Electric is not that bad.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

unclemoustache

My 'stache is bigger than yours.
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
24,122
Reaction score
62,916
Location
S. Il. near St. Louis
Still here in Montana nursing my dad back to health after serious heart surgery. Been getting kinda bored, so mom says the trees need trimming. I buy him (with mom's money, of course) a pole pruner and get to work. Got all the little stuff down, cut up and bundled for the trash man, but a couple larger limbs need a saw. He's got an electric one, but the chain was toast and he said the oiler didn't work. So I get a new chain, fill the reservoir and everything works just fine.

Gotta say, electric is really handy for this kind of thing - not much to cut, not very big, need it once every year or two, and plenty cheap. Just need to make sure you have enough cord.
 
Still here in Montana nursing my dad back to health after serious heart surgery. Been getting kinda bored, so mom says the trees need trimming. I buy him (with mom's money, of course) a pole pruner and get to work. Got all the little stuff down, cut up and bundled for the trash man, but a couple larger limbs need a saw. He's got an electric one, but the chain was toast and he said the oiler didn't work. So I get a new chain, fill the reservoir and everything works just fine.

Gotta say, electric is really handy for this kind of thing - not much to cut, not very big, need it once every year or two, and plenty cheap. Just need to make sure you have enough cord.
your right on i sharpend one for a work mate and had a go of it when i was done i was impressed.
 
Yeah that would suck to have a 100ft cord and then discover the tree is 100.5ft away
emoji33.png
An internal combustion powered portable generator is a necessity with corded power tools... long drop cords are extremely hard on such tools.
*
 
Biggest problem with electric saws is the big ring gear gets stripped is the chain gets jammed. Most of the units you can get a replacement for it around $16. Have a nice looking Poulan PLN3516F type 2 (3.5hp) that a customer brought in, that part is not available for this saw (just about every other model of their's is though) so it would pay to check that first before purchasing one. They do have a repair assembly which is more than the cost of the complete saw at any of the box stores. Buyer beware.
 
They're fine for occasional homeowner use. How often do you really use a pole saw around the yard anyhow?
 
Trimmed up a bunch of trees for dad today. Even worked on the neighbors trees. Sure felt good to operate some kind of saw at least. Been sitting around watching movies most of the time. Nice vacation, but I'm eager to get back to work. Heading home tomorrow. Going to wear out my wife when I get back. Poor girl.
 
An internal combustion powered portable generator is a necessity with corded power tools... long drop cords are extremely hard on such tools.
*

But when the price is so low with damn near no maintenance, who cares. Throw down 12 or 14 gauge cords and let the motors smoke.
 
Trimmed up a bunch of trees for dad today. Even worked on the neighbors trees. Sure felt good to operate some kind of saw at least. Been sitting around watching movies most of the time. Nice vacation, but I'm eager to get back to work. Heading home tomorrow. Going to wear out my wife when I get back. Poor girl.

Sounds like there's going to be an addition to the Moustache clan.
 
Biggest problem with electric saws is the big ring gear gets stripped is the chain gets jammed.
There are $30 electric saws, $80 electric saws, $130 electric saws, . . . over $500 electric saws. You would not expect much from a $50 gas saw either.

Of course, it's not the price alone. But if you try one of the better ones you will quickly appreciate the differences in power, quality, etc.

Gotta say, electric is really handy for this kind of thing . . .Just need to make sure you have enough cord.

I live on a 50' x 150' city lot. I am never more than 100' from an outlet. Cut up a lot of wood dragged to, or dropped off in, my yard. Have gas saws for going into the woods.

But have used the electrics for storm clean up in the city at friends' and neighbors' houses (power isn't always out). Used my $100 electric pole saw to trim every tree on my block (30+) a few years back when the City dropped the ball. Used the outlets at each house.

Other advantages: quiet; easy ON/OFF; almost zero maintenance; no smoke/smell; minimal vibration; etc. A good quality electric chainsaw can be a great choice for someone who has trouble starting a gas saw, or who does not want to fuss with maintenance, tune ups, etc.

A cheap electric saw is just a cheap saw.

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/electric-chainsaws.285663/
 
I have fixed two Remington electric saws. Worn out crank/motor bearings in both cases. Both needed the chains sharpened--no big deal. Both owners admitted that they had cut the cord in half several times.

I'm surprised that Remington recommends ordinary motor oil for bar oil. I'm sure there is a reason, but I have never seen it discussed.
 
I'm surprised that Remington recommends ordinary motor oil for bar oil. I'm sure there is a reason, but I have never seen it discussed.
Never noticed that. Checked the owner's manual for my model LNT-2 'chainsaw-on-a-stick' and saw that too:

"FILLING OIL TANK
1. Remove oil cap.
2. Fill oil tank with SAE #30 motor oil. Note: For temperatures below 30°F, use SAE #10 oil. For temperatures above 75°F, use SAE #40 oil.
3. Replace oil cap at once. Tighten oil cap firmly for good seal. This will avoid oil seepage from tank.
4. Wipe off excess oil.
Note: It is normal for oil to seep when saw is not in use. Empty oil tank after each use to prevent see page."

Might be because of the intended user, and since some retailers may not carry regular bar and chain oil? I have always used standard bar and chain oil in mine.

I really take the last part to heart (except for the grammatical error) - I drain the bar oil out of most of my saws now, if they will not be used for a while. Especially the Remington! No point absorbing it into a pad, when I can pour in back into the jug and re-use it. On the other hand, my Oregon battery and electric saws leak less than any saws I have ever owned (except for a new saw that has never been filled)!

Cutting the cord seems to be a fear that a lot of people have, even if they do not worry about using electric circular saws, reciprocating saws (Sawzall), power planes, routers, etc., etc., etc. I mostly use my electric chainsaws at a saw buck, or cutting up stuff on the ground; the cord is behind me, the wood is in front of me. Not climbing up, down, over, and around with it.

Philbert
 
I have one in the basement beside the stove for the pieces that I got a little long to fit the stove. Works good for what it is.
 
Never noticed that. Checked the owner's manual for my model LNT-2 'chainsaw-on-a-stick' and saw that too:

"FILLING OIL TANK
1. Remove oil cap.
2. Fill oil tank with SAE #30 motor oil. Note: For temperatures below 30°F, use SAE #10 oil. For temperatures above 75°F, use SAE #40 oil.
3. Replace oil cap at once. Tighten oil cap firmly for good seal. This will avoid oil seepage from tank.
4. Wipe off excess oil.
Note: It is normal for oil to seep when saw is not in use. Empty oil tank after each use to prevent see page."

Might be because of the intended user, and since some retailers may not carry regular bar and chain oil? I have always used standard bar and chain oil in mine.

I really take the last part to heart (except for the grammatical error) - I drain the bar oil out of most of my saws now, if they will not be used for a while. Especially the Remington! No point absorbing it into a pad, when I can pour in back into the jug and re-use it. On the other hand, my Oregon battery and electric saws leak less than any saws I have ever owned (except for a new saw that has never been filled)!

Cutting the cord seems to be a fear that a lot of people have, even if they do not worry about using electric circular saws, reciprocating saws (Sawzall), power planes, routers, etc., etc., etc. I mostly use my electric chainsaws at a saw buck, or cutting up stuff on the ground; the cord is behind me, the wood is in front of me. Not climbing up, down, over, and around with it.

Philbert
One of the owners admitted that each time he cut the cord in half he was working atop a ladder. The other said he was trying to get the job done too fast and lost track of the cord. He showed me the cord and it looked like his dog had used it as a chew toy, but only within 3' of the end.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top