Help with Fairbanks Morse recoil starters please

[heimannm]

I have three older saws that have the Fairbank Morse recoil starter, a Strunk Shur Kut, Bolens Thrifty, and Wright GS5020. The Strunk and the Bolens both have a lot of problems with the pawls not catching. Does anyone out there have experience on how to make these things work? I have tried to carefully grind the leading edge to maintain a sharp point to grab the starter cup on the Bolens but is still misses as much as it catches. Are there replacement parts (pawls, friction discs, etc.) available for these anywhere?

Thanks,

 

[cbfarmall]

Couple things:

Off the top of my head I know that Stihl 045s, 075s, and 090s used these starters. Stihl sells the pawl assembly, don't recall what I paid for it. And also the friction disks, washers and spring.

Maybe you could flip the dogs around. If the drum it engages is wore out, you'll be out of luck. The 045s have a replaceable nylon insert, and the 090 has a metal insert.

I know they do not like oil. I cleaned up an old Poulan once and lubricated the pawls. Starter wouldn't grab at all. So I tore it down and cleaned it with brake cleaner and it worked like a charm.

Chris B.

 

[Jacob J.]

I think the Stihl friction starter mechanisms, though similar to the Fairbanks-Morse in design and function, are a different size or have different sized components. I remember trying to graft some parts from an early 045 starter onto the starter for a West Bend engine and it was a no-go.

Replacement parts for these are around, at sites like http://www.npadist.com/dog.htm

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have three older saws that have the Fairbank Morse recoil starter, a Strunk Shur Kut, Bolens Thrifty, and Wright GS5020. The Strunk and the Bolens both have a lot of problems with the pawls not catching. Does anyone out there have experience on how to make these things work? I have tried to carefully grind the leading edge to maintain a sharp point to grab the starter cup on the Bolens but is still misses as much as it catches. Are there replacement parts (pawls, friction discs, etc.) available for these anywhere?

Thanks,

I work on the old Fairbanks Morse starters on my saws of which most vintage saws use. If the starter cups are not worn out too far the most common problem is the starter pawls not extending when the rope is pulled. The friction washers and the spring pressure has to be correct to cause the pawls to extend when the recoil revolves. I count myself lucky as I bought out a saw repair shops left over stock of starter cups, pawls washers etc and have not had to look around for any lately. They are out there but you have to look for them, the old standby eBay and some of the eBay stores have some. I will measure my 5020 and see if I have spares, the bolens I don`t have one to measure but I have a few Strunk saws I will also measure . Pioneerguy600

 

[jonesec]

The really old Pioneers had them. I seem to remember someone posting a reply a good while ago about them.

I have an old 620 that was having the same issues. I cleaned the washers off and made the mistake of greasing them slightly-- didn't work at all. So I cleaned them completely and reassembled them and it worked fine. The washers have to catch, and any grease on them makes them not work.

 

[mbopp]

Some old Homelites used them along with snowmobile engines.

If the cup is aluminum you may be able to TIG or MIG some material on the worn section & machine it to spec. Or machine it out & press a ring in. Maybe use JB Weld or Devcon Plastic Steel to build it up?

 

[Edge & Engine]

If it's the same as the FB starters that Homelite used, the cups & pawls are still available.

(off topic) mbopp, sent you a pm.

 

[heimannm]

Update

Found a site (NPA something or other) and among the things he offers is new starter pawls, ordered a couple of sets just to see. He thought he had some of the clutch washers and friction washers as well. Hopefully the parts will show up before Saturday as I am leaving to Argentina for a week. I will try to let you know how it goes...

Mark

 

[rxe]

I work on the old Fairbanks Morse starters on my saws of which most vintage saws use. If the starter cups are not worn out too far the most common problem is the starter pawls not extending when the rope is pulled. The friction washers and the spring pressure has to be correct to cause the pawls to extend when the recoil revolves. I count myself lucky as I bought out a saw repair shops left over stock of starter cups, pawls washers etc and have not had to look around for any lately. They are out there but you have to look for them, the old standby eBay and some of the eBay stores have some. I will measure my 5020 and see if I have spares, the bolens I don`t have one to measure but I have a few Strunk saws I will also measure . Pioneerguy600

+1 on the friction washers.

I fixed mine on an 070 2 nights ago. I assumed that I needed a new cup and pawls, and was about to order them from Cheap Stihl Parts...but then I decided to fiddle.

The pawls only extend if the friction washers are gripping the assembly hard enough. If there is not enough friction, then they will only come out if you spin it really fast - and will lead to the "catching and missing" that we feel.

You need a friction washer on each side of the pawl assembly - these will be made of "friction material" - sort of fibrous stuff. I was missing one, and made a new one out of leather - it works fine. There will be other washers separating all of this from the rest of the starter - look at an IPL. Anything missing = no friction = no pawl extension = no starting.

A quick test. Take the starter off and pull the cord slowly. If the pawls don't extend, you have a friction problem. If they do extend, then you have a pawl/cup problem. On an 070 the leading pawl needs to be sharp - ground to a 60 degree angle. The get blunt with use, and may need cleaning up.

 

[belgian]

Looks as if all collectors have the same problems...:chainsawguy:

just check out this link

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=51777&highlight=starter+stihl

 

[67L36Driver]

Bump for an old thread.

Where to get the double 'D' fiber or leather friction washers?

Given they were used years ago on many, many lawnmowers and other OPE there should be a source out there.

 

[heimannm]

Carl - It has been a while since I used any but NPA sent me a box of 25 or so of each way back then.

If I ever get home I will see what is left in the drawer with the other starter parts.

Mark

 

[TALLGUY]

Rotary # 1570 Fibre Washer For Fairbanks morse # 29521
Has anyone tried the after market washers I see Stens and Rotary make washers for this use. I just wonder if they are for the smaller size starter.
FAIRBANKS MORSE 10-27-80
STENS 630-012
SUNBELT B1SP70

 

[67L36Driver]

Rotary # 1570 Fibre Washer For Fairbanks morse # 29521
Has anyone tried the after market washers I see Stens and Rotary make washers for this use. I just wonder if they are for the smaller size starter.
FAIRBANKS MORSE 10-27-80
STENS 630-012
SUNBELT B1SP70

I found the same part numbers on a lawnmower website. Fifty five cents each with about eight bucks postage. If they are the right size I plan on ordering around forty and pass them out like party favors. Many of the old saws use them including the Remy PL/SL series.

First I will check a local OPE repair down near Mo. Jim.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I had a brand new Fairbanks Morse starter assembly, tried to sell it on ebay at a decent price and had no takers. I finally put it on a Homelite Buz and gave the saw away..

 

[67L36Driver]

I ordered forty of the fibre washers. We'll see what takes place.

 

[67L36Driver]

I see the cross with dogs on evilbay for stupid expensive. That part rarely needs replaced.
Some turd head had the washers for a Stihl 08 for twelve bux plus silly postage. Same washers as any other F-M.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I see the cross with dogs on evilbay for stupid expensive. That part rarely needs replaced.
Some turd head had the washers for a Stihl 08 for twelve bux plus silly postage. Same washers as any other F-M.

Yeah, I saw that. Thought it was a little high but lots of chainsaw parts there seem expensive.

 

[captain dangers]

I have three older saws that have the Fairbank Morse recoil starter, a Strunk Shur Kut, Bolens Thrifty, and Wright GS5020. The Strunk and the Bolens both have a lot of problems with the pawls not catching. Does anyone out there have experience on how to make these things work? I have tried to carefully grind the leading edge to maintain a sharp point to grab the starter cup on the Bolens but is still misses as much as it catches. Are there replacement parts (pawls, friction discs, etc.) available for these anywhere?

Thanks,

jut some ideas to throw around. depending on how good your lathe skills are you may be able to turn down a steel stihl starter ring and jb weld it into the old starter-cup. the old starter-cup may need some taking out too? what is they to loose trying ? ;o) you may be able to tig weld some mag alloy to the worn area to give the pawl something to grab onto bud ?? i think you would need a mag-alloy welding rod or a mag-alloy aluminium mix welding rod ? hows the old danarm 55 going by the way ??

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Captain.

FYI, that post was 2008...I do have a couple of bags full of the friction discs and washers these days but I'm still often challenged when one of the FM starters comes by.

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Mark