Husky 55 problem

[Nails]

Noob here ... but I've lurked over the years. Lots of great knowledge here.

I have a Husky 55 that I bought new in '97. It's closed port -- don't actually know what that means, but I see the +++++. It's had a steady diet of nasty weedy pinon/juniper, more than 100 cords and mountains of slash. For parts, all I've ever done is replace chains, plus one sparkplug and one bar. A swell saw -- didn't need to register here before now.

Lately, it runs funky about half-way through the first tank, as if the jetting was suddenly way off. This seems to happen only if I take a 10-min or more break. Then it's really hard to start and doesn't run right for the rest of the day. It doesn't seem hot. These things don't help: screwing with the jets, filling the tank, fresh mix.

It starts and runs great the next day. I just got 90psi cold for compression. I replaced the fuel filter; and the air filter is clean. Air can circulate around the cylinder fins. The carb is clean, seems to work right, and I blew out all the circuits.

Could this be some electronic something getting hot? Do I need to pull the head? Or check compression when not running right? Or try to find a rebuild kit for the carb?

--
Nails

 

[Ronie]

90 psi is very low, I'm surprised it runs at all. If your compression tester is correct and it really is at 90psi it's time for a new ring at the least. You might want to pull the muffler and have a look at the piston. I don't know about the coil, it could be getting hot and not working right. The first thing I would check is the piston.

 

[Nails]

90 psi is very low, I'm surprised it runs at all. If your compression tester is correct and it really is at 90psi it's time for a new ring at the least. You might want to pull the muffler and have a look at the piston. I don't know about the coil, it could be getting hot and not working right. The first thing I would check is the piston.

Thx. The guy at the shop said I shouldn't expect that high. Note that this was cold, like 50-degrees cold. It's hard to pull -- I definitely use the decomp every time I start it. (I might get more than 90 if I can pull it that hard.)

I understand that because of the closed port, I don't have many options for piston. I'd be fine with a whole cylinder kit, but wanted some feedback before shopping.

 

[Ronie]

When you check the compression are you pulling until the needle stops moving or are you just giving it a couple of pulls?

 

[Nails]

When you check the compression are you pulling until the needle stops moving or are you just giving it a couple of pulls?

The first few gave 60. A few more got it up to 90. I can be more careful tomorrow.

If still low, is rings my only option?

 

[Ronie]

I don't know what your comfort level is when it comes to working on saws but this is what I would do if it has low compression. I would pull the cylinder off and take a look at the piston and cylinder. You may just need to replace the rings, replace just the piston and rings or the whole top end may need replacing. If your going to pay a shop to do it you will probably pay more than the saw is worth. If it is beyond your ability to repair it you could put it up for trade in the trading post, the closed port 55 is sought after by some. Before you pull the top end off, check out your piston and if it looks good barrow a different compression tester.

 

[Nails]

Thx. I do my own wrenching on everything else, and I've been into saws, years ago. It's a nice, new Bosch gauge; and I have others laying around to try tomorrow, given the common thread size. Was thinking about the squirt of oil trick.
What compression do you expect. I think gas can run on less than 90.
My biggest concern is parts availability.

 

[Ronie]

I would think at least 130lbs psi. If you work on your own stuff, you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[Nails]

If you work on your own stuff, you shouldn't have any problems.

If I can find parts. I'll check compression again tomorrow. Quit at 90 since that was higher than I was led to expect. Thanks again.

 

[Ronie]

You shouldn't have a problem finding parts online. If you by OEM it will be expensive.

 

[Ronie]

If there is something you can't find PM me and I'll give you a hand.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Oem pistons for the closed port (45mm windowed) are not availabe. Last i knew the only option was from lil’ red barn, maybe made by vec? Those were a hotrod saw (for a semi-pro/homeowner saw). The likely culprit is the intake bulkhead and impulse grommet in the cylinder. Super simple saws to work on. Take off muffler, see what piston looks like. Post up pics.

 

[Nails]

Thx. Got called out of town and haven't been able to mess with it. Glad to hear pistons are available at all. I notice some leave out the gaskets. Should I plan on bottom bearings, too? Saw's been good to me -- don't need to lowball it.
Assuming I can't get a higher compression.

 

[Nails]

Apologies for getting so side-tracked. I don't see much wrong with the piston or cylinder, but I can't really see very much. Here are carbon deposits on the piston.



Carbon build-up on the piston along the cylinder wall.



The ring seems worn.



> closed port (45mm windowed)

As mentioned, I don't know what "closed port" means. Maybe I'll see some 45mm window if/when I pull the head.

I'll borrow a mini camera to take a better look. Can go in the exhaust port to see the inside of the head.

Then I'll put it back together and fuss for a better compression test. I'll try again after squirting a little motor oil in there. And do both those things again after warming it up.

At this point, I'm guessing that I need a ring and gaskets. I'll probably do bearings at the same time.

Does anyone have a repair manual?

Continued thanks.

--
Neal

 

[cuinrearview]

From what little you can see in the pics it looks good. Like low use good. Check your other saws with your gauge. You could have a bad coil, tank vent, or fuel delivery issues.

 

[Ronie]

Sent you a manual

 

[old guy]

Squirting oil in it won't do a damn thing except raise comp with oil in it, what is that going to do for it? Don't bother warming it up to test either, you always get a higher number cold.
That piston looks good yet in the pic, but 90# is too low, I think it needs a ring.

 

[Nails]

Geez, guys -- that was quick. Totally appreciate the manual. Now to RTFM.

From what little you can see in the pics it looks good. Like low use good.

Definitely not low use, but I do like my saw. I cut about 7 cords/year of firewood, almost entirely of weedy pinon/juniper. Have been since I bought it. (This year I needed 8 cords.)

I was a smokejumper and thus USFS-carded feller. But not a "professional" sawyer -- only have experience with fire line and woodcutting.

Check your other saws with your gauge.

This gauge is new. I have about three others I can test against it.

But this saw is my one true love.

You could have a bad coil, tank vent, or fuel delivery issues.

I've been suspicious of the coil because it only runs bad when good and warm. Not hot -- 'cause I like my saw For this, I'll just parts-swap and be done with it.

It runs fine, then when I stop it won't start or run right. Filling the tank doesn't help. Don't think there's a venting problem.

I recently replaced the fuel filter. Mine has a grommet to seal between the fuel line and the case. I'll look for replacements. But again, filling the tank doesn't help.

I definitely don't mind spending some money on parts. This saw hasn't cost me really anything ... besides a couple bars, a gob of chains, one sparkplug, and one fuel filter.

Really appreciate your help. It might be early to pull the head.

--
Neal

 

[Nails]

Squirting oil in it won't do a damn thing except raise comp with oil in it, what is that going to do for it?

Diagnostic, not to fix it. Would confirm a bad ring.

Don't bother warming it up to test either, you always get a higher number cold.

Also diagnostic -- see what the compression is when it's not running right.

That piston looks good yet in the pic, but 90# is too low, I think it needs a ring.

I can sure live with that. Should I mess with the bearings, or wait until that's broke too? Honestly, I won't be able to saw for many more years anyway.

 

[Ronie]

If the bearings are good I wouldn't replace them.