Trouble shooting a splitter motor problem.

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sb47

sb47

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As many of you know I have 2 countyling 40t splitters that are exactly alike. One runs just fine and the other will sometimes start but after a few min it will shut off like it is running out of gas. I cleaned out the fuel thank and cleaned the carb. and it still wont run more then five min then shuts off. I thought It might be a carb issue, but I can take the carb off the non running splitter and put it on the running one and it runs fine. I put the good carb on the non running one and it will not even start.
I swapped out the plug and that made no difference. I checked the float bowl and it is getting fuel. Both carbs work on the running splitter but nether one works on the non running one. I checked the oil level and thats not it. Something is causing the one not to run but I have checked everything I can think of and nothing is working on the non running splitter. I checked all electrical plugs and the seem fine. So both carb work on one splitter but not the other so I'm sure its not a carb issue. Any ideas. Thanks
 
I did pull the flywheel and checked the magneto and it looks fine and I even readjusted it. Could the stater (coil) have gone out? Not much else that can go wrong on a small motor. Unless the oil level sensor has gone bad and it thinks it's low on oil. Flywheel Key is not sheared off so it should still be in time.
 
sb47 said:
I did pull the flywheel and checked the magneto and it looks fine and I even readjusted it. Could the stater (coil) have gone out? Not much else that can go wrong on a small motor. Unless the oil leve sensor has gone bad and it thinks it's low on oil.
Click to expand...
If it has a low oil shut off switch try taking the wire off that. Coil maybe bad.
@dmb2613
 
sean donato said:
The coil is easily checked with a adjustable gap spark tester. The low oil shutoff is can be disconnected from the system for testing as well. Just unhook the wires going to it.
Click to expand...
I checked the spark with my spark tester and it is getting spark. I disconnected the kill switch and still nothing. I did recheck the oil and it seemed a little high so I let a little drain out and it started right up.
It may have a oils sensor that protects it form being over filled. But I did all those things before and it didn't work. I just ran it about 30 min to see if after it gets hot it shuts down, so far so good. I'm not holding my breathe just yet cause I have had it running before for a short time then it shut off.
I don't want to disable the oil sensor because that protects the motor if it get low on oil.
I'm gonna move over to a new spot and see how long it runs. And just for clarification it is on level ground.
 
sb47 said:
I checked the spark with my spark tester and it is getting spark. I disconnected the kill switch and still nothing. I did recheck the oil and it seemed a little high so I let a little drain out and it started right up.
It may have a oils sensor that protects it form being over filled. But I did all those things before and it didn't work. I just ran it about 30 min to see if after it gets hot it shuts down, so far so good. I'm not holding my breathe just yet cause I have had it running before for a short time then it shut off.
I don't want to disable the oil sensor because that protects the motor if it get low on oil.
I'm gonna move over to a new spot and see how long it runs. And just for clarification it is on level ground.
Click to expand...
You just disconect them for testing. Pretty easy to check with a meter. Haven't experienced one with a high level cut off, but would be a good feature. One of the biggest issues we would get for "warranty" on new wood splitters was the customer not shutting the fuel off and the carb draining the tank into the crankcase when they towed it. That sensor working low and over full would be a good feature.
 
sb47 said:
I checked the spark with my spark tester and it is getting spark. I disconnected the kill switch and still nothing. I did recheck the oil and it seemed a little high so I let a little drain out and it started right up.
It may have a oils sensor that protects it form being over filled. But I did all those things before and it didn't work. I just ran it about 30 min to see if after it gets hot it shuts down, so far so good. I'm not holding my breathe just yet cause I have had it running before for a short time then it shut off.
I don't want to disable the oil sensor because that protects the motor if it get low on oil.
I'm gonna move over to a new spot and see how long it runs. And just for clarification it is on level ground.
Click to expand...
So disable the sensor immediately when it dies next time and see what happens.
 
I recently had a similar problem with a pressure washer... I figured out that the throttle was moving due to vibration and once it reached a certain point it would quickly move to the kill position. The short term solution was to put a spring clamp on the throttle lever.* Long term solution will be to replace the throttle.
1672619796356.png
*Probably the permanent solution in the scheme of things. 😉
 
sb47 said:
As many of you know I have 2 countyling 40t splitters that are exactly alike. One runs just fine and the other will sometimes start but after a few min it will shut off like it is running out of gas. I cleaned out the fuel thank and cleaned the carb. and it still wont run more then five min then shuts off. I thought It might be a carb issue, but I can take the carb off the non running splitter and put it on the running one and it runs fine. I put the good carb on the non running one and it will not even start.
I swapped out the plug and that made no difference. I checked the float bowl and it is getting fuel. Both carbs work on the running splitter but nether one works on the non running one. I checked the oil level and thats not it. Something is causing the one not to run but I have checked everything I can think of and nothing is working on the non running splitter. I checked all electrical plugs and the seem fine. So both carb work on one splitter but not the other so I'm sure its not a carb issue. Any ideas. Thanks
Click to expand...
Inside the fuel tank. You have a very small fuel filter. You have water accumulated around the screen. You need to disconnect the fuel tank and dump it upside down and disconnect the fuel line. And get the tank clean. I had the same thing.

At the bottom of the carb you can pull the screw and drain it and check for rust.

Just about positive you have water preventing fuel from flowing
 
Check your valve gap! Motors out of spec will often run cold and then die when they warm up and the gap expands way beyond function. It would explain why neither carb will run it properly. Also check to make sure the gasket between the carb and head seals properly.
 
its the oil sensor, they go bad like often. And they do that thing where they run for a wee bit, then die, or just not run at all, so you can check for spark, and it will have spark, but as soon as it starts to warm the oil up, game over.

Pull the wire, they usually have a butt connection right by the on/off switch, because its a known problem.

Its more then likely a splash type oil system, so as long as it has oil the motor will be fine, just check it before starting religiously
 
sand sock said:
Inside the fuel tank. You have a very small fuel filter. You have water accumulated around the screen. You need to disconnect the fuel tank and dump it upside down and disconnect the fuel line. And get the tank clean. I had the same thing.

At the bottom of the carb you can pull the screw and drain it and check for rust.

Just about positive you have water preventing fuel from flowing
Click to expand...
Nope, already did that, If you read the thread you would have seen that I already did that.
 
Been running fine since I let some of the oil out. Ran it for 2 hours yesterday with no issues.
Like I said I checked everything before I posted. Thanks for the help but it seems somre of you posted without reading the whole thread.
 
GrizG said:
I recently had a similar problem with a pressure washer... I figured out that the throttle was moving due to vibration and once it reached a certain point it would quickly move to the kill position. The short term solution was to put a spring clamp on the throttle lever.* Long term solution will be to replace the throttle.
View attachment 1045407
*Probably the permanent solution in the scheme of things. 😉
Click to expand...
It has an electric kill switch. The throttle has nothing to do with shutting the unit down.
 

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