Advise on felling a leaner

[cantoo]

rare, with a 36" bar I wouldn't have to walk around the tree, I would do all the cutting from one side. Being right handed I prefer to cut with the lean to my left. If it was an inch or 2 wider than my bar I would cut maybe the inch or two from the far side 1st but that would be all I would cut. And I have no intention of climbing a leaning tree that has a rotten bottom, the shock loading of cutting the top out might make it fall?
This is the bush I cut in, it's a bit of a mess. I'm removing all the poplar, the ash and any leaning cedar. The last pic is what it looks like when I'm done cutting the crap out.

 

[GilksTreeFelling]

Haven't read all the reply yet. But
Two HD rar hey straps are cheap. One about a ft above face cut, another 2-3 ft above that. Make your face cut. Bore cut to set your hinge and work the saw out towards the back till there's about an inch or two of wood left on the back side. Set a wedge in the side kerfs cut the 1-2" strap of wood on the back side.
Bore cutting out from the hinge towards the back "should" release the tenaion that creates the barber chair effect relatively safely. The two ratchet straps should provide enough insurance so that if does chair you have enough time to get clear using one of your prepared escapare routes (you did prepare escape paths right). Make sure you have someone else within ear shot just in case something goes sideways
That's how I would deal with the situation. Obviously this is the internet and my advice is only worth what you paid for it.

 

[Marley5]

Very true but at least on the net we're all PRO'S. lol
BUT on a good note.....these are the kinda guy's i hang out with.

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

Very true but at least on the net we're all PRO'S. lol
BUT on a good note.....these are the kinda guy's i hang out with.

Net certified lumberjacks....
Money back guarantee!

 

[hseII]

#Long Bars Rule Here

 

[Trx250r180]

#Long Bars Rule Here

Sup sir

 

[hseII]

Sup sir

Winding Down Good Sir.

How About You?

 

[Trx250r180]

Winding Down Good Sir.

How About You?

This thread reminded me about Randys quote on straps and chains.
Be safe op ,you got the right saw ,there are 3 cuts i can think of to get it down safe,just practice on smaller stuff first is my best answer so you can see how leaners react .

 

[rarefish383]

rare, with a 36" bar I wouldn't have to walk around the tree, I would do all the cutting from one side. Being right handed I prefer to cut with the lean to my left. If it was an inch or 2 wider than my bar I would cut maybe the inch or two from the far side 1st but that would be all I would cut. And I have no intention of climbing a leaning tree that has a rotten bottom, the shock loading of cutting the top out might make it fall?
This is the bush I cut in, it's a bit of a mess. I'm removing all the poplar, the ash and any leaning cedar. The last pic is what it looks like when I'm done cutting the crap out.
View attachment 639909 View attachment 639910 View attachment 639911 View attachment 639912 View attachment 639913

You are working in a quagmire. I pretty much agree you would be OK with a 36", I was just worried he would reach across with his 32" and go too deep, with his chest too close as he was stretching. I sold my 52" Homelite to a member here a couple years ago and I sold my 46" Mac bar to another member a couple months ago. So, right now my big bar is a 36" on my 660. I want a 47" for my mill but I keep buying other stuff. Got an auction today with several saws I'd like.

 

[Marshy]

I didn't read every reply but the first two I read are terrible advice IMO. That is a perfect candidate for a bore cut. If it's hollow at the base theb make your cut at waist height or slightly higher and you should have better fibers to work with. I would still put a face cut in the tree but don't go deeper than the width of your bar. Leave about a 2" hinge and bore the center. Cut the trigger at the same plane or slightly lower than the bore cut. No chains or binders are necessary.

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

I didn't read every reply but the first two I read are terrible advice IMO. That is a perfect candidate for a bore cut. If it's hollow at the base theb make your cut at waist height or slightly higher and you should have better fibers to work with. I would still put a face cut in the tree but don't go deeper than the width of your bar. Leave about a 2" hinge and bore the center. Cut the trigger at the same plane or slightly lower than the bore cut. No chains or binders are necessary.

I agree, I didn't see the pics yesterday for some reason(not sure if it's the phone or slow Internet ) I can't really see the rot/decay he's referring to, but barring better pics, it looks pretty straight forward, albeit with a certain level of danger built in, just like every tree that size, especially with the degree of lean.
I would also say that if he's not completely confident, then he should find someone local with experience dealing with problem trees to either assess and instruct how to remove or to actually remove it or I guess just find another tree to play with.

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

I agree, I didn't see the pics yesterday for some reason(not sure if it's the phone or slow Internet ) I can't really see the rot/decay he's referring to, but barring better pics, it looks pretty straight forward, albeit with a certain level of danger built in, just like every tree that size, especially with the degree of lean.
I would also say that if he's not completely confident, then he should find someone local with experience dealing with problem trees to either assess and instruct how to remove or to actually remove it or I guess just find another tree to play with.

Although I would still wrap a strap, just due to not liking surprises.

 

[Marshy]

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

That's what he needs to be concerned with his experience and proficiency with a bore cut, and if not experienced, try on less iffy trees a couple times first. Make sure his chain is as sharp as he can get it and saw is operationally sound. And once the process starts, confidently severe the fibers and get back and definitely have a second or third person there for spotting and emergencies.

 

[chipper1]

That's what he needs to be concerned with his experience and proficiency with a bore cut, and if not experienced, try on less iffy trees a couple times first. Make sure his chain is as sharp as he can get it and saw is operationally sound. And once the process starts, confidently severe the fibers and get back and definitely have a second or third person there for spotting and emergencies.

The tree in the first post is not a tree for someone who has made one or two bore cuts.
A chain as sharp as he can get it could be a good thing, or it could be the thing that makes everything go bad.
If you need a spotter to tell you what's happening on a tree like this, your not the guy for the job.
Having someone there when your working in the woods is always a good idea.

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

The tree in the first post is not a tree for someone who has made one or two bore cuts.
A chain as sharp as he can get it could be a good thing, or it could be the thing that makes everything go bad.
If you need a spotter to tell you what's happening on a tree like this, your not the guy for the job.
Having someone there when your working in the woods is always a good idea.

I shouldn't have used the word "couple"so loosely, my apologies. Need appropriate experience in bore cutting.
And I never said he needed a spotter to tell him what's happening in or on a tree, even the most experienced faller feller,should ideally have a spotter with any questionable tree. And hopefully would not be required to say a word,but look at that canopy,all kind of crap up there that I would appreciate a warning ,no one can see everything. When my kids are lifting weights for the football team and benching 250 lbs and squatting a lot more than that,they've never needed a spotter, but common sense tells me that they should be there.
That being said , I have cut a lot of trees like this and some worse , by myself. That falls under the old Do as I say, not as I do policy. The only one that I can remember making me sweat was for my neighbor. Slightly smaller than this one ,but had to be felled parallel to their carport. Worrying about the carport probably kept me from worrying about the tree so much...(for better or for worse )

I almost forgot, will you learn me how a sharp chain could make it all go bad,as I have yet to experience that and need all the knowledge that I can aquire.

 

[chipper1]

I shouldn't have used the word "couple"so loosely, my apologies. Need appropriate experience in bore cutting.
And I never said he needed a spotter to tell him what's happening in or on a tree, even the most experienced faller feller,should ideally have a spotter with any questionable tree. And hopefully would not be required to say a word,but look at that canopy,all kind of crap up there that I would appreciate a warning ,no one can see everything. When my kids are lifting weights for the football team and benching 250 lbs and squatting a lot more than that,they've never needed a spotter, but common sense tells me that they should be there.
That being said , I have cut a lot of trees like this and some worse , by myself. That falls under the old Do as I say, not as I do policy. The only one that I can remember making me sweat was for my neighbor. Slightly smaller than this one ,but had to be felled parallel to their carport. Worrying about the carport probably kept me from worrying about the tree so much...(for better or for worse )

I almost forgot, will you learn me how a sharp chain could make it all go bad,as I have yet to experience that and need all the knowledge that I can aquire.

A chain as sharp as he can get it could be a good thing, or it could be the thing that makes everything go bad.

 

[Dolmar Enthusiast]

? Did you forget what you were going to tell me, or is there a hidden message in there for me to decipher??

 

[Beetlejuice]

I'm not much help on this subject.. I fly on instinct all Murphy's laws.. Park a nice, new 4x4 within reach of the tree, and parked where ya wish the tree to drop.. At this point it just don't matter what cut, who's cut, hinge cut, or even why cut.. Just started whittling (tech term) on that hummer.. When it finally sircomes to the ire of a sharp chain start the yelling.. TIMBEEEEEE!!!!O-****. And ta-daaaa. Right there on top of the truck..and beer money from insurance. Do not try this at home.. I am an untrained bullshitter. Cheers. K

 

[chipper1]

? Did you forget what you were going to tell me, or is there a hidden message in there for me to decipher??

No, it's highlighted, but I'll explain it .
I don't know his sharpening skills, so his sharpest chain might not be the best for the job, IDK. For many out of the box chain is way better than what they can do, if that's the case they probably aren't the person for the job either.