Used Dolmar PS-6800 Ideas?

[tallguys]

Does anybody have any opinions on this saw being a good one or not. All I can gather is that its the newer version of the 120(120i?) but is it a solid and capable saw? Since its obviously used are there any trouble spots to look out for? Thanks!

 

[pioneerguy600]

In my books they are still a great saw, built on a time proven chassis from heavy duty components. I worked the Sachs Dolmars professionally from 1985 to 2000, the 116, 116Si . 120S and the 6800 were my main saws during this time. They may be a little heavy by todays standards but mine are no slower than comparable cc saws of modern design.

 

[w8ye]

I have a 6000i which is the same as the 6800 with a smaller bore. It is a fine saw but a little heavy by today's standards.

 

[mowoodchopper]

wish i still had mine, they dont make saws that good anymore!!

 

[tallguys]

I have a 6000i which is the same as the 6800 with a smaller bore. It is a fine saw but a little heavy by today's standards.

Heavy-shmevy. Remember that I have a PS-510 which its detractors complain is too heavy for its size and output, so it would seem that the PS-6800i is the perfect companion saw for it. :biggrin: Right now nobody can rain on my parade as I just got back from a 3 hour ride picking it up. Boy does she ever growl! I'm betting she eats wood like nobody's business. Buddy who sold her to me claims even his BB modded MS362 gets spanked!:biggrin:

Did I mention that I'm feeling kind of happy?:biggrin:

 

[tallguys]

I have a 6000i which is the same as the 6800 with a smaller bore. It is a fine saw but a little heavy by today's standards.

Oh, nice saw you got there BTW. Is that the starter switch I just behind the pullcord to the rear of the recoil cover? Never seen one like that... kind of neat. I wish my 6800i was a bit cleaner like yours. Speaking of which, is there a cleaner or solvent that can get the exhaust/carbon/oil whatever off the paint. I've always used goo-gone but some of those stains seem to be baked into the paint. I figure somebody has to know of a solution to wash it away. I know, I'm being picky... its just that I take care of my equipment and want it to look good as well. Must be a bit of OCD some say I have.

 

[Brian VT]

Did the p.o. explain the "choke" to you ? It injects a bit of fuel into the carb. (hence the "i" in the model name). If you flip it on/off a couple times you can flood it. Once is usually fine.

I've had one here for a year or so but still haven't had a chance to put it to work. I'm just in the habit of grabbing my Saw Dr.-built 268.

 

[tallguys]

Did the p.o. explain the "choke" to you ? It injects a bit of fuel into the carb.

No he did not Brian, so thank you for that snippet of information. I actually asked him about the choke lever because it didn't feel like my PS-340, nor did it just slide in and out like the DCS-520. He said he wasn't sure anymore as the saw was basically a shelf queen collecting dust, the reason he was selling it, and all his other saw were Stihls.

 

[w8ye]

The Switch Behind The Pull Cord is for the handle heater as this is the "H" version with heated handles. It has a alternator made into the underside of the flywheel that makes electrical current. There are heating elements in both handles.

Cleaning up an old saw - Blow it off with compressed air first. I sometimes use a stick to get the stuff loose from the the inside corners but never anything metal as it will scratch the paint.

Then use a cleaner like "409", "Fantastic", "Simple Green", or sometimes "Mean Green", and an old clean rag to more or less wash the saw.

The marks and scratches are worked on with a little rubbing compound.

The "i" version Dolmars have a Tillotson carb with no choke. When you turn the so called choke leaver on, it opens a direct fuel path from the fuel pump to the venturi of the carb. The fuel exits through a small orifice close to a #60.

The saw will most likely start and run with the choke on but will eventually quit if you don't turn the choke off. The 6000 and 6800 have a twist on choke lever.

 

[tallguys]

The Switch Behind The Pull Cord is for the handle heater as this is the "H" version... use a cleaner like "409", "Fantastic", "Simple Green", or sometimes "Mean Green"...choke leaver on, it opens a direct fuel path from the fuel pump to the venturi of the carb. The fuel exits through a small orifice close to a #60.

Heated handles? Sounds cool! Maybe on the next one. As regards the cleaner, is "Mean Green" more industrial then the rest? Also, which of the other 3 do you find gives the best results?

Is there a touch-up paint you could recommend in Dolmar's orange colour?

With the injection lever "up", is it a one time shot of fuel into the carb or is it continuously trickling in?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[tallguys]

I have a 6000i which is the same as the 6800 with a smaller bore.

I just noticed that you have two dogs on your 6000i. Do the 6000i/6800i use the same ones as the 116/120? I was thinking about adding a second one to my saw.
Also, would you have any good source for parts for these? Thanks.

 

[w8ye]

Two Dogs

On my 6000i, the outer dog is a inner dog with the rivnuts knocked off. I ordered a true outer spike but the local dealer ordered the inner one by mistake. I tried to salvage the deal. You would never know it by examining the saw.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Heated handles? Sounds cool! Maybe on the next one. As regards the cleaner, is "Mean Green" more industrial then the rest? Also, which of the other 3 do you find gives the best results?

Is there a touch-up paint you could recommend in Dolmar's orange colour?

With the injection lever "up", is it a one time shot of fuel into the carb or is it continuously trickling in?

Thanks again for the help.

I have been running SD`s since 1985 and have 7 of them currently in running order, we also have a thread that is stuck over in the Stickies at the top of the page. The flip lever choke mechanism does not inject fuel into the engine, it only opens up a bypass channel in the carb that allows fuel to be drawn directly to the cylinder when the engine is turned over.They are much easier starting saws with this feature. Any cleaner strong enough to remove the exhaust stains will also remove paint. Kubota orange is a close match for Dolmar orange.

 

[russhd1997]

I have been running SD`s since 1985 and have 7 of them currently in running order, we also have a thread that is stuck over in the Stickies at the top of the page. The flip lever choke mechanism does not inject fuel into the engine, it only opens up a bypass channel in the carb that allows fuel to be drawn directly to the cylinder when the engine is turned over.They are much easier starting saws with this feature. Any cleaner strong enough to remove the exhaust stains will also remove paint. Kubota orange is a close match for Dolmar orange.

When you flip the lever for the choke/bypass to start the saw you leave it in that position then turn the lever off once the saw is running correct? I am looking at a 116si and want to verify this.

I haven't tried this yet but was reading in a recent thread that PB Blaster works for cleaning dirty saws.

 

[JustinM]

Nice pickup!

Id agree with the points about it being a capable, solid saw, but a little on the heavy side. For most situations, thats not really a negative for me - if i were using one all day, every day, I could see how it might be a bit of an issue.

 

[w8ye]

With the Dolmar "i" saws, most will start and run (rich) with the choke on.

 

[Eccentric]

That cold-start enrichment setup is similar in function to the "choke" on many many Mikuni and Kehin slide valve motorcycle carbs. These carbs have no choke butterfly, but rather a sliding spool valve that allows additional fuel to be drawn into the venturi. Works fine...

 

[pioneerguy600]

When you flip the lever for the choke/bypass to start the saw you leave it in that position then turn the lever off once the saw is running correct? I am looking at a 116si and want to verify this.

I haven't tried this yet but was reading in a recent thread that PB Blaster works for cleaning dirty saws.

Yes, leave the lever up til the saw starts, runs a few seconds and then flip the lever down. Most saws will run for an extended period with the lever up but it will be running very rich and may flood out if run too long in that position.
I can`t comment on PB Blaster as I have not seen that cleaner up here, got to be careful with unknown cleaners as they can take off the paint right down to the magnesium.

 

[rms61moparman]

PB Blaster isn't a cleaner, it is a VERY excellent penetrating oil.

I don't find the story about the 362 hard to believe at all.
I recently ran my first 120SI and as soon as I can accumulate the funds it will be making a trip to Ky.
They are pretty impressive saws even in stock form.


Mike

 

[russhd1997]

PB Blaster is penetrating oil in an aerosol can. It is mentioned here, http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183195.htm?highlight=gunk