Woodsman Portable Sawmill

[woodsrunner]

I've seen their website before. Interesting design, sort of a cross between the Mobile Dimension saw and a Brand X swingblade saw. Never run one or seen one in action. Good price on it too. If its well made I think it would work well for your purpose.

 

[Ted J]

http://www.woodsmansawmillcompany.com/

Anybody have one of these or seen one run? I'd like to know the good, bad, and ugly on this rig.

Intended purpose would be to mill logs for a timberframe house in the 6,500sq ft range. Round log to square beam. Then to make dimensional lumber for cabinets, flooring, etc.

My own house, not for a customer. If it takes 3 years it takes 3 years. Not doing much timber framing at the moment anyway. Lousy economy...

I have changed my mind about getting a bandmill to getting one of these sawmills. I like this alot better than a bandmill just for the fact that I won't have to muscle the logs around except for the one time when putting it in place.

I figure the widest board I would need is going to be 12 inches anyway, for my purposes. I'm not going to be making conference room tables, my uses would be mainly for furniture and such, and maybe the occasional guitar (if I finish the one I'm working on now).

It seems easier and cheaper to sharpen the blade since the sharpener comes with the sawmill, rather than change out and sharpen a band blade more often.

The price is about 2-3K more than I originally budgeted for but I think my back will feel better about it in the long run.

But these are just my opinions and observations only.

Ted

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have changed my mind about getting a bandmill to getting one of these sawmills. I like this alot better than a bandmill just for the fact that I won't have to muscle the logs around except for the one time when putting it in place.

What muscleing would that be? The cable log loader/turner on my Lumbermate loads/turns even the biggest logs with NO muscleing at all,

Another thing, "if" you don't turn the log, you can NOT get the best grade from the log, Like these clear cherry 14", over 20 foot boards coming off this cant,

You also will not get the best recovery either... And i can make beams up to 24"x24", and i get even more recovery from my logs with the thin kerf band.

Yes i have to sharpen bands, but i do that myself when i "feel like it" and it's really no big deal. Even with the sharpener and setter and bands, my Norwood Lumbermate cost a lot less than $12,000.00.
Rob

 

[BlueRider]

the diminsional consistancy and acuracy of lumber off a lucas is way higher than what a woodmizer can make, and that comes from someone who has run a log or two on both set ups. I like the set up in the picture. It is still portable yet you don't have to set it up each time like a lucas. sure you cant take it into the forest but how many people are really packing their Lucas in and packing the lumber and mill back out?

I bet with a bit of modding you could bolt a chain saw on the bottom of that thing and cut slabs too.

 

[BIG JAKE]

I noticed when they cut the 1X12 board (two passes), the kerf of the second cut did not match the first and looked to be 1/8" off or more. If this is easily tweekable on the second cut that would be nice. If not I'd probably look at something else in a round blade. Having that offset in the plane would bug me. Sure you could plane it but would put a lot more work/waste into the process. Not sure why they would show that part on a demonstration video. Other than that looks like a good workable unit-decent quality.

 

[redprospector]

I noticed when they cut the 1X12 board (two passes), the kerf of the second cut did not match the first and looked to be 1/8" off or more. If this is easily tweekable on the second cut that would be nice. If not I'd probably look at something else in a round blade. Having that offset in the plane would bug me. Sure you could plane it but would put a lot more work/waste into the process. Not sure why they would show that part on a demonstration video. Other than that looks like a good workable unit-decent quality.

I noticed that too. I wish it would cut a little bigger piece of lumber in one pass. I cut too many 8x8 and bigger for it to work for me. It's sized kinda like the old Mayco Timber Champ, made by Mobile back in the day.

Andy

 

[Backwoods]

As far as comparing the portability of the Lucas mill, to that of a band mill. I have taken my big LT-70 off into the backsides of many farms and have towed it over narrow bridges, up skid trails, down into little valleys with little to no problems. A smaller bandmill would be even more portable as it would fit between trees that are closer together. Both styles of mills require a certain amount of level ground to operate on.

As far as consistency, a well-tuned bandmill will not have deviation. Where even the Lucas demo shows inconsistency in the cut, with the two cuts not lining up on wide boards.

Just comparing apples to apples, rather then apples to oranges.

 

[redprospector]

What muscleing would that be? The cable log loader/turner on my Lumbermate loads/turns even the biggest logs with NO muscleing at all,



Another thing, "if" you don't turn the log, you can NOT get the best grade from the log, Like these clear cherry 14", over 20 foot boards coming off this cant,


You also will not get the best recovery either... And i can make beams up to 24"x24", and i get even more recovery from my logs with the thin kerf band.

Yes i have to sharpen bands, but i do that myself when i "feel like it" and it's really no big deal. Even with the sharpener and setter and bands, my Norwood Lumbermate cost a lot less than $12,000.00.
Rob

Rob,
Your point's are taken, but I think that both machines have their place.
If a person is sawing in a recreational capacity, I agree, the bandsaw is the only way to go.
If a person is making a living churning out lumber & small beams then these type of circle mill's are pretty exciting.
The thin kerf tecnology is great, but when you look at cutting small log's where you might gain one 1" board in a log, vs being able to cut 3 times as much lumber to ship down the road the benefits of the thin kerf pales a little.
Reguardless what type machine a person has, he will have to have equipment to sharpen or he won't be producing.
It's not so much what a machine cost, but rather how long will it take for that machine take to pay itself off.
I have a band mill that works pretty good, and depending on what I'm cutting I can produce between 800 - 1200 bd ft a day. I've been seriously thinking about a Mobile Dimension Saw to go with my band to up production. I think they both have their place.

Andy

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I think just about "every" mill has it's place, BUT Krusty is asking about a "personal" sawmill, to saw out material for his house and for other personal use.

In that case, a machine that is better at the "highest production", or is better at "makeing beams" sure isn't the best saw for him.

When it comes to sawmills that are the best "all around mill", doing more things "better" than any other, band mills are it. They do more things better than any other style of mill, for less up front cost.

A manual bandmill fits Krustys criteria perfectly... And has a decent resale if he decides to sale the mill later...

The best full size bandmill i've found, that has a decent up front cost, works as advertised, and allows all kinds of upgrades as $$ allow, would be a Norwood bandmill. There are other good small bandmills, but Norwood has the best price for equil or better quality... Norwood invented this class of bandmill, and has stayed a leader since then...

Rob

 

[Ted J]

I noticed when they cut the 1X12 board (two passes), the kerf of the second cut did not match the first and looked to be 1/8" off or more. If this is easily tweekable on the second cut that would be nice. If not I'd probably look at something else in a round blade. Having that offset in the plane would bug me. Sure you could plane it but would put a lot more work/waste into the process. Not sure why they would show that part on a demonstration video. Other than that looks like a good workable unit-decent quality.

I don't know how it could have been off...? The blade was not adjusted up or down on the second pass, it was simply moved over to make the pass down the other side of the log, so the cut is in the same location in height.

Ted

 

[Backwoods]

I don't know how it could have been off...? The blade was not adjusted up or down on the second pass, it was simply moved over to make the pass down the other side of the log, so the cut is in the same location in height.

Ted

If the frame were not set up 100% square, level, and solid, shifting the saw over would put the saw on a different plain allowing for the differences in the cut. With a band mill the head is working from a solid base, so even if the frame (the base) is not a 100% level the cuts will still be square and level to the frame. This is one of the factors that make setting up a portable bandmill quicker and simpler.

When the milling is done where the tree fell, the ground is generally soft. On occasion, there will be a solid gravel base. With the Lucas style mill set up on soft ground it will settle as the head is ran back and forth giving deviation in the cuts as well. A bandmill will settle as well but it will not affect the cut as the head is still referenced to the frame.

 

[Ted J]

What muscleing would that be? The cable log loader/turner on my Lumbermate loads/turns even the biggest logs with NO muscleing at all,

Rob, Maybe I shouldn't have used the term muscle...?
The way I see it, the less time I am messing with the logs after they are up there for cutting the better. I guess i'm just lazy.

Another thing, "if" you don't turn the log, you can NOT get the best grade from the log, Like these clear cherry 14", over 20 foot boards coming off this cant,

14" or 12"... what's two inches.:biggrinbounce2: that is a nice looking log though!!
Besides, I don't know what I would do with a board 14" wide by 20' long. I'de probably cut it in 6 to 8 foot lengths. I'de have to trim the width too. My planer won't take 14" wide boards, of course I could plane it by hand, which is no problem. Again, I anticipate the widest board I would probably ever need is 12".

You also will not get the best recovery either... And i can make beams up to 24"x24", and i get even more recovery from my logs with the thin kerf band.

The woodsman can make those 24"x24" beams also can't it?
I don't know why everyone goes on about the thickness of the blade, to me it's irrelevant. If the saw blades were 1/2" thick or thicker that might be a different story. The chain saw mills take a good chunk of wood out when cutting slabs. If you compare the differences of the saved wood, it comes out to a difference of what... about 15 BF on a 2 foot x 10 foot log, not even an extra board. I don't want to labeled as not being "green", if I was I'de be doing it with a handsaw...... can't see that happening either.

If you just think of all the scraps you might have had that you either threw away, burned up, or they are sitting in a bin waiting to be thrown away or used, that extra board isn't much.

Yes i have to sharpen bands, but i do that myself when i "feel like it" and it's really no big deal. Even with the sharpener and setter and bands, my Norwood Lumbermate cost a lot less than $12,000.00.

You have a point there Rob... but I would have to put that thing together when it comes in won't I? Here's where that lazy part comes in again.... MAn... it's a wonder I get anything done isn't it?

I'm just thinking about my needs for cutting, and that would be mostly dimensional lumber. If I feel the need to get some wider boards, there's a guy with a logmaster bandmill about 7 miles down the road I can take my logs to.
But these are just my opinions and have nothing to do with reality!!
Ted

 

[Ted J]

If the frame were not set up 100% square, level, and solid, shifting the saw over would put the saw on a different plain allowing for the differences in the cut. With a band mill the head is working from a solid base, so even if the frame (the base) is not a 100% level the cuts will still be square and level to the frame. This is one of the factors that make setting up a portable bandmill quicker and simpler.

When the milling is done where the tree fell, the ground is generally soft. On occasion, there will be a solid gravel base. With the Lucas style mill set up on soft ground it will settle as the head is ran back and forth giving deviation in the cuts as well. A bandmill will settle as well but it will not affect the cut as the head is still referenced to the frame.

Granted you may have a point there, but 99% of the time that board won't be used as it was cut. It's bound to be sanded or planed sometime in it's life as a board for furniture or something.
Isn't the saw on this also reference to the frame? The log is sitting on the same frame as the saw isn't it?

 

[redprospector]

For my house building project I need to make beams for the timberframe. The largest of which is 12" square by 16' long. Then there's all the dimensional lumber for the roof, floors, interior walls, cabinetry, doors, etc. I also need to square logs on 3 sides to make the exterior walls. Haing one sawmil that can do it all efficiently is what I want. Douglas fir and knotty pine are the building materials of choice for my project.

Krusty,
I'm not trying to put down a band saw in any way, and you stated in the op that time was not a factor. But you also stated that you wern't doing much timber framing right now because of the economy. That led me to think that you did timberframing for a living. I could be wrong though. If that is the case you will be money ahead to look at something that will produce some timber in a reasonable amount of time.
The saw you posted is a pretty cool design, and got me looking. But it is pretty limited. My choice is still a used Mobile Dimension.
If you go with a band saw (which is still a good choice) there is a pretty good learning curve, especially in knotty pine, and Doug Fir.

Good luck, I hope it works out the way you want.

Andy

 

[BIG JAKE]

I don't know how it could have been off...? The blade was not adjusted up or down on the second pass, it was simply moved over to make the pass down the other side of the log, so the cut is in the same location in height.

Ted

I'm not the only one that noticed. Watch the video again where they cut the 1X12. It doesnt have a 28" blade on it. Therefore to cut a board that wide it takes two passes. It's off because it's not linear. It's up to the thread originator to examine the opinions he asked for. I'm just telling you what I saw. If the offset in the board is no bigee for him then ok.
Actually I like the rig, but that offset, again, would bug me. I need flat, useable lumber and I don't want to plane every board to make it so. This may not be an issue with 1X6's and if that's all you ever need for your house then no problem. He has to decide. I'm just offering an objective opinion to help him make the right choice=at least that's my intent.

 

[M.R.]

It shouldn't of been off, I'm thinking he likely bumped the log and it rocked slightly in those little low down dogs.

 

[Ted J]

Krusty,
I'm not trying to put down a band saw in any way, and you stated in the op that time was not a factor. But you also stated that you wern't doing much timber framing right now because of the economy. That led me to think that you did timberframing for a living. I could be wrong though. If that is the case you will be money ahead to look at something that will produce some timber in a reasonable amount of time.
The saw you posted is a pretty cool design, and got me looking. But it is pretty limited. My choice is still a used Mobile Dimension.
If you go with a band saw (which is still a good choice) there is a pretty good learning curve, especially in knotty pine, and Doug Fir.

Good luck, I hope it works out the way you want.

Andy

Andy,
Any chance you know what the price for a new Mobile Dimension unit goes for, I'm just curious. I couldn't find any online prices which lead me to believe they probably bring a high price since ya gotta ask. I found a used MD unit with extra options for $20K... way over my price range. I was just curious as to what a new one would be if a used one was $20K?

Ted

 

[redprospector]

Andy,
Any chance you know what the price for a new Mobile Dimension unit goes for, I'm just curious. I couldn't find any online prices which lead me to believe they probably bring a high price since ya gotta ask. I found a used MD unit with extra options for $20K... way over my price range. I was just curious as to what a new one would be if a used one was $20K?

Ted

I talked with them last fall and the price was about $24,000.00 for the base model with a few bell's & one whistle. No trailer in the package I priced though.
Rather than buy the new mill at that time, I opted to buy a used ASV with a mulching head. I'll be working on the mill this year.
$20,000.00 may or may not be too high, depending on what options, and how old it is. If it's a model 128 with all the bell's & whistles plus a trailer, it may be a good deal. If it's the older model 127 it's pretty high.

Andy

 

[Backwoods]

Mobile dimension mills make good stationary mills. It takes quite a bit to take one down and set it back up. I can take my woodmizer down, take it to a log 30 miles away, mill the log, take it down, bring it home, set it up and be milling in less time then it takes to take down a mobile dimension mill move it to another location on the same property and set it up to mill. Another down side to them is getting a big log positioned with the good side up can be a real pain with out support equipment, this leads milling the log the way it rolls onto the mill which will lower the recovery way more then the thicker saws that they run will, as well as producing lower grade lumber. They do have there advantages as a stationary mill if they good support equipment. But they are limited on the size of wood that they can produce.
It takes less nails to put up 24” wide siding then it dose to put up 6” wide siding. It also takes less cuts to produce the same amount of siding when it is 24” wide.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

What muscleing would that be? The cable log loader/turner on my Lumbermate loads/turns even the biggest logs with NO muscleing at all,

Rob, Maybe I shouldn't have used the term muscle...?
The way I see it, the less time I am messing with the logs after they are up there for cutting the better. I guess i'm just lazy.

Another thing, "if" you don't turn the log, you can NOT get the best grade from the log, Like these clear cherry 14", over 20 foot boards coming off this cant,

14" or 12"... what's two inches.:biggrinbounce2: that is a nice looking log though!!
Besides, I don't know what I would do with a board 14" wide by 20' long. I'de probably cut it in 6 to 8 foot lengths. I'de have to trim the width too. My planer won't take 14" wide boards, of course I could plane it by hand, which is no problem. Again, I anticipate the widest board I would probably ever need is 12".

You also will not get the best recovery either... And i can make beams up to 24"x24", and i get even more recovery from my logs with the thin kerf band.

The woodsman can make those 24"x24" beams also can't it?
I don't know why everyone goes on about the thickness of the blade, to me it's irrelevant. If the saw blades were 1/2" thick or thicker that might be a different story. The chain saw mills take a good chunk of wood out when cutting slabs. If you compare the differences of the saved wood, it comes out to a difference of what... about 15 BF on a 2 foot x 10 foot log, not even an extra board. I don't want to labeled as not being "green", if I was I'de be doing it with a handsaw...... can't see that happening either.

If you just think of all the scraps you might have had that you either threw away, burned up, or they are sitting in a bin waiting to be thrown away or used, that extra board isn't much.

Yes i have to sharpen bands, but i do that myself when i "feel like it" and it's really no big deal. Even with the sharpener and setter and bands, my Norwood Lumbermate cost a lot less than $12,000.00.

You have a point there Rob... but I would have to put that thing together when it comes in won't I? Here's where that lazy part comes in again.... MAn... it's a wonder I get anything done isn't it?

I'm just thinking about my needs for cutting, and that would be mostly dimensional lumber. If I feel the need to get some wider boards, there's a guy with a logmaster bandmill about 7 miles down the road I can take my logs to.
But these are just my opinions and have nothing to do with reality!!
Ted

Ted,

If you don't "mess" with the logs, your just not going to get the best grade or recovery out of them... The log HAS to come apart as the grade alows, not just lay there and be sliced... Perhaps you don't care that by turning a log you can go from lumber full of knots, to clear lumber??? Just by turning the cant!

Having a thinner kerf means MORE lumber from the log... Being lazy like you say you are, you should like that! That means you will have LESS logs to "muscle" onto your mill, and it means less sawdust to deal with later... And, if you ever decide to take some Geritol to get more energy, you can sell that 5th board that was FREE, from using a bandmill... HA HA HA

BTW, my slabs get cut into 4' lengths, and when i have a 4x4x4 stack, it gets burned in the wood stove in the shop, OR the half cord gets set by the road and is "sold:". (read FREE money)

As for making a 24x24 beam.... If i want, i can make one in 4 passes.... How many passes will you have to make??? How much EXTRA work will that be for a lazy guy????

Yes you will have to assembly your LM2000, it takes about one day... When it's done, you will know how the mill goes together, and you will know how to repair anything that could ever go wrong with it. And most importantly, you will know how to adjust and maintain you mill. Isn't that a "good" thing??

Rob