husqvarna 254 vs 154

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booger1286

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What is the differences between the 254 and 154 husky, and how good of saws are they? What is an average price i can expect to pay for either in decent condition?
 
Both are great saws of there era. Go with the 254, greater spares availability, better features, anit vibe, more reliable ignition, better handling, better weight distribution, better brake system...........all around better than the 154. Husqvarna always improves its models and the newer models in the same family always blow the doors off of the old.
 
I agree, just grab it. Both are great saws. I've built up several of each and I personally think the 154 has a better carburetor, clutch + drum, and muffler.

Usually the 154 handlebar will be black and the earlier ones will have a metal chain brake handle.

The downside to the 154 for me is the thinner handlebar, it's less comfortable than the 254 handle.
 
If that's the saw being advertised here locally.....the seller is a real jewel. I've picked up a couple of saws from him. He runs the yard sale circuit and picks up beater/non-runners and gets'm runnin just enough to move'm. It's kinda hit and miss. I've been told that a saw has been gone through completely w/ carb rebuilt...only to get it home and find the carb in bad need of a kit and a few other surprises. I try to make sure I've got my compression gauge and a few tools to check it over real good. I recently hit a good lick with him and had a buddy (this guy knows me well by now) go look at a Poulan 4000 that "his dear old papa owned fer many years" :msp_wink: and got it at a fair price. It did need some minor work , but ended up making a sweet saw. Most of the time his stories are worth the trip to check one out!!
 
There are two differences in 154/254 that I'm aware of may be more. 154 had a smaller combustion chamber than 254 and I think tighter squish. After SN: 3XXXXXXX 254 crank was changed. Don't remember what but I have Service bulletin on it. Having said that get it doesn't matter which 154 or 254 both great saws. I've got 5-6 myself in various stages. $100 if it has good comp. buy it!
Shep
 
There are two differences in 154/254 that I'm aware of may be more. 154 had a smaller combustion chamber than 254 and I think tighter squish. After SN: 3XXXXXXX 254 crank was changed. Don't remember what but I have Service bulletin on it. Having said that get it doesn't matter which 154 or 254 both great saws. I've got 5-6 myself in various stages. $100 if it has good comp. buy it!
Shep

(+1) ***It can be bought for less......quite a bit less
 
Booger, I agree both great saw's. One of my friend's ran a 154 for year's. Another good friend of mine has a 254 he got from his dad. He run's it all the time great saw.
 
There are two differences in 154/254 that I'm aware of may be more. 154 had a smaller combustion chamber than 254 and I think tighter squish. After SN: 3XXXXXXX 254 crank was changed. Don't remember what but I have Service bulletin on it. Having said that get it doesn't matter which 154 or 254 both great saws. I've got 5-6 myself in various stages. $100 if it has good comp. buy it!
Shep

The power specs went a little up with devolopment, and were highest on the later 254xp. I don't think it matters much though?
 
I got here too late for the OP but for the record, principle differences between 154 and 254 were as follows.
(Note: Different markets may have received different combinations of specs/features at different times.)

In Australia, these were the main differences, as I remember.

Early 154s had Mahle "chrome" cylinders and alloy ported but full-skirted pistons.
Later 154s also had Mahle "chrome" cylinders but with ported lightweight "skirtless" pistons.
254s had KarlSchidt "nikasil" cylinders and ported "skirtless" piston.

Early 154s had a standard Walbro carburetor, similar to the 444 carb.
Because the porting and combustion characteristics allowed some operators to tune their saws to run unloaded, at 14,000 rpm or more - e.g. Finnish pulpwood cutters who routinely tuned their saws for maximum chain velocity for faster limbing - later 154s had a Walbro carburetor with a fixed minimum-flow hi-speed jet.
254s had a slightly different Walbro carb, also with a fixed minimum-flow hi-speed jet

254s have a slightly wider starter housing than 154 with more air intake area and the pulley further away from the flywheel. The pulley also has a longer steel sleeve which better engages the flywheel pawls.

254s have stiffer AV elements than 154.

Early 154 had push rod operated chain brake (like the 61/162).
Later 154 and all 254 had inertia brake.

Early 154 used the the same ignition module as 50 (and Partner 500/5000). When it was found that it was possible for the engine to start in the wrong direction if you pulled the cord too slowly, a unique Electrolux module incorporating an Iida Denki control circuit - which both triggered the spark at very slow pulling speed and had a diode to prevent starting in reverse - was introduced.

Of interest, the 154 was the first Husqvarna saw without a steel insert in the centre of the flywheel and the alignment key cast into the flywheel, the first pro saw to use EMABs ignition module, and the first pro saw to use a fuel tank from a farm saw, the 50. Though a more sophisticated air vent was subsequently added to all production 154 and 50 fuel tanks.

BTW "XP" is just a sticker. There is no difference between a 254SE and a 254XP.
 
Something I neglected to add is that this 154/254 story only goes up to 1988, my final year with Electrolux Motor.
Further changes came with the 257 & 262 styled updates in the years following.

I got here too late for the OP but for the record, principle differences between 154 and 254 were as follows.
(Note: Different markets may have received different combinations of specs/features at different times.)

In Australia, these were the main differences, as I remember.

Early 154s had Mahle "chrome" cylinders and alloy ported but full-skirted pistons.
Later 154s also had Mahle "chrome" cylinders but with ported lightweight "skirtless" pistons.
254s had KarlSchidt "nikasil" cylinders and ported "skirtless" piston.

Early 154s had a standard Walbro carburetor, similar to the 444 carb.
Because the porting and combustion characteristics allowed some operators to tune their saws to run unloaded, at 14,000 rpm or more - e.g. Finnish pulpwood cutters who routinely tuned their saws for maximum chain velocity for faster limbing - later 154s had a Walbro carburetor with a fixed minimum-flow hi-speed jet.
254s had a slightly different Walbro carb, also with a fixed minimum-flow hi-speed jet

254s have a slightly wider starter housing than 154 with more air intake area and the pulley further away from the flywheel. The pulley also has a longer steel sleeve which better engages the flywheel pawls.

254s have stiffer AV elements than 154.

Early 154 had push rod operated chain brake (like the 61/162).
Later 154 and all 254 had inertia brake.

Early 154 used the the same ignition module as 50 (and Partner 500/5000). When it was found that it was possible for the engine to start in the wrong direction if you pulled the cord too slowly, a unique Electrolux module incorporating an Iida Denki control circuit - which both triggered the spark at very slow pulling speed and had a diode to prevent starting in reverse - was introduced.

Of interest, the 154 was the first Husqvarna saw without a steel insert in the centre of the flywheel and the alignment key cast into the flywheel, the first pro saw to use EMABs ignition module, and the first pro saw to use a fuel tank from a farm saw, the 50. Though a more sophisticated air vent was subsequently added to all production 154 and 50 fuel tanks.

BTW "XP" is just a sticker. There is no difference between a 254SE and a 254XP.

Below is a current photo of my, now 34 year old. 154SE. It started life as a pre-production test sample (no ID plate nor holes drilled for the attachment pins). After loggers in the wilds of Victoria failed to destroy it, it came to me.
I added the inertia chainbrake, the more reliable 254 starter assembly and a Robcoflock airflter.
Bizarrely, even though I have a new fuel cap with a thicker o-ring, it still has the original cap with teflon tape around the outside. Why haven't I changed the cap? Well...it's never leaked!
 

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    My 154.jpg
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Some info to add, particularly on the early 154se, based on a sort of casual lookover of what saws I have on hand.

‘84 154se has an hda17a carb with fast idle lock out in front of the presence lever, not the fast idle mechanism that’s built into the carb and unified with the choke lever function like the later ones.
Choke lever has a pointy triangular end as opposed to rounded.
I can see ‘w1’ on the cylinder base so probably a mahle, non decomp.

’86 154se has the 'regular' choke/fast idle.

’88 254, still no air injection, still with black handle and controls, thin top handle.

Jump to ’93, has air injection but still the old style recoil cover, grey handle/controls, fatter top handle.

’95 new style recoil.
 
Bumping an old thread.

I just bought a 154 missing clutch, clutch cover, and recoil. Also appears that kill switch is broken off. Which other models have parts that will fit this saw?
 
I’m assuming you mean other than the whole 262/261/257 family?
55/51 clutch will fit, clutch cover too, functionally but not “cleanly”, as the top rear corner needs to be cut and ends up not really matching.
 
I’m assuming you mean other than the whole 262/261/257 family?
55/51 clutch will fit, clutch cover too, functionally but not “cleanly”, as the top rear corner needs to be cut and ends up not really matching.
Cool thanks. I had read somewhere that 154 had some differences from the rest of that family but that is good to hear that the externals fit anyhow.
 
I’m assuming you mean other than the whole 262/261/257 family?
55/51 clutch will fit, clutch cover too, functionally but not “cleanly”, as the top rear corner needs to be cut and ends up not really matching.
I never tried to put a 50/51 clutch cover on a 154, probably because the early 50 inertia brake with a weight in the handle would spontaneously trigger at 154 kind of RPMs. Later "knee-link" brakes should be ok.
I remember the 50 cover being a few millimetres wider too but if it fits after surgery...

Partner 400/500/5000 clutch/drum/rim will also fit.

154 starter cover is unique. Early 254 starter will work perfectly but is slightly wider and the longer steel ferrule in the pulley should engage better with the flywheel pawls.
 
I never tried to put a 50/51 clutch cover on a 154, probably because the early 50 inertia brake with a weight in the handle would spontaneously trigger at 154 kind of RPMs. Later "knee-link" brakes should be ok.
I remember the 50 cover being a few millimetres wider too but if it fits after surgery...

Partner 400/500/5000 clutch/drum/rim will also fit.

154 starter cover is unique. Early 254 starter will work perfectly but is slightly wider and the longer steel ferrule in the pulley should engage better with the flywheel pawls.
To clarify: will the later 254/257/262 not work on the 154 flywheel?
 

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