firewood saw chains

[svk]

So on the "you need a pro saw" lines I've got a question for all of you. My main saw is a Husky 65. In 1978 that would definitely have been considered a pro saw but now it's performance numbers are less than some homeowner models. Am I using a pro or homeowner saw by today's terms? I consider myself in the latter group.

 

[hseII]

HA now waiting for one of you morons to say your 290 is as good as a 362

No One said that; they said their MS290 suited their needs.

Why is this such a big deal?

If it works for him, what does it matter?

My MMMS660 or MMOH44 will cut more than both, but they don't have my saws, they have their saws.

Who cares if a homeowner runs a homeowner saw, a pro saw, or a farkin' Hand saw?
If it works for him, good for him.

 

[stihlman27]

I think there just jealous haha JP I'm very happy with my saws for what I use them for plenty of power for my needs I don't feel its a necessity to buy a pro saw and spend that kind of money on one

 

[hdp]

never seen so many crybabies on one site in my life

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

I buy the Oregon lgx chain for around 19 bucks free shipping in eBay .. About Half the price of stihl and it will hold up 2-1 against the rs stihl chain . No need to try anything else

Does the blue tooth chain have different packaging than the regular lgx? I wonder if I am still getting the old stock lgx here.

 

[Wolfcsm]

never seen so many crybabies on one site in my life

Do you cut wood or just post vitrol? Saws in the 290 - 310-390 family work, are reliable abd cost a good bit less than sa simular "pro" saw. Most people do not need a "pro" saw for the wood they cut each year. Some, like me will get bit by the saw bug and but a large saw that some would call a "pro" saw to cut the wood that most would pass by. The saw that I run the most is the 310 I have had for more than 15 years. I use the big saws when they are needed, but use the Stihl 310 and 024 as well as the Husky 345 I have when I cut most of the wood I burn each year.

The bottom line: Some of us have learned over the years that the non"pro" saws work well for us and keep enough wood cut for our needs. There are a lot of people who can not or will not lay out the $$ required to have a "pro" saw, just to say they have a "pro" saw.

Hal

 

[stihlman27]

Do you cut wood or just post vitrol? Saws in the 290 - 310-390 family work, are reliable abd cost a good bit less than sa simular "pro" saw. Most people do not need a "pro" saw for the wood they cut each year. Some, like me will get bit by the saw bug and but a large saw that some would call a "pro" saw to cut the wood that most would pass by. The saw that I run the most is the 310 I have had for more than 15 years. I use the big saws when they are needed, but use the Stihl 310 and 024 as well as the Husky 345 I have when I cut most of the wood I burn each year.

The bottom line: Some of us have learned over the years that the non"pro" saws work well for us and keep enough wood cut for our needs. There are a lot of people who can not or will not lay out the $$ required to have a "pro" saw, just to say they have a "pro" saw.

Hal

Well said

 

[Full Chisel]

never seen so many crybabies on one site in my life

Maybe it's just me, but I would consider someone who's getting worked up over the idea of someone using a homeowner or mid-grade farm/ranch saw to cut firewood a massive crybaby, among other things...

There has undoubtedly been more firewood cut with Wild Things and farm store Stihls(MS250, MS290) than any pro grade saws out there. That's a fact, Jack.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I probably cut 500 cords of firewood with Mac saws back in the '70s, '80s, and '90s. I still go slumming now and then with my Craftsman 4218 and Echo CS 3900. These saws run and run and seldom flood out. Last month I overhauled a pair of Echo CS 500 EVLs. One had a great feature--a chain brake with a neutral position that made it easy to fill fuel and oil. Both pull a 20" bar without breathing hard.

 

[zogger]

So on the "you need a pro saw" lines I've got a question for all of you. My main saw is a Husky 65. In 1978 that would definitely have been considered a pro saw but now it's performance numbers are less than some homeowner models. Am I using a pro or homeowner saw by today's terms? I consider myself in the latter group.

To me, a pro saw is defined by how it is built, split mag case primarily. I consider, say..my s25cva, 245a and 3400 poulans to be pro saws, and those three saws right there can put a lot of wood on the ground and in the truck. But, sure a lot of clamshells out there that can move some chain!

Of course another way to look at it is, do you make money with x, y, z saws? If so, you are a pro, so your saws are pro saws.

 

[olyman]

No One said that; they said their MS290 suited their needs.

Why is this such a big deal?

If it works for him, what does it matter?

My MMMS660 or MMOH44 will cut more than both, but they don't have my saws, they have their saws.

Who cares if a homeowner runs a homeowner saw, a pro saw, or a farkin' Hand saw?
If it works for him, good for him.

 

[flashhole]

Some good banter on chain performance and preference. I've zeroed in on Stihl full chisel chains for both my MS 460 and 394 Husky. Both are workhorses for sure but get a bit heavy after awhile for old guys like me. I put in between 8-10 cords of wood every year so the saws aren't shelf queens.

No comments about bars? Here again I've switched to Stihl yellow dot bars exclusively as nothing else seems to hold up near as well. Never tried any on the real high end bars like Sugihara so can't comment to those.

Like the others have said, use what works for you ... the important thing is you are out there cutting.

 

[svk]

Some good banter on chain performance and preference. I've zeroed in on Stihl full chisel chains for both my MS 460 and 394 Husky. Both are workhorses for sure but get a bit heavy after awhile for old guys like me. I put in between 8-10 cords of wood every year so the saws aren't shelf queens.

No comments about bars? Here again I've switched to Stihl yellow dot bars exclusively as nothing else seems to hold up near as well. Never tried any on the real high end bars like Sugihara so can't comment to those.

Like the others have said, use what works for you ... the important thing is you are out there cutting.

I too am interested in thoughts about bars. Also why do some people wear out so many while only cutting modest amounts of wood?

I've felled/limbed/bucked about 50 cords in the past two years with my Tilton bar and other than a small ridge forming from the chain wearing against it (which I cleaned up with a fine file), the thing doesn't look any different than when I started. And it probably had 40 cords under it's belt at that point.

The only time I have wrecked a bar is when I accidentally ran over my old oregon bar with the tractor and pinched the metal around the nose causing the sprocket to eventually freeze up.

 

[stihlman27]

I've been running the same stock bar on my 290 for the past 3 years

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Save-Edge files are the best.

 

[flashhole]

Never had much luck trying to square a Stihl Rollomatic ES bar with a file. Darn things are really hard. The local Stihl shop does it on a machine for $10 and it's worth every penny. I drilled two holes in an ES bar a couple years ago to use it with an edger for milling. Ruined two bits before I got through it. I'm impressed with the steel they use.

 

[Wolfcsm]

I have had a 36" GB bar for my 066 for 12 years. I have dressed it now and then but it has many more trees to cut down before it is retired. Stihl bars seem to last and last also. I have a 47" hard nose Stihl bar for my 880 that still has no wear I can see.

Hal

 

[Bartman]

Tried the carlton this past weekend. I like em. I took both 029's with the carltons on them. Only needed the one. Still sharp and ready to go for next weekend. The boy is going to pay the guy a visit and have some made for his 310. We were cutting red elm and oak. A new place to cut too, going in next weekend with a skidsteer and pull alot of the dead out . Probably finish the year here as its only a quarter mile down from the lads house.

 

[stihlman27]

Nice

 

[cus_deluxe]

Back to the pro-saw thing. more and more, "homeowner" saws are getting features normally reserved for "pro" saws (Mag cases as stated earlier, high quality AV, adjustable oiler, toolless air filter service, side chain adjust...). My husky 51 is a great saw, (with a crappy chinese top-end kit) and that thing rips. Far from a pro saw, certainly not "legendary", but a well regarded, well built saw homeowner saw that has probably right up there in the amount of firewood cut