Tool Forum

[indiansprings]

Philbert, thanks for posting the link, the unit pictured is the light duty version, similar to the HD just a tad smaller. It's good to see a high quality product still mfd. in the USA. The shear portion of the unit is replaceable, as heavy as the HD's are I think they will prolly last me a life time without replacement. Basically doing the same job as a pair of 500.00 pair of Bosch shears. I considered buying a pair of pneumatic shears but got to thinking about it and didn't want the hassle of dragging an air hose around.

 

[Philbert]

Philbert, thanks for posting the link, the unit pictured is the light duty version, similar to the HD just a tad smaller.

TSHD

Philbert

 

[WesternSaw]

Cool Tools

Any of you fellas catch that show on the DIY network Cool Tools?
I think the host Chris Grundy get's a little to wound up sometimes but they show alot of neat stuff on there.
Lawrence

 

[Snyper438]

Did you look closely at the close up pic, on the right hand side, in the middle of the label, it says "Polyphase rating" with "200/230 VAC 7.5 hp" and below that rating, it says "380, 460, 575 VAC 10 hp" and below that, it says "600 volts Max."

Just want to make sure that you saw that before we go any further... when I first looked at it, I thought it was a 120 volt box, but then noticed everything I just listed above.

I hope "polyphase" is not a fancy word for three phase...

The three things I am trying to gain is longer life of the pressure start up and shut off switch, since it really isn't made for routing that much current through itself. It technically should be set up as a relay to switch on a contact starter.

Some of the reviews that I read off site at various places stated that they have had to replace the pressure switch due to failure from excess current. (or so they say)

I noticed that all of the top end compressors have control boxes on them, with a starter switch and a pressure switch wired to it. There must be a good reason for that.

Other reason is so I can switch it on and off from the other side of the barn, without going to the breaker box.

Also, I have heard these contact starters can prolong the life of an electric motor. Just another thing I read.

Correct me if I missed something and/or if some of the stuff I read is really BS or not.

The switch/contact box has three big screws on top and on the bottom, and the two 120 volt screws that I assume you are referring to.

From the label, it's a 8736 class contact switch. I did find some diagrams, but still cannot really figure out which motor mine falls under. Is it a capacitor start, or this, or that? There were several ways to rig the thing up.

The diagram for this box is on page 75, and probably goes onto the next page... http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Machine Control/0140CT9201.pdf

Feel free to pm me, i'll help all i can. tried to send ya one but you box was full.

Ed

 

[rain ball]

Stanley 78

bought a plane yesterday. I don't know anything about them. $5

 

[Philbert]

bought a plane yesterday. I don't know anything about them. $5

Rabbet plane - used to create or clean out the bottom of grooves. What they used before routers (you can still use it to clean up routed grooves and dados).

If you mount the blade in the front slot you can plane up flush to the end of a dead-end slot.

Nice find for $5.

Philbert

 

[demographic]

bought a plane yesterday. I don't know anything about them. $5

Looks like a Stanley #78 rabbit plane, as found part way down THIS page.

 

[Brmorgan]

Nice find for $5! I love old hand planes; if I had much more money I'd be collecting those as well as saws... I do have half a dozen, but nothing real special. As far as dadoes go, I've always wanted one of the router-style planes such as the 71.

 

[WesternSaw]

Nice find for $5! I love old hand planes; if I had much more money I'd be collecting those as well as saws... I do have half a dozen, but nothing real special. As far as dadoes go, I've always wanted one of the router-style planes such as the 71.

Nice find Brad!Original box as well.
Lawrence

 

[Brmorgan]

Heh, unfortunately no Lawrence, I wish it was mine! I just dug up a photo online to show the type I was talking about. I'd love to have one of those to clean up a dado groove made with the tablesaw. Try as one might, those never leave a perfectly flat bottom. Or at least not the ones I have anyway.

I scored a couple decent finds in the scrap last week -

I've always wanted a chain wrench, though to be honest I always had in mind something a little smaller! This one's over 3' long from tip to tip, with about 2' of 80-pitch chain. It's a beast! Just a bit rusty, but is in perfectly serviceable condition. I'm probably gonna switch the handle to the other side and use the other set of jaws; they're still in perfect shape. Though i'll most likely build up the worn jaw teeth with some hardfacing rod at work and grind them back sharp like new again. I've really no use for this at home, though it might be an interesting tool for rolling logs around instead of a peavey. I'm gonna take it to work though; it might come in handy there sometime when I need to turn a chain or conveyor drive by hand or something.

This is a DeVilbiss air dryer for use with paint guns. It seems to turn on OK, but the compressor pump keeps clicking on and off. There's a pair of clipped wires, so I figure that was linked to something like a thermostat or what have you that controlled the compressor. I haven't tried finding any documentation online for this thing yet, but it would be handy to have to get it running. It's not something I'd use very much; I don't do a whole lot of painting anyway. But I'm sure it's worth a few bones to buy, so if it's not too major it would be worth fixing.


Found this thing on one of the parts shelves at work the other day, just had to take a picture of it -

OK, OK, I get it already! I shouldn't add ink! Hahahaha... Made me laugh; it's not all that often you see things labeled in such blunt terms.

 

[joe25DA]

Heh, unfortunately no Lawrence, I wish it was mine! I just dug up a photo online to show the type I was talking about. I'd love to have one of those to clean up a dado groove made with the tablesaw. Try as one might, those never leave a perfectly flat bottom. Or at least not the ones I have anyway.

I scored a couple decent finds in the scrap last week -

I've always wanted a chain wrench, though to be honest I always had in mind something a little smaller! This one's over 3' long from tip to tip, with about 2' of 80-pitch chain. It's a beast! Just a bit rusty, but is in perfectly serviceable condition. I'm probably gonna switch the handle to the other side and use the other set of jaws; they're still in perfect shape. Though i'll most likely build up the worn jaw teeth with some hardfacing rod at work and grind them back sharp like new again. I've really no use for this at home, though it might be an interesting tool for rolling logs around instead of a peavey. I'm gonna take it to work though; it might come in handy there sometime when I need to turn a chain or conveyor drive by hand or something.

This is a DeVilbiss air dryer for use with paint guns. It seems to turn on OK, but the compressor pump keeps clicking on and off. There's a pair of clipped wires, so I figure that was linked to something like a thermostat or what have you that controlled the compressor. I haven't tried finding any documentation online for this thing yet, but it would be handy to have to get it running. It's not something I'd use very much; I don't do a whole lot of painting anyway. But I'm sure it's worth a few bones to buy, so if it's not too major it would be worth fixing.


Found this thing on one of the parts shelves at work the other day, just had to take a picture of it -

OK, OK, I get it already! I shouldn't add ink! Hahahaha... Made me laugh; it's not all that often you see things labeled in such blunt terms.

Scrap finds are the best. This thread is great too since we always find "new" stuff, which educates you on what to pull to the side!

 

[WesternSaw]

Craftsman Transit

I know I post on here about my new tool finds but never any pictures but i will try and make a effort to get some of them up this week.Now I should tell you that a neighbour of mine was cleaning out his garage and gave me a couple of excellent freebies.
#1 Two steel car ramps in mint condition.Would hold a small car up I guess.Made in Canada,WOW.
#2 An old Craftsman Transit (Farm Level) in mint condition.Model number #789.46210.It is missing the compass that comes with it and also a measuring stick (rod).Also missing owners manual and instructions for it.Also missing the tripod.So if any of you guys know of any good farming web sites please let me know, maybe some old timers can help me out.I tried a few antique survey equipment sites but most say that instrument was geared to farm owners not professional surveyors.Made in the USA.I really would like to find the original stuff for it.
Lawrence

 

[Philbert]

#2 An old Craftsman Transit (Farm Level) in mint condition.Model number #789.46210.

Did you check the Sears website? They often have PDF copies of owner's manuals.

As for instructions - they mostly work on the same principles, so any surveying textbook in a library would have enough information for you to be able to use it.

Philbert

 

[Brmorgan]

I screwed up earlier and double posted a pic, and now it won't let me edit it. So this is the entire chain wrench:

 

[briantutt]

New toys! Metric extra long

Brian

 

[joe25DA]

New toys! Metric extra long

Brian

very Nice Brian. Those are very handy.
I gotta post some pics up soon. The ACE hardware store by me had a huge sale on NOS Tools. I got a nice CLC tool bag for work $6, a 7 piece Elkind allen wrench set $1.50, and an Irwin tap and die set (USA) $1.00. The stuff had some dust on it But that was it. When they rang it up I asked twice if he got the tap and die set! All the stuff had dates from the late 90's.

 

[Warped5]

Hope you guys can give me a bit of a hand here. I have this Snap-On compression gauge (MT308KB) acting up and feel that the Schrader valve is due for replacement.

Q1: Where is the valve located in this unit?
Q2: I've been told that it doesn't go into the hose end, but in the head. If this is the case, why are the hose ends threaded?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hope you guys can give me a bit of a hand here. I have this Snap-On compression gauge (MT308KB) acting up and feel that the Schrader valve is due for replacement.

Q1: Where is the valve located in this unit?
Q2: I've been told that it doesn't go into the hose end, but in the head. If this is the case, why are the hose ends threaded?

Is that an air line coupler on the end of your compression gauge hose?
The schrader valve is located in the end of the hose where the spark plug thread in piece should be.

 

[Warped5]

Is that an air line coupler on the end of your compression gauge hose?
The schrader valve is located in the end of the hose where the spark plug thread in piece should be.

Thanks Jerry!

Exactly as suspected.

 

[Philbert]

Attractive Source for Rare Earth Magnets

A lot of you guys are probably familiar with these small, but incredibly strong magnets. Useful for making fixutres, holding chuck keys or bits, etc. For example, I am using some on a base for my chain spinner and breaker to keep all of the small anvils and punches from getting lost.

I recently found a free source of these magnets for scroungers: computer hard drives. Most people will let you have a 'dead' hard drive for free. Inside are a pair of rare earth magnets that drive the read/write heads. Some of these are break-your-fingers-if-you-hold-them-too-close-together strong. Some are just, have-to-slide-them-to-get-them-apart strong. I don't know how that translates into formal terms of magnetic strength.

They tend to be odd-shaped. You usually need a #6 torx driver, and sometimes a #9 torx, to open up and disassemble the hard drive cases that I have taken apart. Fun to play with even if you don't use them for a project. (P.S. - they are stronger when attached to the metal backing plate than when removed).

Philbert