Poulan 380 case repair

I am working on putting together a Poulan 380 for a friend and unfortunately this saw has a cracked case where the bar adjustment screw is housed. This just so happens to be where the oil reservoir is. He also had a 365 with the same problem (thread here: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/191376.htm). I used that 365 as a parts saw to get his other 365 running like a top. However when I got to the 380 my only options were fix it or scrap it. I decided to fix it. The saw is in such good shape in every other aspect that it would kill me to throw it out.

So here is what I did. I took my Dremel and with varying bits I cleaned and polished up the whole area so it was free from paint, oil, metal bits, etc. Once that was done I cut out a piece of a coke can that would fit nicely into the slot. I polished that up too. Then I used JB Weld and filled in the area. Once I put a substantial amount in I put the aluminum piece in pressed it snugly. I then put some more JB Weld on that. I'm hoping this provides a nice seal. I am going to let it cure and check it tomorrow evening.

Here are the pics.

I took this during the Dremel process of cleaning out the slot.


The items used. Also you can see the bar adjustment screw in the middle -- its bent to hell.


And this is what it looks like once the JB Weld was applied. I will go back in with the dremel to smooth out a nice channel for the screw/pin.

Looks to me like it should work. Getting it clean as you did and having alittle bit of a rough surface should allow the JB weld to stick good and then with the aluminum piece in there to give it strength. No worrys.:msp_thumbsup:

Good repair and that should work fine as long as you teach your friend how to install a bar and cover!

Looks to me like he hasnt learned that yet.

Been there, done almost exactly that, except I used a sandblaster instead of a dremel. It has been holding up for going on three years now.

Great job. I tried to fix a large crack in a 3700 clutch cover with JB Weld but the crack kept reappearing. Probably in an area that's affected by the bar nuts causing flexing in the cover.
Bob

Well it turned out to be a success. No more leak. This is what it looked like after I took the dremel and a grinding stone to smooth it out to make room for the pin. All in all I am very pleased with how it turned out. I also modded the muffler, removed the limiters on the carb, and properly tuned it. This saw has a lot of guts. I don't know what the difference is but this one has quite a bit more snot than a 365 I recently put together. I was more aggressive on the muff mod with this one, but who knows.

Alright congrats.

MEATSAW said:

Well it turned out to be a success. No more leak. This is what it looked like after I took the dremel and a grinding stone to smooth it out to make room for the pin. All in all I am very pleased with how it turned out. I also modded the muffler, removed the limiters on the carb, and properly tuned it. This saw has a lot of guts. I don't know what the difference is but this one has quite a bit more snot than a 365 I recently put together. I was more aggressive on the muff mod with this one, but who knows.

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Nice work, thanks for sharing. Rep for ya!

I have been into both the 380 and the 365 and even though they both are 60cc saws, the 380 has much better (aggressive) porting than the 365 does from the factory.

Lets see the muff mod.

JB Weld to the rescue. I used it on my snowblower gas tank as a temporary fix. It's been 3 years now, and it's still fine.

barneyrb said:

I have been into both the 380 and the 365 and even though they both are 60cc saws, the 380 has much better (aggressive) porting than the 365 does from the factory.

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I would love to see pictures comparing the two. Or maybe numbers. Ive only had my hands on the 49906 or should I say 36154, not the 69892.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/80505.htm

Here is a link to a similar repair I did on a much worse patient, still works for the guy....

drumbum said:

I would love to see pictures comparing the two. Or maybe numbers. Ive only had my hands on the 49906 or should I say 36154, not the 69892.

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The 365 transfers are straight up and down while the 380's (only cylinder currently avalable) are angled to the rear and flow better imho. 69892 has been changed to 49906 and has the best ports but it still shows the 36154 for order at almost twice the price.

I really don't think the jugs will interchange between the 365 and 380. There is a difference in part number for the base gaskets which leads me to believe the bolt patterns aren't the same. I know for a fact there is a difference in cylinder bolt pattern between the 335 and 330 which leads me to my above conclusion.

I think the 335 336 3300 and craftsmans are the narrower frame where as the 330 365 380 are the wider frame.

drumbum said:

I think the 335 336 3300 and craftsmans are the narrower frame where as the 330 365 380 are the wider frame.

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Take the 336 out of the first group as it actually share parts with the 365 except the jug and slug. You can also put the 3500 and 3600 in with those two as well.

There are differences in the 330/380 cases but I'm not exactly sure what they are at this point.

I'm not doubting Randys observation between the 365 and 380 jug but I have a feeling that alot of what the 380 has over the 365 is not so much whats bolted on top the case as what is bolted behind the jug in the way of the bigger carb.

I still have not got the gumption or time to try the HDA 137 carb on my 365 yet.....

barneyrb said:

The 365 transfers are straight up and down while the 380's (only cylinder currently avalable) are angled to the rear and flow better imho. 69892 has been changed to 49906 and has the best ports but it still shows the 36154 for order at almost twice the price.

I really don't think the jugs will interchange between the 365 and 380. There is a difference in part number for the base gaskets which leads me to believe the bolt patterns aren't the same. I know for a fact there is a difference in cylinder bolt pattern between the 335 and 330 which leads me to my above conclusion.

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Randy the 335 is the narrow case and would have the difference between it and the 365 as well.

Thanks for the correction Mark.

I pulled an HDA49 off the 365. Looked very similar to whatever was on the 380. In fact I swapped the top covers because the plastic grommet that the fuel line attached to was broken. The one that came off the 49 was brass and the piece fit perfectly.

I'll get some pics of the muff mod when I get home.

Modifiedmark said:

There are differences in the 330/380 cases but I'm not exactly sure what they are at this point.

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Its weird because the 330 and 3450 T1 have the same part #, the 380 has another, and the 3450 T2,T2,T4 and 3750 T1,T2 have yet another. Unless some have to do with color.:dunno: