Depth gauge tool

[chipper1]

I hear you it's not so much the guides and angles for me it's like When you said what are you looking for at the end result it's like I get there and I feel like it's not sharp enough and I go a bit more than I have a rip and hook What I should do is is take it Layer by layer Sharpen a bit then cut and sharpen then cut.. Another thing I'm hung up on is I can get my my tooth looking How it's supposed to on on round full chisel But sometimes you don't pick up a burr.. On the top plate but yet You're hook and gullet are perfect So I'm like am I done but I never got a burr on the top plate.. So I'm back-and-forth with myself about a clean edge on the top plate and I keep going pulling back, and now I ruined my hook.. So yeah I can file but it's the end result what I'm looking for knowing when I see it. And the same thing with semi chisel, I know the point isn't supposed to come together like full chisel but still, knowing What the point comes to, what it's supposed to look like on semi chisel Is a little tricky for me.

Just because you don't see the chrome peel doesn't mean your cutter isn't sharp.
Get a new chain and keep it beside you when you file(same for the semi-chisel), and then make the used one look similar. It won't look exact, put it will give you an idea of how it should look. When it looks similar, go out and cut with it and see how it feels.
The fact that you are paying attention to it tells me you are on the right path to figuring it out.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Just because you don't see the chrome peel doesn't mean your cutter isn't sharp.
Get a new chain and keep it beside you when you file(same for the semi-chisel), and then make the used one look similar. It won't look exact, put it will give you an idea of how it should look. When it looks similar, go out and cut with it and see how it feels.
The fact that you are paying attention to it tells me you are on the right path to figuring it out.

I would argue that you need to raise a burr in order to get it as sharp as possible. Sure it will cut without doing that, but not as sharp as it can be.

 

[cutter0103]

Just because you don't see the chrome peel doesn't mean your cutter isn't sharp.
Get a new chain and keep it beside you when you file(same for the semi-chisel), and then make the used one look similar. It won't look exact, put it will give you an idea of how it should look. When it looks similar, go out and cut with it and see how it feels.
The fact that you are paying attention to it tells me you are on the right path to figuring it out.

Definitely chipper. I'm all ears on this , hand filing round full chisel is a no Brainer if you know how to. Just wanna get there. Great idea I should have thought of that. Use as a template. You're right though I think my problem each time is I keep trying keep trying to go from start to finish to a good tooth rather than like we said sharp if we said sharpen some mirror the new chain go test it redo redo redo until optimal.

 

[Okie]

A wake up call is when you go to cut a small whippy limb about face high on a cold day and the chain grabs the limb and it whips you across the face and leaves red mark or blood streak and you notice afterwards that your drawers are also slightly damp.

I think to myself I might have taken a little to much off them rakers for doing limb trimming.

After a few times of this you will not do any casual limb trimming at face high level.

 

[cutter0103]

Definitely chipper. I'm all ears on this , hand filing round full chisel is a no Brainer if you know how to. Just wanna get there. Great idea I should have thought of that. Use as a template. You're right though I think my problem each time is I keep trying keep trying to go from start to finish to a good tooth rather than like we said sharp if we said sharpen some mirror the new chain go test it redo redo redo until

I would argue that you need to raise a burr in order to get it as sharp as possible. Sure it will cut without doing that, but not as sharp as it can b

Haha many ways to learn a good lesson. Do that enough times will get it in your head

 

[Philbert]

I've watched video after video but it's crazy how once you're sitting behind the saw ready to sharpen u get in and bam scewing up the chain .. that fast. Are there any videos or things on YouTube anyone recommends? Is there a facility/ company/ or somewhere a guy can go to get a 1 on 1 lesson. The videos I've seen just aren't sinking in, it seems so easy which feels like a harder kick in the ... suggestions

Sharpening is a skill that develops over time.

Different people learn different ways. Videos might not be the best way for you, compared to in person instruction or coaching.

Where do you live? Maybe a member lives close enough to be a mentor? Maybe someone at a GTG?

There are different approaches, different filing guides/ jigs, etc.Too many different methods can be confusing; sticking with one method and one coach might be better.

Some things will click (I GOT it!), but mostly plan on understanding what you are trying to achieve, and getting better over time, with practice and experience.

Philbert

 

[cutter0103]

Sharpening is a skill that develops over time.

Different people learn different ways. Videos might not be the best way for you, compared to in person instruction or coaching.

Where do you live? Maybe a member lives close enough to be a mentor? Maybe someone at a GTG?

There are different approaches, different filing guides/ jigs, etc.Too many different methods can be confusing; sticking with one method and one coach might be better.

Some things will click (I GOT it!), but mostly plan on understanding what you are trying to achieve, and getting better over time, with practice and experience.

Philbert

Philbert that's a good idea, I'm in central New Jersey, before you all laugh, we actually do have some trees around here, despite being an overcrowded state haha. I'm even trying to see if there are any workshops or informational expos near by. Yea a coach would be ideal. I was thinking of going to every tree service around my area and asking in the shops, there's got to be 1 ace in one of those places.

 

[sean donato]

I changed one thing here, the first word.
Many simply use it to reduce the amount of cutters they have to sharpen.


Two here, will both times.
While it could cause areas of certain chains not to be filed, it's not the case on many.
I've seen this happen on some older stihl chain that called for a 10 degree tilt and the guy was sharpening without it. Very understandable for a guy used to stihl chains that mostly do not have the tilt incorporated into them.

Not sure what you mean.

I agree with the skip/semi skip. Most run it so there arnt as many cutters, or the saws too gutless to pull full comp.

The tilt thing I laughed like crazy about. The cutter doesn't care if you tilted 10"down or not. File till the whole edge is sharp. Stay consistent with your angles and move on.

 

[sean donato]

I would argue that you need to raise a burr in order to get it as sharp as possible. Sure it will cut without doing that, but not as sharp as it can be.

You should be able to watch the burr get removed by the file. It will just kinda flake off and your sharp right to the edge of the cutter.

 

[cutter0103]

I agree with the skip/semi skip. Most run it so there arnt as many cutters, or the saws too gutless to pull full comp.

The tilt thing I laughed like crazy about. The cutter doesn't care if you tilted 10"down or not. File till the whole edge is sharp. Stay consistent with your angles and move on.

Definitely straight fact got it

 

[chipper1]

You should be able to watch the burr get removed by the file. It will just kinda flake off and your sharp right to the edge of the cutter.

So no burr, no sharp?

 

[cutter0103]

You should be able to watch the burr get removed by the file. It will just kinda flake off and your sharp right to the edge of the cutter.

I was using a 3/16 stihl round file on a .325 husky semi chisel chain and I couldn't get a burr for sh#t. I may have saw small burrs but I couldn't tell if it was desired effect

 

[cutter0103]

I was using a 3/16 stihl round file on a .325 husky semi chisel chain and I couldn't get a burr for sh#t. I may have saw small burrs but I couldn't tell if it was desired effect

On semi chisel, you're never going to get a point obviously like full chisel, but the end result should be, just a nice C ,and every part of the tooth smooth?

 

[sean donato]

So no burr, no sharp?

The burr is indicating you've sharpened the cutter (or blade) all the way to the very edge. A gentle swipe will remove it. Or just leave it, fire time it hits the wood it will break off anyway.

 

[sean donato]

On semi chisel, you're never going to get a point obviously like full chisel, but the end result should be, just a nice C ,and every part of the tooth smooth?

Pretty much

 

[chipper1]

The burr is indicating you've sharpened the cutter (or blade) all the way to the very edge. A gentle swipe will remove it. Or just leave it, fire time it hits the wood it will break off anyway.

On the top plate, or the side plate.
I often don't have any on the top plate when filing, when I do I file until it's gone.
But I don't always file with the file parallel to the witness mark when I start. I start with the file perpendicular to the bar and file under the top plate a bit until the working corner is nearly sharp (takes longer on a damaged chain obviously), then I slowly rotate the file towards the same angle as the witness mark until it's at the same angle, then I run a couple more light passes on it.
Even filing at the same angle as the witness marks, I still don't always see a burr come off the top plate.

 

[sean donato]

Top plate, I actually don't look too much at the side plate till I'm "done" with that specific cutter. I try to stay fairly true to the witness mark during filing, depending on end results I'm going after. I can usually see the burr flake off. Not always, but after inspecting the cutter, it typically seems just as sharp and looks just like the others I have watched the burr flake off of. I'd hazard a guess most don't look for it, or expect one fine sliver. Often times I find it's a pass or two till the entire burr flakes. Idk is its just my inconsistencies, or that I tend to lighten up pressure on those final strokes.

 

[chipper1]

Top plate, I actually don't look too much at the side plate till I'm "done" with that specific cutter. I try to stay fairly true to the witness mark during filing, depending on end results I'm going after. I can usually see the burr flake off. Not always, but after inspecting the cutter, it typically seems just as sharp and looks just like the others I have watched the burr flake off of. I'd hazard a guess most don't look for it, or expect one fine sliver. Often times I find it's a pass or two till the entire burr flakes. Idk is its just my inconsistencies, or that I tend to lighten up pressure on those final strokes.

I'm looking right at the edge of the top plate, watching it the whole time I file, if it came off, I'd see it .
I wouldn't expect to see it when I sharpen the way I described in my last post, as I bring the top plate back slowly as I'm bringing the angle back to where it should be, that should make any pieces of chrome smaller in size vs one large burr across the whole cutting edge.

 

[sean donato]

I'm looking right at the edge of the top plate, watching it the whole time I file, if it came off, I'd see it .
I wouldn't expect to see it when I sharpen the way I described in my last post, as I bring the top plate back slowly as I'm bringing the angle back to where it should be, that should make any pieces of chrome smaller in size vs one large burr across the whole cutting edge.

Yeah I think I can imagine what your saying, and would agree it should be very small sections. Just a you vs me way of doing the same thing I'd like to think.
Question, doesn't that thin the outside of the top plate farther back then you really need it?

 

[chipper1]

Yeah I think I can imagine what your saying, and would agree it should be very small sections. Just a you vs me way of doing the same thing I'd like to think.
Question, doesn't that thin the outside of the top plate farther back then you really need it?

No, when I do it, one of my main objectives is to get the file under the working corner where it should be, which gives me a ledge to hold the file. I find this especially helpful if you removed the gullet the prior sharpening, as there is nothing to rest your file on and more chance you will start to file too low.
Interesting enough, if you read thru the materials on square filing, they say not to remove the shelf completely.