dce1843
ArboristSite Operative
Im about to purchase a new bar and chain for my saw. I know it has to be a 3/8ths pitch, but im unsure what gauge to run. What are the pros and cons of using .050, .058, .063 chains if any.
what gauge chain to use?
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Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
power of the saw and length of the bar control a lot of this question . If your using say a 79 cc saw with a 20" bar it has a much easier time pulling thicker kerf chain. If your at 50 cc and running a 20" bar well you have two ways to look at it in the .325 setup tooth chain you could go wider kerf but in the 3/8 you may want to stay towards the narrower kerf it takes less saw to pull . so its not that simple of a question to answer . the longer bars also work better with a thicker kerf chain when sideways sag comes into play as well. personally i try to keep all my saws the same . at .50 its easier to find . the thicker chain i believe also tends to stretch less if I'm not mistaken. hope that helps you some .
dce1843
ArboristSite Operative
Sorry I guess should have mentioned the saw. It a Mac DE 80, at 82cc's I think It would have enough power to pull whatever. I was thinking a 24 or 28" bar should be easy enough for it. I have a 7 pin sproket on it now.
If your buying locally, see what is common and predominant in your shopping corridor. Buying online gives you all the options all the time. Ive seen killer deals on .058 bars, but not the chain, no good for me. Ive got all .050 bars and chain. As with anything in this business, maintenance parts or otherwise, have enough so your never short.
Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
24 an up id go .63 specially if your buying stihl chain locally . Its popular with stihl dealers here but I would check locally with the brand chain you want to run . Who can cut it in both semi and chisel chain to your specs . But I like the .63 on the 24 " & up less side sag . But definately check your local chain dealers stocks . To male sure he has what you bolt on .
If you have side sag you have bar wear issues that need to be addressed.
Gauge apart from NK (Narrow Kerf .325) or Low-profile (3/8 mini) means nithing its just regional/manufacturer preference. Get whats common in your area or stock up and run what you want to run.
Guage has nothing to do with kerf, generally speaking.
Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
I was meaning that as if the saw was at a limit
When you look at a ms290 or so a 5105 both are maxxed at 20" bars with 3/8 chains you dont want a heavier chain on either of those two saws . A .50 suits it far better when at a full spread .
When you look at a ms290 or so a 5105 both are maxxed at 20" bars with 3/8 chains you dont want a heavier chain on either of those two saws . A .50 suits it far better when at a full spread .
To the OP, run whatever is most available to you. Around here, all 3/8 is .050 and .325 is .063. Other places 3/8 is usually .063. It doesn't really make that much difference.
sunfish
Fish Head
.050, .058, .063 gauge is the thickness of the drivers, has nothing to do with how the saw runs.
I run mostly .058, but have one saw with .050. Both easy to get around here.
Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
I guess ill elaborate better where im coming from with this since im being quoted differently then I intended. First off even though the measurements are minute there are differences in wider chain. Wider chain needs to displace more oil in cold weather this makes a difference. Saws like the super xl 12 ao were designed with tons of torque they have an easier time displacing the oil between the channels when the oils cold. Granted that you can run a .50 chain on that saw as well . The reason I use the term kerf is I was speaking to reference both fields of gauge and pitch for a faster not so detailed explanation . Today in 3/8 lo pro chains there are .43 gauge chains referred to as smaller kerf . Like I said above there is alot to do with personal preference and availabilty locally , by far being the most important reason in buying a gauge. I know if are gauges are available locally then the other factors come into play as a minute deciding factor. The width of a drivelink or gauge has a minor but slight difference in rivet and tie strap orientation , meaning that the wider the rivet you have to use the more lateral support a chain will have when loose. keyword there being when loose. If you want to get into deciding factors these are minute but are there all the same. The physics of wider chain displacing more oil through the bar channel and type of saw in question ,length of bar to the hp of the saw may make small differences but they are there. I personally like .50 on a dolmar 5105 20" bar but it turns the rmp fast , very quick throttle response. On the super xl 12 I use the .63 but its a torque monster for the closest comparision with the same length bar although its two drive links shorter. I have every gauge of chain available to me though . My other seven saws I run 50 on just for interchangeabilty. If .63 was the only thing available to me I would buy .63 just simply because its next door so to speak. Sorry I didnt clarify that with the entire paragraph last night I opted for the short version in assuming all the gauges are locally there. How minor the difference you will have a personal preference as time goes on as well im sure. I personally think .63 carrys more momentum in the cut as well as its heavier.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
if you run a 28 or 32 inch bar the .63 will carry more oil to the tip of the bar ,also the chain will not stretch and need tightened up as much
SawTroll
Information Collector
Eecho; Kerf has to do with the cutters, not the gauge - even though different gauge also have slimmer cutters in some cases (but far from always). The kerf is the width of the cut in the wood, not the distance between the bar rails. :msp_wink:
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Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
I tried to clarify how I meant it .i understand totally what kerf is . I used short terms instead of gauge for lack of my attention in my upper post. In a very tiny since the wider drive link with a riveted tie strap is only a tad bit wider . I know that kerf would more pertain to the top cutters offset though. Sorry for my short hand . I assumed too much in my lack of terminology. In say a hand saw you want less tooth offset when ripping , then a crosscut saw . You see where I was coming from with the wider drivelink ever how slight it is in thousandths of a inch it would increase slightly . Im not aware of chain companies compensating the cutter to less offset to build a chain on .50 chain vs .63 though all the same . So in actuality was my shorted explanation.
If all the bars and chains I currently use are 3/8 pitch and .050 gauge, I should be able to interchange them among saws, such as 441, 460 and 660. Now, if I purchase a 36" bar with 3/8 pitch and .058 gauge, do I just get the corresponding chain size and be able to run it on different saws or would I also have to change the sprocket size on the saw I want to run the 36" bar on because of the thicker runner on the chain.
Just looking at buying a bigger bar and don't want any surprises once I get it.
Just looking at buying a bigger bar and don't want any surprises once I get it.
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