What’s wrong with me guide bar

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Ben Hur

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Oldie stihl guide bar channel keeps gumming up with sawdust so tight it locks up the chain. Maybe wrong type of chain or bar is no good?
The Oiler flows good maybe to good, cutting oak with stihl 066.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
 

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Oldie stihl guide bar channel keeps gumming up with sawdust so tight it locks up the chain. Maybe wrong type of chain or bar is no good?
The Oiler flows good maybe to good, cutting oak with stihl 066.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Well, it sounds like two possible problems:

1) Your chain is so dull you're generating lots of fine sawdust.
2) You're running an incorrect chain. Since you haven't told us anything about the chain all we know is that it's a .050 bar that should be running 3/8 chain with 91 drive links.
 
are the bottoms of the drivers all peened over? If you throw a chain it can mangle up the drivers to where they will bind in the bar groove. It can be hard to see at a glance, i usually find this by feel.

I have also had some historic bars that looked straight and true but the groove was so wallered out at the bottom of the groove the chain would flop side to side and the saw would cut crooked and bind up with a new chain on it. Some one had closed the rails so it looked "right" and it was most likely a 40 year old bar. When it was buried in 30" of spruce it would wander and bind.
 
Does it only happen towards the end of a cut? If you stop the chain in the wood then pull it out, a wad of sawdust can get jammed under the chain and lock things up. I've also known sawdust to jam in a sprocket too.

If it happens while it sits and isn't used, maybe you are using vegetable oil which will lock up a chain stiff, and require heat to free things up again.
 
Oldie stihl guide bar channel keeps gumming up with sawdust so tight it locks up the chain. Maybe wrong type of chain or bar is no good?
The Oiler flows good maybe to good, cutting oak with stihl 066.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Have you cleaned out the groove of the bar really good? I have had some instances where oil, sap, and sawdust have accumulated in that groove and become so compacted that it causes what you describe. I have an original stihl bar groove cleaner tool and I am always amazed how much junk comes out.
 
Thanks everyone for taking time to help, much appreciated. I think it was a mix or wet wood and stopping inside the wood. It was a 30” white oak.
Learn something new everyday.
 
Have you cleaned out the groove of the bar really good? I have had some instances where oil, sap, and sawdust have accumulated in that groove and become so compacted that it causes what you describe. I have an original stihl bar groove cleaner tool and I am always amazed how much junk comes out.
Yes, exactly what you describe, I use that raker tool, i have to put aN unusual amount of force to scrap it out. Doesn’t seem normal cause I have to do this often. It’s really packed in.
Could it be to much oil flow? I have it turned up max
 
It looked good enough to me, just hold a pencil up to the screen, align with chain, then check the gap.

Loading up with chips is common on longer bars. Just bump the throttle enough to keep the chain going as you pull it out of the wood, and watch for kickback.
 
I think it was a mix or wet wood and stopping inside the wood. It was a 30” white oak.
Learn something new everyday.
Don't throttle back in the cut of larger wood (if that's what you mean?)
It relys on centripital force. If you lose to much speed in the bigger cuts and or create a lash then the chain will pull chips in the bar grove on the top between the sprocket and bar tail and jam at the tip as well the chips will enter underneath in the middle of the bar as you come of the dogs.
If you don't use the felling dogs constantly and evenly then it's going to be prone to this if the chain is aggressive in timber type.
You may find it better with 7/32 file for this cutting. Maybe angle file tip into the corner a bit if still need be.
You can control the revs better with use of the felling dogs this way and the chain stays tighter to the bar.
--------
That is the right chain, BTW
#3 on the driver for Stihl chain represents
1.3mm gauge. (050")
#5 = 1.5mm (058")
#6 = 1.6mm (063)
 
Don't throttle back in the cut of larger wood (if that's what you mean?)
It relys on centripital force. If you lose to much speed in the bigger cuts and or create a lash then the chain will pull chips in the bar grove on the top between the sprocket and bar tail and jam at the tip as well the chips will enter underneath in the middle of the bar as you come of the dogs.
If you don't use the felling dogs constantly and evenly then it's going to be prone to this if the chain is aggressive in timber type.
You may find it better with 7/32 file for this cutting. Maybe angle tip into the corner a bit if still need be.
You can control the revs better with use of the felling dogs this way and the chain stays tighter to the bar.
--------
That is the right chain, BTW
#3 on the driver for Stihl chain represents
1.3mm gauge. (050")
#5 = 1.5mm (058")
#6 = 1.6mm (063)
The tree was on the ground so I would stop in wood before I cut All the way through so I dont bury the tip in dirt.
I do tree work on the side during winter so I’m still learning the little things.
Thanks, I’ll try the 7/32 file.
 

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