Santa brought me a Fiskars X27

[Vangellis]

Good statement!

I just turned 60, but also am vertically challenged. Over the years, choices for some outdoor power equipment had to be made on power vs weight and a balance somewhere in-between. That included chainsaws, backpack blowers, brush cutters, etc. I have the original short supersplit Fiskars and what a godsend after killing my elbows and shoulders using a 6 lb maul. Sure it's not perfect and wont split everything thrown its way, but it is a great TOOL.
I'd venture to say that most critics of the Fiskars............never really used one.



Kevin

Not really, it's a steel tool used outside. A little oil and sharpening now and then is zero difference from any other axe. It does come with a teflon coating, and it doesn't hurt to start oiling it right from brand new. Same as any other brand new axe. Or not, it is not 100% necessary. You can let it get rusty or dull, same as any other axe.

Fiskars hits a nice price point between absolute bottom of the barrel and real expensive, same as saws, trucks, etc. There are asian, mexican, european, and USA made tools, fiskars is a relatively decent quality and affordable tool imported from europe. Certainly not as expensive as the other european examples, and only a bit more expensive over the cheapest asian and mexican ones. and a lot of us, not all, but a lot of us can make them work just dfine, and are a nice step up in most wood over what we were using before. I know whatever I can split with a 4.5 fiskars rather than grabbing my old 8lb maul makes my splitting work go much easier for me. Fiskars I can swing for hourrs, that old maul after quarter to half an hour..no mas!

It is what it is, I am not a 20 something at over 200 lbs, I am a 60 something at under 120. I have to use the lightest tool that accomplishes the task. Fiskars worked so amazingly well with me..I mean shoot, no contest over that old maul for the bulk of the wood I need to split, not all the wood, but the bulk.. I still use the maul, but only when absolutely necessary.

Same with saws, I have, for huskies, at the low end a 137, high end a 394xp..I am not using that 394 to do light weight sapling clearing...nor would I use that 137 to fell 3 ft plus trees, when I have the appropriate tool. Both require similar, not the same but similar, (largest difference is in length of chain to sharpen), care and maintenance though. The same as any axe requires similar maintenance.The 200 buck axes require light oiling and sharpening, AFAIK...same as a 20 buck axe...

 

[cre10]

I just leave mine outside and don't really care what happens to it because I can buy another. I only use it on small stuff anyway. The bigger stuff needs more weight. On fresh big logs I don't really like using it because it can be tough to get it out if it doesn't split it.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

You guys would understand Ted if you met him! LoL! I had a blast talking with him when he came over last winter to help use with wood. He worked his tail off. So did the other guys!

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have an older Fiskars. Is it OK to run it at 50:1?
Sorry, thought this was another oil thread.

Congrats on your new Fiskars VW. I still saw the tough ones about halfway through. The Fiskars takes it from there.

 

[turnkey4099]

I've had mine since 2010. It has eaten many cords of Black Locust, has never lived indoors. the only oil it has seen were accidental drips. Great tool! There may be better out there but I'm satisfied with what I have. No more heavy maul unless I am using my 6lb one to encourage the fiskars to complete a split. Light tap usually does the job.

Harry K

 

[Whitespider]

how are these x27's? seems they have a synthetic handle... used many axes with synthetic handles and didn't like the flex. i'm really addicted to a good 4.5 pound head on a wood handle.

I passionately hate a synthetic (especially fiberglass and fiberglass composite) handles on any striking tool... they're an abomination. Some manufacturers even manage to make them worse with "rubber" grips, like they put on those god-awful steel handles. Synthetic (and steel) handles rob power from the striking head and transfer it directly to the hands and arms as vibration, shock and rebound (flex). Any attempt to dampen that with the "rubber" grip just allows the head to rebound and vibrate even more, further stealing power from the striking surface... and even worse, forces the user to grip harder, causing even more transfer to the hands. The only single positive thing about a synthetic handle is it's durability (they don't break)... meaning they're marketed with amateur homeowners in mind. When it comes to striking performance, nothing... and I mean nothing... can replace the performance of a quality hickory handle (except handles made from alien space ship wreckage).

With that said... the hollow (yeah, that's correct, hollow) synthetic handle on my Fiskars is the best (synthetic) I've ever used. It still ain't the equal of a hickory handle... but it's a damn site better than any other synthetic. The rebound (flex) is really only noticeable when swinging it extra hard, and although there's still some shock and vibration transferred to the hands it ain't near as objectionable. I believe the improvement has to be in the hollow construction... someone did their homework when they designed it.

As far as the axe head... I ain't found it to be the magical godsend that some do. The steel is pretty good, just a touch too brittle for my taste... the edge tends to chip a bit too easily. The head shape is damn good for splitting; it does a fine job on smaller rounds (say, 14 inches or less) of straight grain wood... but it ain't the tool for busting larger rounds or stringy, difficult-to-split wood of any size. It's best suited to "finishing up" after the round has been halved with a more appropriate tool.

Chances are, if you're used to splitting with a 4½# axe, you'd warm up to the Fiskars a bit more than me.
But... obviously you're aware of (and, more importantly, can "feel") the drawbacks of synthetic handles... likely you wouldn't find it to be the magical godsend either.

addendum; Considering the cost of a Fiskars is about the same as a quality hickory replacement handle, you ain't out much by trying one... even if it don't become your favorite, no doubt it will find some use.
*

 

[JeffHK454]

I think it's funny that people talk about oiling axe or maul heads before putting them away and both my Condor and my Truper mauls are beat into a Maple crotch out by the wood pile...have been for years, that's my anti-theft system..beat them in with a sledge!

I hate plastic handled tools... but I do stand and gawk at the Fiskers stuff , they are appealing to the eye.

 

[Somesawguy]

I have one, and I like it. It's lighter than a 6lb maul, but splits about as well. If you have oddball or hard to split stuff, it's not the best thing to use. For reasonably straight pieces, it's great.

Like any tool it has it's advantages and drawbacks. Keep both around, and switch off as needed. You won't be working so hard with the Friskars around, but keep it out of the dirt.

 

[Whitespider]

...mauls are beat into a Maple crotch out by the wood pile... my anti-theft system..beat them in with a sledge!

(shrug) I don't leave any tool out in the weather, especially an edged tool, and certainly not a wooden handled tool.
I do grease edged tools before putting them up for any length of time... rust pits are hell on an edge.
Besides, rust and the resulting pitting increases drag and gives the wood something to "grip"... a pitted axe, maul or wedge is more likely to "stick" in a round.

Heck, I'd likely leave the wife out in the weather before I'd leave any of my tools... LOL
(Please, please don't tell her I said that... please.)
*

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Heck, I'd likely leave the wife out in the weather before I'd leave any of my tools... LOL
(Please, please don't tell her I said that... please.)
*

Careful, she may leave your tool(s} outside one night for you to find in the morning.

 

[cre10]

Careful, she may leave your tool(s} outside one night for you to find in the morning.

 

[Torch68]

I use a little bit of my gun oil on my axes only because I usually have that out on the workbench.

 

[mn woodcutter]

I would lime to try a fiskars some time but have my heart set on one of those husqvarna splitting axes. something about using a tool that has been handmade is cool.

 

[leftyz]

I have been eying the x27 since everyone seems to love them so much. I've been doing all of my splitting with a true temper 8lb maul with red fiberglass handle. It's not perfect but it really pops the wood apart. I don't mind swinging it around for a couple hours. I have a hydraulic splitter available to me, but I prefer to do it by hand.

I'm not a huge fan of the looks of the Fiskars, at all really, but function over form...

 

[griffonks]

I don't have a Fiskars splitter either. It's hard to justify buying another splitting tool. 8 pound maul, axe, sledge and wedges, 6 pound maul and a hydraulic splitter. Heck I even have a cone splitter.

I use any oil I have handy on the tools.

I like boiled linseed oil on the hickory handles.....

 

[VW Splitter]

I appreciate all the input. I am thinking bar oil but will probably use whatever is handy. I split with a maul, several steel wedges, and a sledghammer for about 8 years before I built my splitter. That been almost 25 years ago. I have split very very little by hand sence then. I have read a lot about Fiskers on AS. Splitting by hand is gonna be a new thing for me. It will need to be small and straight grain for me to split by hand. The hydraulic splitter will still split most of my wood. I can see where splitting by hand can be quicker with the right kind of wood, and good to keep the old hart pumping. that's what I am shooting for.

 

[woodenboater]

fwiw, and this may only benefit the Canadians here but Canadian Tire has Fiskars on sale for 20% off till Jan 2. Plan to hit the local store and grab one. and if you haven't tried one yet, their brush cutter/axe is the cat's arse. love it for hacking away at the undergrowth

 

[andydodgegeek]

The teflon on mine is starting to wear off and the only problem I see with that is the cheese is sticking to it more when I cut it.

 

[Hinerman]

The teflon on mine is starting to wear off and the only problem I see with that is the cheese is sticking to it more when I cut it.

Considering the source, this made me laugh pretty hard....

 

[branchbuzzer]

No teflon on mine for quite a while now, I just sharpen as needed, but I've also been arrested for Fiskars abuse several times now and am currently on parole.

I've never had a cause to return to the maul for big rounds, just slab around the outside then split up the middle. Was handling 24"+ elm rounds the last few days no prob. I'd much rather have the ability to take dozens of rapid swings on the big stuff.