Clearing the gullet, round filing

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Lobo

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Every so often I clear the gullet with my file before sharpening a tooth and as the chain wears back I normally use a larger file to get this task done.

Is anyone doing this differently, is there any other method I am not up on.
 
Am i the only one who puts a file to the gullet ?

Am I doing this needlessly then ?
 
Well Lobo, I have never fooled with the gullets but maybe I should be? One of the chain MFG sites, I think Carlton, has some good pics of properly taken care of hand filed chains. I keep close track of my rakers but have noticed a slight but distinct slowing of cutting speed as the cutters near beng worn out.
 
lobo

your not alone i also clean them out on round chain. i never timed the cut but i feel it helps.......i plan on ordering the silvey raker/ gullet grinder.
 
I was thinking about this last weekend

I noticed My father in law's jons 630 had the the gullets cleaned on a roundfiled oregon 73 his father was a logger and he has been on and off. so I figured maybe it had some merit, however the cutters themselves needed to be pointed up so then I was questioning whether or not he knew what he was doing and had any reason for removing the gullet? My father and uncles have logged for most of there lives and I don't remember seeing any of them removing the gullet. In my own thought process the cutting link will definately have more strength with the gullet in place and also help with proper file alignment for the top plate when free handing. But I haven't seen alot of broken teeth unless you hit something you shouldn't.Also if it was critical or even of high importance all chain and saw manufacturers would make an issue of it.
On the other hand race chains have the gullet removed and the whole chain skeletonized to save weight. Does anyone have anyother reason why the gullet should be removed? I am really glad this came up when it did I've been on the fence as to do this or not. I look forward to some insightfull replies.

Lucky
 
The gullet should be filed FLAT...not removed. This is, of course, a general rule and there will be fellas who do something different no matter what. Having a flat gullet means obtaining correct angle is easier, but it also reduces unnecessary "grab" of wood. I.e. if the gullet is all burred, etc, then it is giving more resistance to the cut...this is a killer to explain...however, if the gullet is kept flat then, in theory, this allows for a free flowing chain...if everything else is in order !!
And the hits just keep on comin' !
 
I found this during my search on using my chain sharpener, maybe it will help this thread.


Pro Saw Chain



Gullets Explained

How do gullets form?
Gullets form when chisel cutters are square ground or square filed.


Why do gullets have to be removed?
When gullets are allowed to get long, they make it difficult for the sharp cutter to get at the wood. This makes it difficult for the chain to feed. Here is the reason: Every time a cutter tooth is sharpened, it gets shorter. As the tooth becomes shorter, the "set" or the amount the cutter sticks out beyond its chasis is reduced, too. Gullets retain their set and if allowed to get too long, they rub in the cut. also, long gullets impede chip flow.


What is the best way to remove them?
Remove them with a round file or a grinder.


Why can't I grind out the gullets at the same time I am sharpening the tooth?
The stone (or file) angle necessary to sharpen square chisel chain makes it impossible to remove the gullet at the same time you sharpen it. If you attempt to do it, you will end up cutting into the chassis above the back rivet hole on the tie strap. Damage to the chassis in this area will weaken the chain and cause it to break. Some grinders are setup to remove more gullets than others, but no grinder is able to remove the gullet in the same process as sharpening.


How does the factory sharpen a chain without leaving a gullet?
This is a good question and it has a simple answer: They sharpen the cutter teeth before they assemble the chain. The factory doesn't have to worry about the tie strap under the cutter because it is not there.


Do the gullets need to be removed after each sharpening?
No. Most professional saw operators remove them every three to five sharpenings. It all depends on how much of the cutter tooth is ground off on each sharpening. Whenever the gullet grows beyond an 1/8" it needs to be removed.
 
The text posted above.....

....is from Madsens site, I think.

There is a lot of good info there, but some of it is disputable, as I understand it. :angel:
 
Butch(OH) said:
Well Lobo, I have never fooled with the gullets but maybe I should be? One of the chain MFG sites, I think Carlton, has some good pics of properly taken care of hand filed chains. I keep close track of my rakers but have noticed a slight but distinct slowing of cutting speed as the cutters near beng worn out.

I know I have found that Stihl RS chain cuts smooth and fast at .025" or maybe a couple thousandths more when it is NEW, but it needs to be at .035" when it is near the end of the cutter life to give the same effect. Something about how the cutter rocks up to take a bite of the wood...
 
Cleaning the gullet has been covered extensively on this site in the past and everyone who really knows how to sharpen a chain does it.

There are benefits relative to chip clearance when the gullets are kept clean or even hogged out as you might find on race chain, but possibly the most important reason to keep the gullets clean is that the side lead of the lower part of a cutter can actually exceed that of the working corner if the gullet is not properly maintained. In other words, the non-working, too far removed from the action, lower sideplate can contact the wood before the working corner does, resulting in either poor or no cutting at all.

CNYCountry makes a good point about the importance of progressively lowering the depth gauge as the tooth gets shorter.

Russ
 
CNYCountry said:
I know I have found that Stihl RS chain cuts smooth and fast at .025" or maybe a couple thousandths more when it is NEW, but it needs to be at .035" when it is near the end of the cutter life to give the same effect. Something about how the cutter rocks up to take a bite of the wood...

At first filing of a new chain and then on, I keep filing my rakers down a bit more than recommended. I have always done this as I like my chains a bit more self feeding than straight out of the box. However as I get older i find this more tiring on the arms also and this strains the old back more also.

I agree with you CNY as i do the same.
 
I wonder why every thread must now have at least one wise arsed reply? Pops always told me, "got nothing good to say? then keep your mouth shut" I am now going to follow that advise and bow out of here.
 
SawTroll said:
....is from Madsens site, I think.

There is a lot of good info there, but some of it is disputable, as I understand it. :angel:

Yes, it is. I thought I included the name on the bottom when I cut and pasted here. Guess I didn't.
 
Mike Maas said:
Butch, I answered the question. If you get a beak round filing, use the right size file. If you don't get it, you should bow out.

Then your filing to deep. check to see how much of the files diameter is above the cutter.

Mc Bob.
 
ozflea said:
Then your filing to deep. check to see how much of the files diameter is above the cutter.Mc Bob.
That is my main reason for using the Husky/E-lux/Oregon roller guides; They help you keep the file at the correct hight! ;)
 
I have a old bar that I cut of the mount off and put in a vise. the tip is almost straight up, this helps not to go down with the file, i use roller guides to sometimes.
 
Mange said:
I have a old bar that I cut of the mount off and put in a vise. the tip is almost straight up, this helps not to go down with the file, i use roller guides to sometimes.


That is a good idea Mange, I also haver been thinking about that type of set-up.

I was getting the idea from this which is not avilable in Canada:
 

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