McCulloch Chain Saws

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Had my ProMac 700 out to fell and block up a big problem tree. 28" bar, full comp chain in 3' diameter elm and it pulled not half bad at all.
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Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Thanx to all for input - I will get er done yet!! Any more info would be appreciated

I thought maybe my 1-72 would have the sticker, but it is missing. Not sure it would have been the same one, but looks like it may have been from this pic on the Acres site. I hafta think they're on other saws as well.

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Thanks Mark for the reply!

Well guys I’m out of commission for a while, he’d the 101 running for a little bit then died before I could fine tune. Upon trying to start again it popped and about took my ring finger with it lol. Sooo it will be a while before I attempt to start it again lol

In the meantime while my hand heals I’m going to try and retrofit a decomp valve and adding a D-handle for starting.



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The trick is to get the saw right on TDC and then pull hard and brisk like you mean it. Also pulling backward as to opposed to strait up helps some times. They start better without using a decomp. And letting go of the starter handle early if it is an issue saves the fingers. It's all in technique. I've seen a one handed man start them without a decomp.
 
Today I've finally finished the old style muffler conversion on the pm800. Not extremely happy with my workmanship as it was a bit rushed during smoko breaks but it will do the job. Thanks for your advice Vinny and Ron. There is a fair bit of small jobs to do that add up to a fair bit of fiddling around. I made up a locking tab strap thingy and shortened up the duct bolt by welding a m8 nut onto it and welded some nuts on the duct too. All metric of course haha. 20181128_081200.jpg 20181128_081216.jpg 20181128_125019.jpg 20181128_075427.jpg 20181126_124100.jpg 20181126_124110.jpg
Will fire it up tomorrow hopefully
 
I say your muffler looks pretty good.

Regarding octane, "high octane" fuel does not have any more energy per unit (in fact, it has a bit less energy) it simply resists pre-ignition due to heat of compression. Unless your saw has high compression (probably requires 10:1 or so, most McCulloch saws were on the order of 6.5:1) it is simply not needed. Those guys that use 110 or 100 LL etc. find they have to retune their saws to run properly since it takes more fuel to make the same amount of power as lower octane fuel.

I will try to get a better photo of the 440 label tomorrow if I remember. I have a better saw in my little garage, cold out there this time of year...

Mark
 
Mark, I can not tell you how many times I have explained this to people and they will stand there and argue with you all day. It's like oil. I have these guys come in with race oil for there cruiser bikes. Why? The engine only turns around 3000RPM at road speed and redlines at around 5000RPM. Why would you need race oil for a engine that turns that low RPM? I bought a Harley Heritage from a guy several years back that the motor needed rebuilt. He had ran the really expensive oil in it and was a stickler about changing it on time and using hitest fuel. I rebuilt it and ran Shell Rotella oil and regular gas in it. I would run it way past time to change oil, run the crap out of it and I got a lot more miles out of the rebuilt engine than he got out of the new engine. Many people get stuck on having to have what they think is the best when all they are doing is wasting there money. And by the way Yes I used race oils and race fuels in the race bikes. But not the street bikes. I have found also that seams like when running hitest fuels in the winter my carbs seam to need adjusting all the time but regular fuels it don't seam to need adjusted for cold weather verses warm weather.

Brian
 
Mark, I can not tell you how many times I have explained this to people and they will stand there and argue with you all day. It's like oil. I have these guys come in with race oil for there cruiser bikes. Why? The engine only turns around 3000RPM at road speed and redlines at around 5000RPM. Why would you need race oil for a engine that turns that low RPM? I bought a Harley Heritage from a guy several years back that the motor needed rebuilt. He had ran the really expensive oil in it and was a stickler about changing it on time and using hitest fuel. I rebuilt it and ran Shell Rotella oil and regular gas in it. I would run it way past time to change oil, run the crap out of it and I got a lot more miles out of the rebuilt engine than he got out of the new engine. Many people get stuck on having to have what they think is the best when all they are doing is wasting there money. And by the way Yes I used race oils and race fuels in the race bikes. But not the street bikes. I have found also that seams like when running hitest fuels in the winter my carbs seam to need adjusting all the time but regular fuels it don't seam to need adjusted for cold weather verses warm weather.

Brian

Well said Brian some people just aren't really gunna get it anyway though eh unless someone is actually interested and curious about it then they won't really absorb the knowledge. My little Toyota 20v 4age (not the supercharged engine) has an 11 to 1 compression ratio and any gas lower than 98ron makes it knock pretty bad or I have to wind back the timing a tad but people always ask why you buying that expensive fuel for it's only a 1600 Haha. Then watch people paying big bucks for 98ron in there low compression nana cars with cut springs shiny wheels and a boom box Haha people eh. The race oil thing is also funny those oils are designed to be hammered around a track at extreme temperatures and on the street you'd never get it that high so the oil is the wrong viscosity. So makes sense about that bike Brian
 
Well cranked up the new/old muffled 800 today and wow just wow it is not any more louder as it had a missing gasket before but far out it sounds better. It's very crisp and clean sounding not choked up and you can really here its tune now very clear four stroke sound. Still not as loud as the 700 or 7-10 or even the 10-10 but That pop pop tat tat tat tat pop pop idle is there now very happy well worth it and a good satisfying feeling. I really feel fire risk was a big reason for the big mufflers as well as noise and to be honest they did a good job in that respect. 20181129_060826.jpg
Also while I remember I had some stripped threads in the starter housing and just for anyone up the same creek M5 is a perfect no drilling required step up. Just grind the head diameter down on counter sunk heads easy peasy:)20181129_092918.jpg
 
The trick is to get the saw right on TDC and then pull hard and brisk like you mean it. Also pulling backward as to opposed to strait up helps some times. They start better without using a decomp. And letting go of the starter handle early if it is an issue saves the fingers. It's all in technique. I've seen a one handed man start them without a decomp.

Thanks! Definitely going to use a new method next time.


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Well said Brian some people just aren't really gunna get it anyway though eh unless someone is actually interested and curious about it then they won't really absorb the knowledge. My little Toyota 20v 4age (not the supercharged engine) has an 11 to 1 compression ratio and any gas lower than 98ron makes it knock pretty bad or I have to wind back the timing a tad but people always ask why you buying that expensive fuel for it's only a 1600 Haha. Then watch people paying big bucks for 98ron in there low compression nana cars with cut springs shiny wheels and a boom box Haha people eh. The race oil thing is also funny those oils are designed to be hammered around a track at extreme temperatures and on the street you'd never get it that high so the oil is the wrong viscosity. So makes sense about that bike Brian

I feel like in a two stroke it would be hard to hear pinging like a conventional car. Would have to have saw under a heavy load or something to tell I would imagine.


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I feel like in a two stroke it would be hard to hear pinging like a conventional car. Would have to have saw under a heavy load or something to tell I would imagine.


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Yea dead right and probably an indescribable sound too something that only an experienced person could hear
 
91 octane works fine in both of my 101B's. Even with a 50" bar and heavy load. But i agree that it would likely take an experienced ear to hear it. The static compression ratio is low in these engines. More fuel through port timing changes could no doubt effect dynamic compression as could,I suspect, excess oil or any non compressible slow to burn type liquid that remains in the combustion chamber on the compression stroke. Improper ignition timing can be killer in starting these engines as well.
 
Ok guys. I have been in contact with mark. And I said I would do this a couple days ago but I've been a little slow on the draw. I have a gentleman lined up, who is looking to move this entire collection. I'm buying one from him for sure that is not in these pics. But if anyone in here is serious, I can put you in touch. There is more than what you see here, but these are the saws that he calls "restoreable". Plus some spare parts. The number i got quoted is 12k. For the 165 saws you see in these pics plus the parts. That's just the Mac's. If anyone wants his info, I can provide that and the introduction. Saws are located on the west coast.
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So our 91 is your 87 your 91 us our 95. Most people run 91ron/87aki in saws and power equipment over here
Ok guys. I have been in contact with mark. And I said I would do this a couple days ago but I've been a little slow on the draw. I have a gentleman lined up, who is looking to move this entire collection. I'm buying one from him for sure that is not in these pics. But if anyone in here is serious, I can put you in touch. There is more than what you see here, but these are the saws that he calls "restoreable". Plus some spare parts. The number i got quoted is 12k. For the 165 saws you see in these pics plus the parts. That's just the Mac's. If anyone wants his info, I can provide that and the introduction. Saws are located on the west coast.
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Holly dear mother of God. Nearly made a mess in my pants just looking at all that. Bet theres a good 7-10 cylinder among those old gems
 
Today I've finally finished the old style muffler conversion on the pm800. Not extremely happy with my workmanship as it was a bit rushed during smoko breaks but it will do the job. Thanks for your advice Vinny and Ron. There is a fair bit of small jobs to do that add up to a fair bit of fiddling around. I made up a locking tab strap thingy and shortened up the duct bolt by welding a m8 nut onto it and welded some nuts on the duct too. All metric of course haha. View attachment 686830 View attachment 686831 View attachment 686833 View attachment 686834 View attachment 686835 View attachment 686836
Will fire it up tomorrow hopefully

Youre welcome. It looks good. Be proud
 
ok, which one of you dirty old farts snagged the sp70 off the trading post??? lol, see what i get for not checking regularly
 
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