What other saws were or are problamatic?
- Thread starter Trigger Man
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DroppedP51
ArboristSite Operative
dad had a solo electronic 633? wen it went it was a good saw
would never restart after bein used
would never restart after bein used
Hmmm....No gripes with Stihl..?
:monkey:
:monkey:
I had an old Stihl once and it was very hard to work on, at least what I had to do to it. Piston and cylinder very hard to remove. I ended up shortening an Allen wrench so I could get it in the tight spot I needed to get to. There may have been an easier way, don't know.
2 sthils o28 o41 screws would come loose every truck load . had enough oh that
jimdad07
Addicted to ArboristSite
Leaking oilers on the cheaper saws. There is a multitude of cheap chainsaws in our family, and just about every one of them leaks oil all over the place when you are not using them. Both Poulan Pros I have do it and so does the Crapsmen my father-in-law has. My brother-in-law's newer Homelite does as well. Other than that they seem to handle light duty work ok.
JustinM
Addicted to ArboristSite
My dad had no end to the issues with his stihl ms180 with regards to the oiler. Had that thing back in the shop at least 4 times, they replaced the oil pump etc.
He always uses compressed air to clean it out & has never had issues before. He bought this thing because he wanted a small, light saw for his "little" jobs as he is now 73 and doesnt want to haul around extra weight for small tasks.
I think he might have just about given up on it now.
He always uses compressed air to clean it out & has never had issues before. He bought this thing because he wanted a small, light saw for his "little" jobs as he is now 73 and doesnt want to haul around extra weight for small tasks.
I think he might have just about given up on it now.
I've had leakers in about every brand of saw...I fixed the Poulan with a little sealer around the oil pump, being careful not to get it in the oil holes. On the others I decided to just not fill them up too much before I shut them off for the night.
What about the first generation 357/359 crankcase issue? We had a pile of 357/359 cases behind the shop about 7 feet high, all cracked through the bar studs...
terry2tmd
ArboristSite Operative
I surely don't have the experience some of you do but I have a couple complaints.
As much as I love my Husqvarna 2100cd I have a issue with the oilers, These saws eat the nylon drive gears, and toss a chain once and the outside seal is toast, besides that they just don't seem to keep up with the saw. Another complaint with this saw is the plastic piece in the trottle linkage and the trigger, when taking the carb out I sweat bullets every time I have to disconnect the wire from the carb from this piece for fear of breaking it. These little levers as they are called are impossible to find, and as Yet I don't know any way to get around them. If anyone has another idea please let me know.
The other Saw I had issue with was a stihl 051 when this one runs good it really runs good, lots of torque. However I hate the fuel line design too maney possible airleaks, and the coil feeds need to be made of something heavier because like it or not this bad boy vibrates enough it will vibrate the tank off if the screws aren't properly lock tighted.
As much as I love my Husqvarna 2100cd I have a issue with the oilers, These saws eat the nylon drive gears, and toss a chain once and the outside seal is toast, besides that they just don't seem to keep up with the saw. Another complaint with this saw is the plastic piece in the trottle linkage and the trigger, when taking the carb out I sweat bullets every time I have to disconnect the wire from the carb from this piece for fear of breaking it. These little levers as they are called are impossible to find, and as Yet I don't know any way to get around them. If anyone has another idea please let me know.
The other Saw I had issue with was a stihl 051 when this one runs good it really runs good, lots of torque. However I hate the fuel line design too maney possible airleaks, and the coil feeds need to be made of something heavier because like it or not this bad boy vibrates enough it will vibrate the tank off if the screws aren't properly lock tighted.
XJWoody
ArboristSite Guru
029 Master Control Lever™
The "029 Family" (I'd include the current 290-310-390 unless something has changed) has the most fiddly :censored: POS kill-switch choke apparatus I've ever seen. Whoever engineered that aspect needs to be sent to the eastern front.
If I had to rely on this as my only saw, I'd mash it with the tractor & go back to using gas logs
At least with Husky's old kill switch, when it died, it just died... it didn't flail around & dare ya to fix it.
Hmmm....No gripes with Stihl..?
:monkey:
The "029 Family" (I'd include the current 290-310-390 unless something has changed) has the most fiddly :censored: POS kill-switch choke apparatus I've ever seen. Whoever engineered that aspect needs to be sent to the eastern front.
If I had to rely on this as my only saw, I'd mash it with the tractor & go back to using gas logs
At least with Husky's old kill switch, when it died, it just died... it didn't flail around & dare ya to fix it.
AdamL
ArboristSite Operative
I've had several, 066's with plugs stripped, the most recent one was still salvageable, I drilled it out and installed a "timesert" works great still pulls 150lbs compression and no airleaks.
Banshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine too striped, but a helicoil fixed it. I was wondering if anyone else had that problem because when I was at my dealer he had 3 cylinders all with striped plug holes. He mention that he gets a lot that come in like that.
terry2tmd
ArboristSite Operative
The "029 Family" (I'd include the current 290-310-390 unless something has changed) has the most fiddly :censored: POS kill-switch choke apparatus I've ever seen. Whoever engineered that aspect needs to be sent to the eastern front.
If I had to rely on this as my only saw, I'd mash it with the tractor & go back to using gas logs
At least with Husky's old kill switch, when it died, it just died... it didn't flail around & dare ya to fix it.
I can completely understand that I got a PM Mac 610 I feel that way about, only its the carb settings( I know I just need to replace the carb, but still) one day it fires and runs with the best of them all day long. The next day is spent adjusting the carb. I would happily set it next to your 029 when the tractor comes.
djmercer1
ArboristSite Operative
ive seen a couple of stihl like that, would it be possible to drill and tap for a larger spark plug thred with te same characteristics?
grantwolland
ArboristSite Operative
another super 2 issue...
on my super 2's that have any age and use on them the webbing between the crankcase and the bar mount is cracked like they got the bar pinched and when pulling it out it cracked the webbing. they still run fine but it's happened on three of them that i own. doesn't seem too beefy for them. the duckbill valve and oiler lines are all mush on them when i get them also. don't know if ethanol is doing it to them or what? new valve and tygon line and problem solved. great little limbing saws. the older ones had the fixed high jet. hdc series, the newer ones with the plastic cases either had a zama or walbro with adjustable high jets. when i fix one for a "consumer" I put an older carb on them to avoid them thinking they can adjust carbs themselves.
on my super 2's that have any age and use on them the webbing between the crankcase and the bar mount is cracked like they got the bar pinched and when pulling it out it cracked the webbing. they still run fine but it's happened on three of them that i own. doesn't seem too beefy for them. the duckbill valve and oiler lines are all mush on them when i get them also. don't know if ethanol is doing it to them or what? new valve and tygon line and problem solved. great little limbing saws. the older ones had the fixed high jet. hdc series, the newer ones with the plastic cases either had a zama or walbro with adjustable high jets. when i fix one for a "consumer" I put an older carb on them to avoid them thinking they can adjust carbs themselves.
AdamL
ArboristSite Operative
A time sert looks like this
they are made by the same place as helicoils but these are a steel insert. The spark plug applications have 16mm thread on outside and 14 mm thread on inside, they are more dualable than a regular helicoil ( which is just a peice of spring) I have used them in alot of cylinders however small cylinders sometimes don't have enough room in the combustion chamber to install the insert.
I don't have a sure solution, but a question...do you use the same type plug every time you change them? I've heard that some plugs are threaded slightly different than others, depending on where they're made. Also you might consider using something like anti-seize on the plug prior to install. I had similar troubles in my VW beetle, cured with insert. I think I had used Bosch and then Champion plugs in it, not sure if that's what caused the thread stripping or not.
grantwolland
ArboristSite Operative
more on timeserts
i've bought packages of timeserts for spark plug repair at autozone and it had three different lengths of inserts in it. i used a shorter one for a mcculloch promac 10-10 and it worked great. antiseize would help with plug removal but i've never had issues with any of my saws...just my buddies ford 5.4L tritons. most sparkplugs that I'm aware of use a 14mm thread with a specific threads per mm. some have a longer reach than other hence the different lengths of timeserts. you can also get them in bulk packages of a specific size. i was able to do the repair with the cylinder on the saw just used grease on the tap tool that came with the package to catch the metal chips and blew out the cylinder well along with brakecleaner. made sure the piston was as far up in the stroke as i could to prevent chips from entering the crankcase. the timeserts should be knurled on the outside to help hold it in the cylinder and I used retaining compund for added help It's a Caterpillar part number that would be available from a dealer(where I work)
i've bought packages of timeserts for spark plug repair at autozone and it had three different lengths of inserts in it. i used a shorter one for a mcculloch promac 10-10 and it worked great. antiseize would help with plug removal but i've never had issues with any of my saws...just my buddies ford 5.4L tritons. most sparkplugs that I'm aware of use a 14mm thread with a specific threads per mm. some have a longer reach than other hence the different lengths of timeserts. you can also get them in bulk packages of a specific size. i was able to do the repair with the cylinder on the saw just used grease on the tap tool that came with the package to catch the metal chips and blew out the cylinder well along with brakecleaner. made sure the piston was as far up in the stroke as i could to prevent chips from entering the crankcase. the timeserts should be knurled on the outside to help hold it in the cylinder and I used retaining compund for added help It's a Caterpillar part number that would be available from a dealer(where I work)
