Recommendation for metal brush cutting blade for Stihl FS-130?

[Nonprophet]

Working with a Stihl FS-130 with bike handles. Mostly cutting thick underbrush--blackberries, rosehips, etc. maybe some 1"-2" Ash saplings, but 80% blackberries. I've seen the Stihl 3-bladed ones, reasonably-priced but they get mixed reviews on blackberries. I bought one of these carbide-tipped circular saw style blades, and while the price was pretty reasonable ($20 shipped) and it worked pretty darned good--until today when I "found" an old hidden piece of barber wire fencing that knocked off at least half of the blade tips, plus, I think it would be next to impossible to get an 80 tooth blade sharpened because the teeth are so close together....I've seen the Beaver Blade, as well as the Redmax SST series....lots of choices just know know which one is best for my application.

So, I need something that going to cut blackberries, doesn't cost too much, will last for awhile, and is reasonably easy to sharpen.......any suggestions?

 

[2dogs]

I use the Windsor or Sandvik triangular blade. It holds up better than the Stihl blade and costs less than half. We destroy at least a blade a week in rocks. In berries I use more of an up and down motion rather than sida to side. Make sure you have an extra rider cup and nut.

 

[Zombiechopper]

I have the three bladed stihl one that I have tried to use on my FS110. I don't really like it to tell ya the truth. It's good on heavy weeds like big thistles, but it sucks on woody material. So, don't get that one! From what I've read if you have actual small woody stuff you want the circ saw type. I would suggest one with fewer teeth and no carbide. You should be able to sharpen it yourself then.

 

[msvold]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbide-Tipped-Brush-Blade-Forester-/280895246251

I've used this blade for 3+ years - couple of carbide teeth broken off but for the most part I've been pretty successful using it.

 

[Nonprophet]

I have the three bladed stihl one that I have tried to use on my FS110. I don't really like it to tell ya the truth. It's good on heavy weeds like big thistles, but it sucks on woody material. So, don't get that one! From what I've read if you have actual small woody stuff you want the circ saw type. I would suggest one with fewer teeth and no carbide. You should be able to sharpen it yourself then.

Yeah, I wondered how the 3 bladed ones would work in heavy brush. Make no mistake, the 80 tooth carbide one I bought worked great--it would cut through 2" saplings before I ever knew it, just sweeping side to side near the ground. Still, I think having one that could be sharpened would be nice as well as not being destroyed by barbed wire because knowing this property like I do, I can count on finding more buried barbed wire....

 

[dingeryote]

Try to find an Oregon Shredder blade.

Not so good on saplings bigger than 2" but for blackberry brambles and heavy woody weeds and grass, there is nothing that compares.
They sharpen back up with a grinder, but it takes some serious contact with rocks to dull them. Barb wire dosn't phase them at all.

We can run them for a week in the sand, murdering the blackberrys and Sassafrass, and using the tip of the blade to destroy the woodbine vines that are at, or just under, the surface.

Rumor is that Oregon pulled them from inventory last fall, but I am sure there are some out there still.

Another one we have good luck with, is the 7 or 9" Forrester chainsaw tooth brush cutter blade. They take the sand and dirt a LOT better than the Stihl saw blades, and sharpen back up with a file. They really come into thier own on saplings and Autumn Olive more than Blackberrys though.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[ROWDY]

I personally like the three blade brush knife. As I worked for a farmer in my high school years, one of my jobs were to trim under the electric fences. At that time it was an FS76. It would remove some of the wood fence post if you don't watch it. Yes, if you do hit a rock you will know it. It did take me about 3 or 4 miles of fence to learn how it works the best. My advice is to work it slow. If you get just whipping it around in tall grass, it will wrap up easy. Take it slow and keep clear of down tall grass. As I am retired of doing that for a living now, I now use one on an FS80 here at home for burr docks, weeds around the pond, multi-flower roses, tree saplings, and anything else that's ugly.

 

[Frank Boyer]

I use the triangle blades on stuff up to 1 1/2". It gets slow after 1". The Stihl 25 tooth chisel blade will go through 3" stuff with a fs550 pushing it. For metal blades, change over to a limit stop from the big plastic cover for the string trimmer.

 

[sawfun9]

I have one of one of those carbide blades for my 550 and it will go through 4" of any wood you can put it to, and no rpm drop.

I haven't used a fs130 but if it's anything like my fs250r, the brush knife is good to about 1" but will cut 2" with work and being very sharp. I was able to take down a 3" maple with it but very slowly and it tended to burnish a good bit. For a lot of under 1/2" weeds I'd use 105 line.

 

[racerjohnbf]

STIHL Trimmer Chisel Tooth Circular Saw Blade | STIHL USA Mobile

This is the only brush blade I use. Cuts sticker briars like butter and lets you chop them up so they lay flat. I use in on an FS-90 and can cut up to about 4" diameter trees if it's sharp. The trick is to just tap it a few times on each side so you don't get the blade hot and smoking.

It will dull pretty bad if you hit rocks or wire, but is easy to re-sharpen with a 7/32 round file.

 

[Franny K]

I didn't look up what an fs-130 is displacement and arbor size is. I put a picture of what stihl seems to call a chisel tooth blade. I use the blades on a 34 or so cc husqvarna machine with a 20mm arbor. Stihl only uses that size on their larger machines and hence ended up discounting this one, the smaller one. The big one the dealer I bought my brush cutter wouldn't sell me but one day his assistant was running the shop. I have not been able to find another one that size. I use the no guard, build up speed and hit the stem. LIke a post above mention you are supposed to change out to a stop from the big guard and I assume from reading the manual rest the stem against the stop and power through it.

Mostly I use the three pronged blade, make sure not to get the ones less than a tenth of an inch thick as at least oregon has thinner ones which most likely cost the dealer less when he goes to order one and I of course expected what I always got from husky. I demolished my guard quick and for what ever reason they didn't have another one or feel like ordering one. I will warn that if you cut stuff off say six to eight inches above the ground and then trim close the pieces can impact your hands. I find stuff that was cut off a year or two ago with a blade and has new shoots and dead stems breaks up fairly well with the three prong blade.

More teeth makes more dust which can get in the throat.

I have yet to experiment with all of the options however flail mowers brush hogs stuff like that can often get into places more than one expects and end up doing more with the blade on a pole than necessary.

Fran

 

[racerjohnbf]

Here is a handy reference for what stihl attachments fit what trimmer... View attachment 282846

This should be the blade for the fs-130 if you choose to use the chisel blade... Stihl String Trimmer Blade Chisel Tooth 41127134203

 

[XSKIER]

I use the triangle blades on stuff up to 1 1/2". It gets slow after 1". The Stihl 25 tooth chisel blade will go through 3" stuff with a fs550 pushing it. For metal blades, change over to a limit stop from the big plastic cover for the string trimmer.

I started clearing my place with my dads FS550 and chisel blade. It worked quite well so I went to the dealer and picked up the 1" arbor sized chisel blade and depth limit guard for my FS66. It did the job with momentum and a sharp blade. I've since replaced it with a FS KM 130 R and put the blade and limit on to it. I highly recommend the limit stop in place of the plastic guard, better visibility and much safer, if that is possible with such a dangerous operation. The key to max efficiency is to keep the blade sharp and use the "saw set" that brings the kerf back out wider. Resetting the kerf keeps the blade from binding and slowing the cut. The Stihl blade stays sharp until you find a rock or old fence.

I tried a four foot flail mower behind a compact tractor. Much better for shredding the spoils, but resharpening 120 flail knives with an angle grinder SUCKS! I now just use my mower deck if I want to shred the brushy weeds down, and burn the 1/2" and up saplings and brush. The three blades are much easier to maintain.

 

[XSKIER]

This is the limit stop you need:
https://store.shopweakleywatson.com...egory=&department=12&class=C34&fineline=C3401

 

[Nonprophet]

Well, based on recommendations from dingeryote and my local dealer, I wound up buying one of theses shredder blades. (Apparently, neither Husky nor Windsor makes them anymore, but Champion Cutters does, they call them the "Brush Blender.")

All I can say is WOW!!! For clearing brush--in my case mostly blackberries--this thing is AMAZING! I cleared an area in 30 mins that took me two hours with the carbide tooth blade. The great thing is that it's basically a mulching and chopping blade, so you're not just felling the stalks to lay there in a pile, your mulching them into small pieces at the same time. Never once did the head get wrapped up with vines/brush. Very sturdy blade, very easy to sharpen--it looks like a lawnmower mulching blade. Instead of going side to side, you basically go up and down as the blade cut while you're swinging down. After you're brought down the large stuff going up and down, then you can come back sweeping side to side to get closest to the ground (see the video below demoing the husky version).

I borrowed one of the tri-blade cutters from my friend (tt was the Windsor version) and while it did a decent job, the shredder blade just blew it away! I will say that the carbide blade does a better job on saplings 2-3", but 90% of what I'm cutting is blackberries, heavy weeds, and underbrush and the shredder blades just rips that stuff to shreds--I almost felt sorry for those poor blackberries! :hmm3grin2orange:

It does a decent job cutting grass too, but really for trimming the yard I think I'll just put the string trimmer head back on. I'm hoping to do most of the heavy clearing this Spring, and then switch heads to the string trimmer for cutting the grass this Summer.

If you've never tried one of these, this really is one of those products where after using it for about 2 minutes you think to yourself: "Wow, wish I'd had one of these years ago!!

Husqvarna Brushcutter Shredder Blade: Part 2 - YouTube

 

[Trailtrimmer]

STIHL Trimmer Chisel Tooth Circular Saw Blade | STIHL USA Mobile

This is the only brush blade I use. Cuts sticker briars like butter and lets you chop them up so they lay flat. I use in on an FS-90 and can cut up to about 4" diameter trees if it's sharp. The trick is to just tap it a few times on each side so you don't get the blade hot and smoking.

It will dull pretty bad if you hit rocks or wire, but is easy to re-sharpen with a 7/32 round file.

This is definitely the one to get if you want to take on trees that are upwards of and inch or so and not beat the snot out of your machine. We use them for trail work on the time on older, underpowered FS85's and they work great.

The tri blades are more for barky green stuff and less for actual saplings and woody stems.

 

[Franny K]

I tried a four foot flail mower behind a compact tractor. Much better for shredding the spoils, but resharpening 120 flail knives with an angle grinder SUCKS! I now just use my mower deck if I want to shred the brushy weeds down, and burn the 1/2" and up saplings and brush. The three blades are much easier to maintain.

A flail mower that size with that many blades is set up for basically grass. The ones you see used by municipalities generally are seven feet wide with 44 perches and 88 blades. They really don't need to be sharp for brush like I think this discussion is about. There are even a few options for the actual blades and for a couple of thousand dollars you can convert to a different main rotor and most likely the kind of cutters on the one you used. There are even hammer type set ups for some boom flail most likely what I have seen used by the railroad that munch up branches up to a few inches.

 

[ROWDY]

That does look like a fine cutter. I'll need to look for one soon.

 

[Nonprophet]

Ok, so I'm so impressed with these shredder blades and how they just devour blackberries and underbrush that I went ahead and bought a case of them!! Obviously, I can't use all of them, so, I'll make some available to folks here on a first come-first served basis.

The store I bought mine at charges $34.95 per blade, and let me tell you it's worth every penny--using these shredder blades I cleared in 3 hours an area that would have taken me 3 days using any other blade--they really do work that well. I'll offer some of them to AS members for $27ea. shipped anywhere in the US via Priority Mail. I think I can get 3 blades per flat rate package, so, if you want more than one it's $27ea. for the first one and $20ea for 1-2 additional blades. Hurry, I don't have a ton of them and when they're gone, they're gone.......! Please PM me if you want some of these shredder blades. For clarification, these are just like the Windsor 300mm brush cutting blades and the Husky brush cutting blades seen in the video below. They are basically a lawnmower mulching blade that you put on a string trimmer. These all have the 1" arbor, they are not available in 3/4" though each blade comes with a bushing to allow you to use them on a 3/4' arbor tool. Any questions, or to order one, just PM me.

NP

[video=youtube_share;lIOnRmEaFwE]http://youtu.be/lIOnRmEaFwE[/video]

 

[jus2fat]

Bro..I don't understand exactly what blade you are referring to..??

Are you selling the Bailey's mulcher blade or the Stihl circular blade..??

Either way..I would need the one with the 1" arbor hole

J2F