Rebuilding a Stihl 034, should I try it?

[cuinrearview]

Really no reason to try and create a problem that isn't there. I used to rotate the crank some, but I don't do that very often anymore. If I'm that suspicious I've probably already replaced a bunch of parts.

 

[dabills]

Really no reason to try and create a problem that isn't there. I used to rotate the crank some, but I don't do that very often anymore. If I'm that suspicious I've probably already replaced a bunch of parts.

Ok I'm going to run tests tonight and see how that goes. I didn't do vacuum because I had soapy water sitting everywhere and didn't want it to get sucked in. If it passes what's the next step. Can I deduce that the problem with piston was a bad fuel mixture?

Thanks all for your help!

 

[cuinrearview]

Ok I'm going to run tests tonight and see how that goes. I didn't do vacuum because I had soapy water sitting everywhere and didn't want it to get sucked in. If it passes what's the next step. Can I deduce that the problem with piston was a bad fuel mixture?

Thanks all for your help!

Bad mix, improper tune, or ingestion of sawdust or dirt due to poor air filter and chain maintenance.

 

[dabills]

Bad mix, improper tune, or ingestion of sawdust or dirt due to poor air filter and chain maintenance.

Ok I'm already rebuilding the carb, are there any other common maintenance issues I should tackle while I'm at it? I'm going to look around for air filter. Do you recommend I do fuel line or anything else?

 

[cuinrearview]

I would replace the fuel and impulse line. Possibly the intake boot. Look it over carefully. Use only OEM parts for this. Boot is around $35 at the dealer. I'm not sure if it fits your budget or not if it's still pliable.

 

[Sam R]

All of the screws take a T-27. The carb nuts I believe are 8mm. Flywheel nut should be 13mm or 1/2". The clutch is bigger, can't remember. Maybe 22mm? Some needle nose pliers and a small flat head screwdriver. That's about it.

Clutch is 19mm on virtually all saws I've ever worked on; same size as your spark plug.

 

[dabills]

I would replace the fuel and impulse line. Possibly the intake boot. Look it over carefully. Use only OEM parts for this. Boot is around $35 at the dealer. I'm not sure if it fits your budget or not if it's still pliable.

I bought all those things oem and they're on their way. Can someone point mein the direction of the correct air filter though I'm having trouble finding one. Thanks

 

[dabills]

Also I didn't get a fuel filter, is it ok to reuse it? If not could someone send me the one I'd need?

 

[cuinrearview]

Clutch is 19mm on virtually all saws I've ever worked on; same size as your spark plug.

I don't do enough Stihls to remember. The Hiskys take a special tool.

 

[SteveSr]

I bought all those things oem and they're on their way. Can someone point mein the direction of the correct air filter though I'm having trouble finding one. Thanks

Check the parts lists that I sent you. Also get out your magnifying glass and look for part numbers on the old one. You have to buy the filter in halves (2 pieces). There should be a part number stamped on each half (maybe on the inside) of the form 1125-xxx-xxxx. I think the part numbers are:

1125-120-1605
1125-120-1615

 

[SteveSr]

Also I didn't get a fuel filter, is it ok to reuse it? If not could someone send me the one I'd need?

NOT a good idea! Although you never posted photo, the early filters had a foam element that would disintegrate and lead to fuel starvation and possibly cause the damage that your saw experienced. Again get the part number from the 2013 IPL that I sent.

 

[Mad Professor]

Sounds like you passed your vac and pressure test, at least to me. When you eventually get a saw with a leak, you’ll get the “aha” moment of what it’s like. The Stihl manual calls for a less stringent test than we all do. I can’t recall the actual number, but it’s something like 8mm of Hg for 60 seconds. Can just say, any saw I’ve had that acted like it had a leak (but still ran ok) couldn’t achieve any vacuum or dropped like a lead ballon in under 10 seconds.

And yes, the 044 has the sleeve that mates with the crank and larger than usual seal. If you grease it for vac testing it holds up fine, it will pop out if you pressure test without the clutch on to hold it in place. The 036 has a stepped crank with a washer and sleeve, the 046 has a Spring clip mounted to a groove on the crank for the worm gear to ride on.

IMHO, the 044 spacer/bushing is a dumb design. They didn’t carry it over to the 046 for some reason.

Thanks.

So in the hell does the PTO side seal on an 044? I understand the seal meets bushing. But then you have space between bushing /crank. That is a LEAK!.

So if you leak test a 044 you will always have bubbles from PTO side?

 

[dabills]

Check the parts lists that I sent you. Also get out your magnifying glass and look for part numbers on the old one. You have to buy the filter in halves (2 pieces). There should be a part number stamped on each half (maybe on the inside) of the form 1125-xxx-xxxx. I think the part numbers are:

1125-120-1605
1125-120-1615

Those are listed but then these are also listed so I'm trying to figure out what is the right pair to get:

1125 120 1607
1125 120 1622

 

[dabills]

NOT a good idea! Although you never posted photo, the early filters had a foam element that would disintegrate and lead to fuel starvation and possibly cause the damage that your saw experienced. Again get the part number from the 2013 IPL that I sent.

Would it be better to go after market for this part and avoid the foam element?

 

[SteveSr]

Would it be better to go after market for this part and avoid the foam element?

Stihl stopped using the foam several decades ago. The new Stihl filters are good. AM filters (of all kinds) have been problematic.

 

[dabills]

Stihl stopped using the foam several decades ago. The new Stihl filters are good. AM filters (of all kinds) have been problematic.

Thanks

Figured out the filter fleeces I need:

1125-120-1615
1125-120-1620

Edit: Also ordered a newer oem fuel filter

 

[SteveSr]

Those are listed but then these are also listed so I'm trying to figure out what is the right pair to get:

1125 120 1607
1125 120 1622

I just looked at mine. You'll find the part numbers stamped (molded) in the plastic at the bottom of each half of the filter. It may be partially covered by the filter material. The part numbers that I have are:

-1615
-1620

You'll probably find same on your parts if you get out your magnifying glass.

 

[dabills]

I just looked at mine. You'll find the part numbers stamped (molded) in the plastic at the bottom of each half of the filter. It may be partially covered by the filter material. The part numbers that I have are:

-1615
-1620

You'll probably find same on your parts if you get out your magnifying glass.

Yep those are the correct numbers.

 

[SteveSr]

Also ordered a newer oem fuel filter

Good, which fuel line did you order? 8mm or 10mm hole? I upgraded mine to 10mm... It is a Stihl design "improvement"

Have you looked inside the metering chamber (4 little screws) of your carb yet? post a photo of what you find/found.

 

[huskihl]

Thanks.

So in the hell does the PTO side seal on an 044? I understand the seal meets bushing. But then you have space between bushing /crank. That is a LEAK!.

So if you leak test a 044 you will always have bubbles from PTO side?

Some smear grease between the crank and sleeve, some use a sealant. They don't leak when the clutch is tightened down