Depth Gauge Tools for Saw Chain

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Lately I've been thinking about a different way to adjust my rakers. Maybe someone has already tried this and can let me know what their experience was and if it's a good idea.

My idea was to file the back edge off the raker forward (towards the chain rotation direction) to set the raker height. This will widen the gullet area and retain the profile of the raker.

Thoughts?
 
That is the way I have always filed the rakers to set them. I don't see anything wrong with that and have gotten good results.
 
Adjustable depth gauge from the 60's.
Very cool!

Does not look that difficult to make something similar, if a fellow wanted to go that route.

My idea was to file the back edge off the raker forward (towards the chain rotation direction) to set the raker height. This will widen the gullet area and retain the profile of the raker. Thoughts?

Interesting idea.

That would also shorten the length of the depth gauges, which might cause them to dig in a bit more. But that is something that is done on some race chains. I assume there would be a practical limit of how far you would want to go before you went back to more conventional filing of the height.

Philbert
 
I just use the stihl 2in1 file, it does it automatically as you sharpen the chain and never had a problem with it ever, I've been cutting on average 2 ton of wood per day for the last few weeks now in lots of different Aussie hardwoods and this setup is quick and easy to use and does a great job.
 
View attachment 423409
I have some 'SW' marked chain. The appearance is similar to Sanvik and Windsor marked chains of the same types (e.g. chisel or semi-chisel, etc.). If the pitch, gauge, and DL count are OK, no reason not to run it. If you are getting dust, the basic sharpening rules apply: sharp bevels on the top and side plates, check your depth gauges, and (preferably) make all cutters the same (lengths, angles, etc.).

Philbert
Yes, that is Windsor chain. SW was stamped on parts after Sandvik acquired them.
 
FYI - ran across a few 'New Old Stock' File-O-Plates (NOS FOP!), that illustrate how they were very simple, but chain specific.

These have been 're-homed' with someone who might actually have some Carlton .354 and .365 chains!

Philbert
View attachment 426809
These were so simple, and worked very well. BTW the .365" was their designation for the N1C chain (3/8" LP)
 
Kept my eye out for one of these for awhile (since seeing it in another A.S. post!) - Oregon adjustable depth gauge tool.

Have not 'played' with it yet to determine how much each 'click' changes the depth gauge setting.

Philbert

.005" per "click" I believe
 
This stuff ain't that complicated, just buy a DG that suits, seems to me that most have a .25 or .30 gauge to choose from so pick which one you are happy to use and go for it (personally don't see much diff between the 2 options.
 
Found these in response to another post. ***Started a separate thread to discuss***:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-progressive-depth-gauge-tool.336757/

Screen shot 2019-10-31 at 9.48.54 AM.png


Tools for MS-cutting attachment maintenance: File gauge

For manual reworking of the depth gauge made from hardened steel with special coating. Two settings for hard and soft wood. Using the hook, both the groove in the bar and the bar's oil hole can be cleaned.

File gauge .404" 00008934010
File gauge 3/8" 00008934009
File gauge .325" 00008934008
File gauge 3/8"P 00008934007
File gauge 1/4"P 00008934006

STIHL 'FL1 - FL5 ' (might not be available through USA dealers):
https://www.stihl.com/sharpening-saw-chain.aspx (link to video)

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-t...ent-maintenance/267816-63674/File-gauges.aspx

Philbert
 
After a while in learning this I can look down the bar and see the shallow rakers that need to be filed. On a new chain after a few filings the raker is almost flush with the top of the tooth. I make two passes on each raker so there all even with a flat file. I haven’t used a raker gauge in decades.

When I use a round file with the file n guide I make the same amount of passes on each tooth too.


On any new chain I first put on I open up the gullet right away. Then it’s the file n guide only. Till the gullet is shallow then I open up the gullet farther back.
 
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