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It's been 3 years on the new module now, and I just finished milling some logs, and wanted to take a look at the piston and cylinder after a few hours of straight WOT use. Doesn't look like it has really changed, so that makes me question if the new module really does add more WOT fuel. If...

Those are significant gains. Was a brush or hone run through the bore, or was it left as is? I've found that freshly honed nikasil seats the rings much faster than not honing it.

Has anyone else actually measured cranking compression changes from new to broken in? My 462 gained about 5psi. I've seen cranking compression vary more due to atmospheric conditions and engine temp. Also, cranking compression isn't running compression. When the engine is running 12k rpm...

Gains from engine break in are more from decreasing drag than from "ring seal". New rings against a new cylinder have more friction than a seat of "seated" rings. This is the same reason why a 1 ring piston will usually produce more power than a 2 ring piston. Also the same reason why auto...

Agreed. Use a quality JASO FD oil instead. Ultra stinks and is dirty. I still buy a small pack of it to double my Stihl warranties, but I give the oil away. I don't even use it in my 4-mixes.

You have to keep in mind that in the US, "synthetic oil" can mean many things. It includes Group III, IV, and V oils. Group III is highly refined petroleum oil, while Group IV is PAO, and Group V is Ester. When I think true synthetic oils, I think Group IV and V. With that said, I haven't...

If the brake being on prevented you from pulling the cord, the clutch shoes were most likely stuck to the drum. I'd have to see the clutch to say for sure, but I'm betting something got hot there. Plastic cased clam shell saws do NOT like overheated clutches. It gets ugly quickly. Don't...

I've done quite a few that way without issue. Popped the limiter cap off and snapped it back on in a new position. You just have to be a little careful. Took all of 30 seconds.

I used the drywall screw method on my 261, and it popped right off without any damage. At sea level, it needed another 1/8 turn out past the stop. At 7-10k, I'd venture a guess yours is already fat.

I have personally found that some Mtronic saws like to have a warm restart with the master control switch in the triangle "start" position. Then when the engine starts, I blip the throttle within a second or so. If it dies, let it run in "start" position a bit longer. Don't be afraid to use...

If bar oil is more than about $6 a gal, I look elsewhere. A local farm store has been selling Mystik (Citgo) bar and chain for $4-5/gal, when it's on sale, so I stock up then. Stuff is pretty tacky. I also pick up CAM2 when it's on sale at another farm store for about $5. I've run all kinds...

Absolutely I can't figure out the desire to use skip chain for general purpose cutting. It's meant to be used in big wood, with big bars. A 60cc saw with an 18-20" bar doesn't need skip chain. I'd run non skip 3/8" semi or full chisel, with a 7 pin sprocket. I only run an 8 pin on my 90cc...

It's a little more complicated than that. Traditional "ashless" TCW3 oils will cause excessive varnish in the exhaust port and on/around the piston ring lands when used in an air cooled engine. The "low ash" additive package contained in JASO FC/FD oils help combat this, when used in higher...

TCW3 is technically an "ashless" oil by design, and has a different additive package vs. other 2 strokes. A water cooled outboard has much lower engine temps than an air cooled chainsaw engine, they run at a lower RPM, and are cross scavenged vs. loop scavenged. Long story short, use TCW3 in...

I have some genuine yellow Tygon line that is over 10 years old. It is still soft and hasn't lost its color.

Before you go throwing parts at it, check for spark. If you have spark, is it getting fuel? If it's getting fuel, is it flooding? If it's flooding, then I'd replace the solenoid and the fuel filter with the latest updates. Solenoid usually fails open, so it floods the engine. Have the model...

I'm not positive on Stihls, but a lot of other two strokes have a specific class of fit bearing for their crankshafts. It's not always an off the shelf part, even if the 4 digit number is the same. The clearance between the races and balls can be slightly different, as is the precision and rpm...

I'd just run a Rollomatic E bar and either 26RS or 26RM, both yellow label. Could get one of each and see what you like best. The RS cuts like a laser beam, and the RM lasts longer between sharpenings. I run a 16" on my 261. Anything bigger and I use my larger saws. I like my 261 to be light...

If you want increased time between sharpening, try an RM chain, over RS. RM won't cut quite as fast when new, but will hold that over a longer period of time. I cut quite a bit, and usually use RS, but I sharpen it after a couple tanks of fuel. It doesn't take much to take that point off of...