Depth gauge tool

[cutter0103]

Pretty much

Good to know

 

[cutter0103]

On the top plate, or the side plate.
I often don't have any on the top plate when filing, when I do I file until it's gone.
But I don't always file with the file parallel to the witness mark when I start. I start with the file perpendicular to the bar and file under the top plate a bit until the working corner is nearly sharp (takes longer on a damaged chain obviously), then I slowly rotate the file towards the same angle as the witness mark until it's at the same angle, then I run a couple more light passes on it.
Even filing at the same angle as the witness marks, I still don't always see a burr come off the top plate.

Dam that combo is perfect.. perpendicular to bar, then change the angle. I would have never thought

 

[cutter0103]

Top plate, I actually don't look too much at the side plate till I'm "done" with that specific cutter. I try to stay fairly true to the witness mark during filing, depending on end results I'm going after. I can usually see the burr flake off. Not always, but after inspecting the cutter, it typically seems just as sharp and looks just like the others I have watched the burr flake off of. I'd hazard a guess most don't look for it, or expect one fine sliver. Often times I find it's a pass or two till the entire burr flakes. Idk is its just my inconsistencies, or that I tend to lighten up pressure on those final strokes.

Damm all this is gold

 

[Lionsfan]

You should be able to watch the burr get removed by the file. It will just kinda flake off and your sharp right to the edge of the cutter.

Brings up an interesting point. How good is your eyesight cutter0103? I can't work off a stump or the tailgate of pickup like I could in my 20's. I have to clamp the bar in the vise, take my bi-focals off and get right up there under a good fluorescent light to see what's going on.

 

[cutter0103]

Brings up an interesting point. How good is your eyesight cutter0103? I can't work off a stump or the tailgate of pickup like I could in my 20's. I have to clamp the bar in the vise, take my bi-focals off and get right up there under a good fluorescent light to see what's going on.
[/QUOTE

Brings up an interesting point. How good is your eyesight cutter0103? I can't work off a stump or the tailgate of pickup like I could in my 20's. I have to clamp the bar in the vise, take my bi-focals off and get right up there under a good fluorescent light to see what's going on.

Very good point Lions, I mean I'm sharpening usually outside, in a vice on a bench, waist height, don't get met me wrong I've seen flakes and othe metal being removed while filing, but now I'm thinking, dam it's so subtle when it happens, might kiss a burr or 2 in blink off an eye. Going to try to pay more attention, and see how a magnifying glass might do

 

[sean donato]

Brings up an interesting point. How good is your eyesight cutter0103? I can't work off a stump or the tailgate of pickup like I could in my 20's. I have to clamp the bar in the vise, take my bi-focals off and get right up there under a good fluorescent light to see what's going on.

I have excellent eyesight right now. Hearing not so much. Doesn't make much of a difference if I'm in the field or at home in the vice to me. Now of were talking about my old man. Well just say I sharpen his chains for him.

 

[sean donato]

No, when I do it, one of my main objectives is to get the file under the working corner where it should be, which gives me a ledge to hold the file. I find this especially helpful if you removed the gullet the prior sharpening, as there is nothing to rest your file on and more chance you will start to file too low.
Interesting enough, if you read thru the materials on square filing, they say not to remove the shelf completely.

I got pretty lazy with my gullet, then tend to go after them hard, then need to "reset" myself to get the file up where it needs to be. It's an odd way of doing it. I may try a chain doing your style. See what results I get.
I do need to practice my square filing more. I'm just ok at it, and struggle to keep my working corner angles right. End up taking off more then I need to. They still cut well, just not as well as I'd like them too, or rather not as well as I think they should.

 

[chipper1]

I got pretty lazy with my gullet, then tend to go after them hard, then need to "reset" myself to get the file up where it needs to be. It's an odd way of doing it. I may try a chain doing your style. See what results I get.
I do need to practice my square filing more. I'm just ok at it, and struggle to keep my working corner angles right. End up taking off more then I need to. They still cut well, just not as well as I'd like them too, or rather not as well as I think they should.

I've never seen anyone else do it as I described, (Buckin Billy does the "boat", maybe I need to name it lol) it's just something I figured out worked well for me. Another thing it helps with is getting my top plate angle more exact in relation the the witness marks. After filing the working corner, and I'm bringing the file back to the angle of the witness marks it's easy to see the angle is wrong, the more you bring it back, it's easy to see when you get it right. This can be helpful when using a 10 degree tilt too because you are watching the cutters angle more than the files angle, which will not be the same.

 

[Philbert]

So no burr, no sharp?

The burr is indicating you've sharpened the cutter (or blade) all the way to the very edge. A gentle swipe will remove it. Or just leave it, fire time it hits the wood it will break off anyway.

I’m not convinced about a burr. ‘Sharp’ for a scalpel or razor blade is one thing. Slamming something into tree bark 20 times per second takes a different kind of edge.

If it is too fine, it won’t hold up. Old joke about race chains is that they are good for 3 cuts: 2 down and 1 up!

Philbert

 

[sean donato]

I’m not convinced about a burr. ‘Sharp’ for a scalpel or razor blade is one thing. Slamming something into tree bark 20 times per second takes a different kind of edge.

If it is too fine, it won’t hold up. Old joke about race chains is that they are good for 3 cuts: 2 down and 1 up!

Philbert

It's not unlike a knife edge though, and we're not really slamming them into the wood per say, at least not any more or less then say a router, or planer ect. Then again we're only getting so fine of an edge using a file and not changing over to a fine grit, so the burr is actually pretty corse when it comes off.

 

[Batt4Christ]

Please don't judge, this might sound silly.. I've been using saws for a long time yet I can't hand file for sh#t. I've been trying it for a couple of months and still.. even now it's always a mixed bag.. ha.. no consistency. This might sound stupid.. I've watched video after video but it's crazy how once you're sitting behind the saw ready to sharpen u get in and bam scewing up the chain .. that fast. Are there any videos or things on YouTube anyone recommends? Is there a facility/ company/ or somewhere a guy can go to get a 1 on 1 lesson. The videos I've seen just aren't sinking in, it seems so easy which feels like a harder kick in the ... suggestions

The Stih 2-in-one is about as close to idiot -proof as imaginable.

 

[5155]

Chipper mentioned shelf.
I've seen this in pics and assume the roller will leave a shelf on my cutters.
Question. Will leaving a sharp shelf generally make the cutter less grabby?
I do realize less hook will help with grabby.

Many demonstrations show cutting a cant or log at hip height.
Real world cutting around brush and vines is not always the same.

 

[chipper1]

Chipper mentioned shelf.
I've seen this in pics and assume the roller will leave a shelf on my cutters.
Question. Will leaving a sharp shelf generally make the cutter less grabby?
I do realize less hook will help with grabby.

Many demonstrations show cutting a cant or log at hip height.
Real world cutting around brush and vines is not always the same.

The shelf is actually the gullet(much of which should be filed away, there is none left once the chain is filed back further), it will either be at zero degrees or at the 10 degrees of tilt, based on how you sharpen. The side plate (back portion of where you file) will have the same angle as the top plate (typically 25-35 degrees for cutting across the grain).
The roller guide will leave a shelf when the chain is newer, not so much when it's back past half way where the cutter is shorter.
Yes, less hook(or side plate angle) will help with grabby, but it will not self feed as well and you will need to drop the rakers lower to get it to feed. When sharpening semi-chisel I add a little more hook so it feeds better, but I loose a little of the strength/ longevity you gain from using SC. In frozen or dirty wood I will use the stock hook on SC, for full-chisel I use a larger file or raise the file up on the cutter to reduce the hook for longevity.
One caveat to all this is the way many of the new chains are being ground from the factory, particularly the Oregon EXL and the new Husky x-cut chains. They have a very aggressive hook, you would need to hold the file nearly under the cutter to achieve the same angle. But this angle does not continue to follow the same arc as if you were filing with a 3/16 file held a little low, but rather it changes about .010-.015 below the top plate to have an arc much like a 7/32 or 13/64 file. You will find it's nearly impossible to hand file a chain as those chains come from the factory, especially using only one size file.
Not sure what you mean with regards to adding the vines and brush into the picture, it just means you need to watch the tip closer, same when cutting on a log pile(which I do not recommend for new cutters as it can be very dangerous).

 

[75jeff]

I have an assortment of McCulloch branded Carlton style File-O-Plates to fit various chain sizes and types if anyone is interested.

View attachment 1024112

View attachment 1024113

View attachment 1024114

Mark

I’m not familiar with mcculloch, do u know if any of those will work on 3/8“ chisel chain?

 

[heimannm]

218738 is for 3/8 pitch round filed chisel chain.

Mark