spark, gas, compression, but still won't start, what next??

[cityboy]

Early 357's had a junk auto decomp set up. Very prone to failure, they did use a hose to the cylinder base which needs to be capped off and clamped with a proper cap and clamp. Hey City, you asked for help for a simple problem and got good advise. If you follow it, you will fix the saw.

I'm not sure what advise you're referring to anymore. A lot of people have suggested things that I've already covered, they just didn't read the other posts that covered it (can't say I blame them, there's too many of them). Fish is all upset because he thinks I never dried out the flooding, but I covered that in post #44. All the other things I was asked, I did, and posted pictures as requested. There's a couple things I don't have the proper tools for, and I clearly stated that I couldn't do them. My last request was regarding if any of the things I can't do because of lack of tools can be crossed off the list based on other observations I've made. Seemed like a simple request to me, but nobody answered any of those questions, I just got a rant from Fish because he thinks my saw is still flooded. A couple days ago I said screw it, I'll take the saw to someone with the tools and experience to fix it, and everybody told me I should just do it myself and to not give up so quickly. So I can't win either way it would seem.

This thread has gotten too long, I've clearly worn out my welcome, so thanks to all for the advice up until now, but I'm done too.

 

[Fish]

Coming back to this.............


You need to "Dry Out The Saw" period!!!!!!!!!! First!!!! Cheap!!!!!! Free!!!!!!!!!!

You never did!!!!!!!!!!!

Drain the fuel, remove the plug, pull a few dozen times, let dry in the sun.............

When absolutely certain that the saw has been totally drained of all fuel, and all of the old stagnant fuel is LONG gone, no frign hint of any fuel
anywhere!!!!!

Put in a new plug, put a small squirt of fuel into the carb throat, with air filter/ bar-chain removed. Pull 20 times while holding the trigger all
of the way down, Of course with the damng ignition switch set to "ON"!!!!!!
If you still have not gotten it to "roar" momentarily, then you can rule out the fuel system!!!!!!!!!!

If it will hit and run momentarily, then you know what to do!!!!! Well maybe not!!!!!

If it won't hit and run a tad, then you have other problems, but since you have never even bothered to drfy out your turd, then you need to
stop wasting our time. We are not working on the space shuttle here!!!!

 

[Fish]

But all of this diddling around not doing anything anyone suggested pisses me off!!!!!

 

[angelo c]

Fish,

maybe you should consider decaf for a day or two....:hmm3grin2orange:

just kiddin ya !!!!

A

 

[Fish]

No, I just need to turn off the "puter" when I am "cookin" meth!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Fish]

I apologize, but a saw that will not even "hit", the problem area can be isolated in just a few minutes, this is not rocket science........

I did not say that the total problem could be layed out, but at least it could be isolated into one of the 3 areas quickly. But this thread has
been going in the other direction since post #1, because the O.P. won't do the proper steps.......

 

[cityboy]

I apologize, but a saw that will not even "hit", the problem area can be isolated in just a few minutes, this is not rocket science........

I did not say that the total problem could be layed out, but at least it could be isolated into one of the 3 areas quickly. But this thread has
been going in the other direction since post #1, because the O.P. won't do the proper steps.......

Fish,

First, I appreciate your trying to help me, so I'm not going to get into an argument over this, its not worth it. But I did dry out the saw, I'm not sure why you don't think I did. It didn't help. You asked me to pull the muffler so you could "see the scored piston" or something to that effect. I did that, and the piston was fine. I'm not sure what all you wanted me to do that I haven't done, you seem to be focused on screaming about the flooding never being addressed, but that's not true and I said so twice. But seriously, I agree with you 100% that this is too simple a problem to keep going on about it here, so I don't want to waste any more people's time with it.

Now that the saw is dry, I'm going to put a little mix in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, or in the carb throat, and see if it will fire. That will also answer the question of whether or not I'm getting spark under compression. I'm sorry it took so long to get to this point, I'm totally new to this. If I knew enough about saw diagnostics when the thread started, I would have probably done this step first. But I'm a newbie so I don't know what I'm doing, I'm trying to learn. I thought I was trying everything I was told to try (except pull the flywheel), so I'm a bit surprised that you're saying I haven't co-operated since post #1, I don't think that's true.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Put a small amount of fuel in the sparkplug hole. Replace plug. Turn on ignition. Give it a few pulls, it should fire if it has compression and spark at the proper time.

However, I have a 610 that appears to have lots of compression, has spark, I put a little fuel in it and couldn't get it to do anything. I guess it's something to look into this week.

 

[rms61moparman]

Fish,

First, I appreciate your trying to help me, so I'm not going to get into an argument over this, its not worth it. But I did dry out the saw, I'm not sure why you don't think I did. It didn't help. You asked me to pull the muffler so you could "see the scored piston" or something to that effect. I did that, and the piston was fine. I'm not sure what all you wanted me to do that I haven't done, you seem to be focused on screaming about the flooding never being addressed, but that's not true and I said so twice. But seriously, I agree with you 100% that this is too simple a problem to keep going on about it here, so I don't want to waste any more people's time with it.

Now that the saw is dry, I'm going to put a little mix in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, or in the carb throat, and see if it will fire. That will also answer the question of whether or not I'm getting spark under compression. I'm sorry it took so long to get to this point, I'm totally new to this. If I knew enough about saw diagnostics when the thread started, I would have probably done this step first. But I'm a newbie so I don't know what I'm doing, I'm trying to learn. I thought I was trying everything I was told to try (except pull the flywheel), so I'm a bit surprised that you're saying I haven't co-operated since post #1, I don't think that's true.

This happens here every now and then.
So many here were so anxious to help that you were trying to listen to them all at the same time.
Chainsaw diagnostics are really very simple but every mechanic, or hack in my case, has a different approach to it.
I like to start with the simplest (and usually cheapest) things first.
Others, depending on their level of experience and expertise with a certain model might try the "most likely" problem first.

Fish is probably one of the top ten best mechanics on this site and if you listen to him and do what he says exactly like he tells you to do it, you will know in short order what is wrong with your saw.
That is not to say that any of the other posters in this thread couldn't walk you through your diagnosis just as well, but the problem occurs when you try to follow too many of us at the same time.
Jumping from ignition, to compression, to fuel delivery then back to ignition and on to something else is the worst way in the world.
That is why I posted early and when I saw you had "too much" help, I beat feet to another thread.


Mike

 

[cityboy]

its running !!

This happens here every now and then.
So many here were so anxious to help that you were trying to listen to them all at the same time.
Chainsaw diagnostics are really very simple but every mechanic, or hack in my case, has a different approach to it.
I like to start with the simplest (and usually cheapest) things first.
Others, depending on their level of experience and expertise with a certain model might try the "most likely" problem first.

Fish is probably one of the top ten best mechanics on this site and if you listen to him and do what he says exactly like he tells you to do it, you will know in short order what is wrong with your saw.
That is not to say that any of the other posters in this thread couldn't walk you through your diagnosis just as well, but the problem occurs when you try to follow too many of us at the same time.
Jumping from ignition, to compression, to fuel delivery then back to ignition and on to something else is the worst way in the world.
That is why I posted early and when I saw you had "too much" help, I beat feet to another thread.


Mike

Saw is running, started a new thread about it because this one was beat to death, but wanted to close this one out too.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Fish]

So this is the new thread????

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/181022.htm#post3188041

Fly it in under the radar, why don't ya???????

 

[Fish]

Let us all beat it to death some more!!!!

 

[rms61moparman]

Looks like it was flooded!!!
Whoda thunkit???


Mike

 

[dom1971]

Mine is a 391, it has spark, new fuel and high compression. It just came in the mail today with fuel in it so I drained the fuel and put in new fuel, pulled a bucnch of times and got one small sputter- thats all. Pulled the plug and saw there was fuel on the plug. whats my next move? BTW, the guy used old motor oil for bar oil so I got rid of that and rinsed with denatured alcohol

 

[Strikert1]

I am experiencing a similar problem with a O28. Coil tested good. (tried a new coil), Compression 145, New fuel filter and line, new air filter, New spark plug, carb rebuilt, fresh fuel, installed ignition chip to replace points. It has started and run for 3 to 5 min. After I shut it down I can not get it to start again. Help

 

[Jason Richards]

Question, I have a string trimmer that has solid compression, new carburetor, new spark plug and a cleaned spark arrestor screen...it still will not start. What the heck am I missing?

Fuel is getting to the chamber, spark plug has strong blue spark with proper gauge, compression is at 115, idk what else to look at... any help?

Bit of history, owner said it was working day he dropped it off to me for a tune-up just smoking a little and spitting fuel out of the exhaust. Cleaned everything up and first pull it sputtered and started with no power. Now it won't even sputter. I have another trimmer a troybilt TB22EC that is doing the same thing. New carb, new fuel, new spark plug good compression at 110.. neither of them will start.

 

[rupedoggy]

Since when is 115 and 110 GOOD compression????????????

 

[Jason Richards]

Since the manufacturer recommends between 110 and 120. Is that not good from your experience? I deal mostly with lawn mowers...

 

[TBS]

Does the troy bilt have an electric start? Those o-rings that seal the e start can shrink and crack.

What brand/model is the other trimmer.

 

[Jason Richards]

Does the troy bilt have an electric start? Those o-rings that seal the e start can shrink and crack.

What brand/model is the other trimmer.

The other one is an ECHO SRM230. I have no idea what else to do to get these things firing up..