Sharpening your chain

[Philbert]

I see a lot of, 'I have . . . but I don't use it any more' in these threads. Guys buy grinders, or file guides, or jigs, etc., then find something else that works better for them. Other guys, really like those same grinders, or file guides, or jigs, etc., or would like to give them a try.

If you have sharpening stuff you no longer use, think about listing it in the Trading Post (even if at a price to just cover your postage), or bring it to a GTG. I am sure that there are other AS members who would love to have it or like to try it on their chains.

Philbert

 

[Hedgerow]

The above File Guide in post #34 was purchased by my Dad in 1961 at Sears and Roebucks. He was an ole pro logger back in the 30's up in the high Sierra's. He taught me the ABC's of hand filing, but a Chain Guide is sure handy.

I too, inherited a Granberg file guide... Used it a bit, free handed a bit, bought a cheap grinder and tried that... Dremel, and every gizmo I could think of... Finally figured out it wasn't good enough just to know what to do, ya gotta know why you're doing it...
Then you can sharpen a chain with any of the above... Sharpening chain is something I do for R&R in the evenings out in the shop.

 

[Ironworker]

Hand file and light touch with a Dremel.

 

[Johnny Yooper]

hand file since 1976, when I first put the Mac 210 bar in the dirt at 15 years of age and the ol' man was nice enough to teach me how to sharpen on the spot. Yes, mechanized contraptions might be more consistent, but there's something about leaning over that chain, hand filing and going out and watching it go through hardwood like a hot knife through butter. Bliss I tell ya.........

 

[Deleted member 83629]

I hand file never used a guide i should but i don't.

 

[7sleeper]

(Sleeper7 should be here soon with his HF grinder defense - he lives in a different time zone so it takes him a little longer to jump in . . .)

Philbert

Sorry but the time zone was a little more extensive this time...

Yes it is true that I am an advocat of these el-cheapo grinders and have had very good results with them. For the money they are hard to beat.

What I always find funny is that so many say that these el cheapos are so unprecise, woobly in the mechanics, etc. But at the same time, these same people advocat free hand filling.... I wonder what the logic is behind that? Does anyone really believe they are more precise hand filling? If that was the case then industrialisation would have failed generations ago...

And all the beliefs of people how great there files are are only beliefs! The best are diamond coated. They are the ultimate for bringing the edge to perfection.

Oh well too many discussions have been held here on this topic.

7

 

[nathon918]

Does anyone really believe they are more precise hand filling? If that was the case then industrialisation would have failed generations ago...7

id have to disagree with you a bit...
often (almost always) a mold maker (tool and die) will hand lap/hone/polish work pieces after machining to bring everything to spec. because the machine isnt that precise.
machining centers also often use hand scraped ways/beds to make the machine more accurate.
also some of the most accurate measuring tools in the world (Starrett tools) are made on 100+ year old hand made machinery, all with hand scraped ways/beds, along with hand made fixtures.

im not saying everyone can do it, but its definetly proven that hand work CAN be more precise than a machine...

 

[sunfish]

I can make a chain cut faster hand filing than one off a grinder.

 

[Philbert]

Whatever works for you.

In addition to the tool(s) used, there is also technique, skill, and experience involved: amount of pressure applied, consistency, etc. Files come in different grades of coarseness (like different abrasive grades of sandpaper), and so do grinding wheels.

I recently ordered a set of Total brand resinoid wheels (instead of vitrified) to see if they make a difference - supposed to cut fast, but cooler, but wear faster? Not sure how coarse of an edge they leave. Tecomec makes a series of different types/grades of wheels, like those for Silvery grinders, but they are hard to find here in the US.

Then, there is always the question of what is 'good enough' for you and your type of cutting wood. You could mirror polish each cutter, like some woodworking guys do with their dovetail chisels, but I doubt it would be worth it for most chainsaw use.

Philbert

 

[leftyz]

I still consider myself a novice, but I do all of mine by hand, I've been getting better at it. I did buy the Oregon raker guide / flat file kit, but the file was such crap I ended up tapping all of the rakers with an angle grinder and it worked out pretty well.

Been keeping a better look out for rocks and that's helped a ton as well.

 

[lefturnfreek]

Ohh that's a little crude but I guess if it works for ya.

My vote is for Stilh flat file and using a Huski raker guide as they will cut a Stilh chain as they are way harder that the cheapies.

 

[7sleeper]

id have to disagree with you a bit...

im not saying everyone can do it, but its definetly proven that hand work CAN be more precise than a machine...

No doubt it is possible but let's see how consistent the results are over a 72 drivelink chain are and in what time frame. I also use and like the file a lot. But as you already said not everyone can pull it off.

7

 

[turnkey4099]

id have to disagree with you a bit...
often (almost always) a mold maker (tool and die) will hand lap/hone/polish work pieces after machining to bring everything to spec. because the machine isnt that precise.
machining centers also often use hand scraped ways/beds to make the machine more accurate.
also some of the most accurate measuring tools in the world (Starrett tools) are made on 100+ year old hand made machinery, all with hand scraped ways/beds, along with hand made fixtures.

im not saying everyone can do it, but its definetly proven that hand work CAN be more precise than a machine...

And using precise measuring instruments to obtain the results. Is your eyeball when free filing chains that good?

Yes, the various jigs, grinders, etc. is more accurate than freehanding: the angles all come out the same. It may take a bit more time but that is the only drawback to them.

Harry K

 

[CTYank]

And using precise measuring instruments to obtain the results. Is your eyeball when free filing chains that good?

Yes, the various jigs, grinders, etc. is more accurate than freehanding: the angles all come out the same. It may take a bit more time but that is the only drawback to them.

Harry K

And then, I find it may not. Been using the same guide for about 35 yrs and a dozen saws, from 1/4" to 3/8" pitch, and can set it up without any rush in less than 30 sec. Every other fill-up, a stroke or two per tooth makes them "scary-sharp". Again, relax, not rush.

Like lots of folks, I tried various cheapo file guides, like Stihl's and Homelite's, and the best I could do was pretty random. I tried the super-high-speed Dremel-like grinder that used a Granberg fixture, and mainly used up a bunch of the little "points" no matter how I waxed them. Then I found the "file-n-joint" tool and I was in filer-heaven.

For a buck, I got an NT grinder (waaaaay better than the floppy HF grinder- sorry Sleeper) and I'm well covered for the hard cases. Not a long learning-curve, and I've restored around a couple dozen chains for land trust people I volunteer with. Their comment: "They rip."

See my earlier comments on how I use the slight imprecision in that grinder to enable sharpening with minimum metal removal. Absolute cutter consistency just wastes valuable metal, IMO.

 

[taskswap]

I use that cheap-o grinder from Harbor Freight. The thing is just awful, and I wouldn't really recommend it... but it was also dirt cheap and I've gotten used to working around its oddities. I was too lazy to return it and too much of a Yankee to get rid of it. I'm a spaz with a hand file - I just don't hold my hand straight enough to get a good crisp edge. With this thing I can touch up a chain in about 2 minutes and at least the bevels are all exactly the same angle!

I cut a LOT of red oak and it's kinda hard on chains. But they're lasting me about 2 years apiece, and I'm paying < $20ea for them (Oregon 72LGXs - I always look for deals). At that price I'm not really trying to stretch them any further. It's not sharpening that's eating my chain, anyway. I buy as much log as I can, and that stuff is sometimes dirty and weird. Even a metal detector won't save you from a rock that somehow the trunk grew around while it was small. I see all kinds of crazy stuff in those logs, and it eats about a chain a year.

Could be worse.

 

[Marshy]

Now that's Funny!
Do you also drink Dos Equis, when you drink beer? Facing the east to file... Some kind of Taliban wood cutter?

I almost forgot, it also has to be between 12:00 and 12:30. If you follow this then the sun shine come over your right sholder and will shine on your file. If you hold the file in any other position other than a 28.5 deg angle the sun will be blocked by your arm, and that how I know I have the proper geometry.

 

[Philbert]

I almost forgot, it also has to be between 12:00 and 12:30.

Don't forget the pull of the magnetic North pole on the file, affecting the angle.

Just sayin' . . .

Philbert

 

[krushing73]

for the price,,the hf grinder aint no slouch...and if you prefer to use a mic,,you can get each side of the chain near perfect...

Anyone ever file a full chisel with a HF gizmo ? How do you use a mic and a HF grinder together ? I just bought one and haven't tried it.

 

[turnkey4099]

Anyone ever file a full chisel with a HF gizmo ? How do you use a mic and a HF grinder together ? I just bought one and haven't tried it.

??? the HF grinder, just like all the othrs, has a stop so all teeth come out the same length (allowing for the HF slop, whick isn't much as far as that stop goes). I have one but rarely use it - I can do it faster and better using my clamp on jig.

Harry K

 

[Marshy]

Don't forget the pull of the magnetic North pole on the file, affecting the angle.

Just sayin' . . .

Philbert

See, I knew there was something special about pointing the bar Eastbut just couldnt figure it out!