Axes for wedging

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If you're out falling a high dollar stick that needs a special lay with extra hinge they are well worth it. Or if you're out on a line with heavy back leaners.

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Never mind me, I haven't dumped anything bigger than a 4 foot rock maple. Tapped as is was.
 
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My 20" handle 4lb council I carry most of the time.
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My 36" handle 5lb council with a 1/2" plated welded to the flat end for really beating back leaners.
Then I also have a 4lb council with a 28" handle for bigger wood.
Then I also carry a 15" wedge for setting wedges and pounding.

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15" plastic my ol man also liked for setting wedges and often pounding them. You ever try One of those mag driver wedges? Metal apparati with cutouts toward tip about where you would want to hold it and hit a wedge with it
 
15" plastic my ol man also liked for setting wedges and often pounding them. You ever try One of those mag driver wedges? Metal apparati with cutouts toward tip about where you would want to hold it and hit a wedge with it
I have before but prefer the wedge it can come in hand for putting into a tree that has set back.

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I have before but prefer the wedge it can come in hand for putting into a tree that has set back.

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Copy, I never known anybody that tried one just curious. I like a good council like the ones you mentioned myself
 
If you're out falling a high dollar stick that needs a special lay with extra hinge they are well worth it. Or if you're out on a line with heavy back leaners.

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i still ain't tried a jack. some day. and yeah i bet them firs do catch the wind.
 
Could you supply a pic of that holster you made, please, bitz?
Slayer asked for that a year or two ago. Still haven't. I will try the next couple of days. Finally got a computer in the house I can mess with pics now. I will get my wedge belt set up on here. I like tinkering with stuff just to see if i can do it or improve it. I'm putting old calk soles on new boots right now.
 
Personally i like to carry an axe that has an extended shoulder(distance from back of handle to the poll) and a flat poll w/rounded edges. Bitzr gave me the idea a few years ago when something similar was a topic to add more metal to the poll:bowdown:
. Ax head is 4.25-4.5 lbs(not sure). handle is 27". Cant use the aluminum scabbards after i broke my back so axe gets tucked in belt or stump to next tree. Generally i carry 3 tens and have 12's and eights in the truck. the trees out here have a predominant lean for the most part and tend to bend to the sun a bit more than west of the divide. Want another mag. wedge for winter. they can be useful about 55 times a season an you can use the magnesium to build a fire:cold::blob2:
 
I was wondering what the best axe is? I've been in the woods for just over 6 yrs now and all the axes that I've bought from the stores have made the wedge flex therefore not driving straight due to the curved head. I was wondering if there is any straight head axe available or what all of veterans have to say. Open to all. Thank you.
I was wondering what the best axe is? I've been in the woods for just over 6 yrs now and all the axes that I've bought from the stores have made the wedge flex therefore not driving straight due to the curved head. I was wondering if there is any straight head axe available or what all of veterans have to say. Open to all. Thank you.
I get a single bit axe with the fiberglass handle, then I weld a piece of metal on it to make the part that hits the wedges bigger-usually it is about 2" wide and 4" long, and about 1/2" to 5/8" thick-whatever I have around at the time. I also like the additional weight of that welded on metal for driving wedges. Don't let the handle get too hot or it will damage that part of it.
 
I use a 3lb. axe with a 24 in. handle. Try to find one as flat as possible on the back. One's like mine were quite common back in the seventies when timber cutting was big business in Southern Oregon. They are hard to find now. Carry a five pounder in the truck for screw-ups.View attachment 471473 View attachment 471473
They are still pretty common up in the Northern part of Oregon and Sw Washington.

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I get a single bit axe with the fiberglass handle, then I weld a piece of metal on it to make the part that hits the wedges bigger-usually it is about 2" wide and 4" long, and about 1/2" to 5/8" thick-whatever I have around at the time. I also like the additional weight of that welded on metal for driving wedges. Don't let the handle get too hot or it will damage that part of it.
It'll also break down the glue as well with too much heat.

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image.jpeg Going to give a Husqvarna Carpenters Axe a go for driving wedges. Should be a step up from the hatchet I've been using.
 
View attachment 480056 Going to give a Husqvarna Carpenters Axe a go for driving wedges. Should be a step up from the hatchet I've been using.

Those Husky axes come with a Swedish head made by Gränsfors. They make great and sharp heads for carving. Although in the brush you'll end up cutting yourself and your caparison. You might want to give it a tad of a grinder touch before you go. Carbon steel will also get rusty. I'm guessing the stains won't be an issue for a cutter.

Gränsfors makes great falling axe heads as well. Husky seems to have them set on their own handle.

yleiskirves-17a53e5c.png
 
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