Deburing Drive links

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Mikeb

chainsaw rebuild addict
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
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Location
central Kentucky
I recently took on the maintenance and repair of 10 stihl chainsaws that belong to a large non profit org. Ya they use them every day at the disaster sites. My question is does anyone have a better way of deburing the drive links on the chain, other than filing by hand. I have seen the saws come back with .325 chains with 050 on bars that are spec'ed for 3/8, .060. Cutter and chain look like new. I guess the volunteers think all chains are the same, as long as they fit the bar. Any help is greatly appreciated. You can email me at [email protected]
 
they make a chain deburring set up. I saw in just the other day in my stens book
 
Mike,

I also volunteer with a non-profit storm clean up group and have had to learn how to save/salvage abused chains. Volunteers and disasters are both hard in chains.

I frequently see drive links burred from jumping out of the guide bar groove when run too loose, or when branches get tangled.

Here's what I have learned:

1. Flat file on the burrs. Round file to reshape the scraper/ gullet portion if needed. I do this on a small anvil, small block of steel, or the back of a machinists vice.

Slow, but effective.

2. Hold loop 'inside out' and guide drive links against grinding wheel on a bench grinder.

Faster, but leaves rough finish.

3. As above, but use a 3M ScotchBrite (or equivalent) deburring wheel ($30 - $50).

About as fast as a grinding wheel, but leaves a smooth finish. ***My preferred method.*** Expensive, but 'pays for itself' by saving even a few chains.

4. 'Redneck Method #1' : force burred links through the bars till they loosen up.

Not always possible. Causes extra wear on bars and sprockets.

5. . 'Redneck Method #2': lay burred drive link on small anvil and flatten burrs with ball peen hammer. Then follow up with . 'Redneck Method #1'.

6. I guess you could also clean up the burrs with a Dremel type tool. Never tried it.

Philbert
 
I've done most of the 'right' and 'redneck' methods described by Philbert. Usually I'm in the field when this happens and use a flat file (just put a 12" mill bastard file in the saw box for this), a raker file, and/or a round chain file to get 'em cleaned up enough that they'll go in the bar and 'finish up' under power (with a loose fit for a few seconds before tensioning).

Once I had no file handy and instead 'filed'/ironed/beat the bunged up rakers to where they'd go on the bar and move (for the 'on the bar finishing) using a couple flat rocks and the blade end of my scrench. That SUCKED, but it worked.

I've also used a dremel too with a reinforced cutoff wheel to CAREFULLY dress the drivers. Works but is slow.
 
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Thanks Guys for the reply's. I looked at Stens book but did not see anything. I guess I will be spending a lot of time with a flat file and drive links to try to get the chains back into shape. I've got 21 chains to do, ho hum. Philbert, what is the name of the non-profit you do the work for. My wife is the Director of Disaster Relief, US Response for All Hands Volunteer. We were in Washington, Ill. for 3 weeks. A lot of devastation in a very concentrated area. Again thanks for the help.
 
For an operation such as this I would think that standardizing the gauge of chain you run would yield benefits. I would also suggest checking the chain session at the beginning of the day as well as when the saws are refueled.
 
For an operation such as this I would think that standardizing the gauge of chain you run would yield benefits. I would also suggest checking the chain session at the beginning of the day as well as when the saws are refueled.
We are in the process of doing just that, it should alleviate most of my problems. Also putting together a PPT presentation for training and daily checks which include what to look for, ect. Hope this will help the overall expense
 
I looked at standardizing chains on our saws years ago. Decided it was better to match the chains to the saws.

Also found that it was easiest to stick with the 'default' bar and chain combos recommended by the manufacturer, because those were the easiest to find when working in different places.

Standardizing on one brand of saw did make training, parts inventory, and maintenance easier.

Philbert
 
I am working with MS 261, Ms 362 and Ms 460. Trying to find a balance between all three. We do 25% tree and limb removal and75 % rebuild/or demolition/rehap . Issue within the disaster community, lets get it done asap, not great on equipment. It is a work in progress
 

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