept it's not going to have dead-even top surfaces. Should be able to get it to within a few mm, but what happens if boards shrink radially different amounts and the small height differences end up getting too much after a while? Sink the screws in a bit more then hit it with a real course-grit disc on a floor sander? I dunno.

Might have to just suck it and see.
Click to expand...
I sawed & built a 66m2 deck out of green Rough sawn SBG a 6 months ago, I pencil rounded the he top corners, laid them tight & only put one nail in each board, the nail was at 1/3 distance in from the edge, the owner is going to put the final fixing nail in when he gets around to it, we had a long hot dry summer & within 6 weeks they had shrunk fully in position, it looks rustic with the gaps not exactly even but that's what the owner wanted & is really happy with the end result.
Somebody else saw the deck & now wants the same thing.
Inter
 
KiwiBro said:
Thanks.
Could you use the loader, or make a bucket for the forklift to drive into the pile of rounds, lift and drop on a sloping table/hopper that feeds into the splitter? Would eliminate the noodling for all but the biggest rounds, and the heavy lifting. Would still need to manhandle the larger rings on the splitting table though.


Thanks. Thought of a foot peddle or auto cycle? What about a small out-feed conveyor (although the wood may not dry so well if piled too high)? Like the central spike on the blade. Would concentrate the splitting forces. Does it come off and the blade is used on the easier wood? Thought of tweaking the blade to get a few splits per stroke using a design similar to how the Whitlands Rex splitter blade works? How about a hole in the table for the spike to go right through the wood to help reduce the cling-ons.
Click to expand...
Yes there is lots you could do to make it more efficient but we dont do much firewood its only to get rid of waste from the mill, the spike thing is actually a blockbuster axe head. You have to be careful not to hit it with the back of your hand as it self sharpens to razer sharp.
047.JPG
 
Bwildered said:
I sawed & built a 66m2 deck out of green Rough sawn SBG a 6 months ago, I pencil rounded the he top corners, laid them tight & only put one nail in each board, the nail was at 1/3 distance in from the edge, the owner is going to put the final fixing nail in when he gets around to it, we had a long hot dry summer & within 6 weeks they had shrunk fully in position, it looks rustic with the gaps not exactly even but that's what the owner wanted & is really happy with the end result.
Somebody else saw the deck & now wants the same thing.
Inter
Click to expand...
Thanks. Part of the reason to leave it rough sawn is I'm going for the rustic/character/less-than-manicured look. Uneven gaps will just add to that look, provided none are so big small pets fall through.
 
Well, I've done every planer, jointer, plane, thicknesser knife, every chisel I can find and this new wet stone grinder is too much fun to stop now. Even tried to resurface a chainsaw bar with the 60-grit disc. Everything is so sharp it almost draws blood just by looking at it. Might see if I can get some flush cutting/straight router bits on it. Even the kitchen scissors might end up on this thing. Hmm, might have a look at the mower blades if get time...
 
Am off to Canada soon, for a few weeks, if any of you need anything brought back and sent over from NZ. Am considering grabbing myself a lewis winch but that's about it as far as gear goes. So should have some room for other gear.
 
KiwiBro said:
Am off to Canada soon, for a few weeks, if any of you need anything brought back and sent over from NZ. Am considering grabbing myself a lewis winch but that's about it as far as gear goes. So should have some room for other gear.
Click to expand...

Oh nice enjoy the holiday!

Maybe a strong cup of Tim Hortons? haha
 

Similar threads

svk
Sold Craftsman 3.7 project
Replies
8
Views
550
svk
svk
H
Ultrasonic cleaner experience
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
4K
sean donato
sean donato
F
Bucking spikes For Husqvarna 450
Replies
8
Views
887
Firewood
F
Hipastore
Limited Opportunity! Hipa want to invite 30 people try our chainsaw chain, for free
Replies
2
Views
2K
Hipastore
Hipastore
Glad2BNico
Hello from Wisconsin
Replies
1
Views
169
stihlaficionado
stihlaficionado

Latest posts

Back
Top