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Central boiler 350 build up

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by Iaff113, Jan 12, 2019.

  1. Iaff113

    Iaff113 ArboristSite Operative

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    Ok for the life of me I can’t figure this out. It’s my first year burning a CB 350 classic edge. I have to pull the main air inlet off every couple of weeks because it’s getting a river of creosote built up in it. I replaced the door seal I only burn ash that had been split and stacked for a year. And a mix of hard wood that had two years of season. I have read a lot on ways to keep this from happening. I always let my coal bed burn down to stay below the air holes. And stack wood back in per CB instruction, I have to water temp cut off at 190. Is this just a nature of this beast? I do not have a problem cleaning the tubes out ever couple weeks because it’s not hard. Just wish I could find a better tool for it.


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  2. VirginiaIron

    VirginiaIron ArboristSite Operative

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    Is your wood under 25% moisture? Around here, there is no way that uncovered wood is considered dry due to rain and moisture we experience. In Colorado, we could get away with not covering our wood. Your manual seems pretty detailed about split wood size (4-8), and moisture content, the caution of using unsplit wood, correct length, coal bed, etCetera...
     
  3. panolo

    panolo Seldom right...Always opinionated!

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    They have an update kit that replaces the inner airflow kit so it diverts most of the creosote. I check mine every 6 weeks and a couple things that helped keep it to nil. I run 192 with a 20 degree differential. Stove runs a little longer and higher temps. Also wood and the moisture of it. All my wood is 15% or less currently. The first year when I was in the 20+% range I got more creosote and was cleaning it every two weeks. I also have noticed that burning ash seems to create more creosote. The last few weeks with sugar maple and elm I have almost zero creosote.

    I have yet to add the update kit but a couple people I know did and it helps.
     
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  4. Iaff113

    Iaff113 ArboristSite Operative

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    I’m not sure what my moisture % is. All of my wood is split stacked off the ground and under tin for at least two years. So I wouldn’t think that would be a problem.


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  5. NSMaple1

    NSMaple1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Do you have return temperature protection? What is your return temperature range?
     
  6. Iaff113

    Iaff113 ArboristSite Operative

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    No I didn’t put a thermostatic valve in. I have such a short run. I’m getting 180+ back in the boiler.


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  7. VirginiaIron

    VirginiaIron ArboristSite Operative

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    I would think your wood is dry enough. Wow, 180* return doesn't seem like your heat load is too great and contributing. You might need to borrow a moisture meter to check your %. What is your supply temp?
     
  8. NSMaple1

    NSMaple1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Ya, 180 return sounds off. Most heating emitters would see at least a 20 dt. More if running a loop through more than 1 heat exchanger. Plus a few degrees for some piping losses.
     
  9. Iaff113

    Iaff113 ArboristSite Operative

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    Yeah I will have to look again this week when my heat load is at its highest. I’m set for 190 out and last time I looked it was around 180 back to the boiler. I’m only running it through 25 feet of thermopex and a 60 foot loop inside the house to one heat exchanger.


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  10. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Try putting less of a wood load in and making the unit work a little more. It seems to me your demand on the system isn't that great. I'm not familiar with those units but it just seems that would help rather than having the unit shut down most of the time.
     

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