Need help changing bar and chain size. Current is 20 inch, want to go to 16 inch. .325 .058 72DL 20 inch bar and chain currently.

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DigIntoEverything

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Hi I am very new and young (23 years old) and just started out cutting trees and using a chainsaw a week ago. I am purchasing a cheap chinese CHAINSAW off amazon to get started. I want to change the bar and chain due to 20 inches being hard to control and maneuver., also I heard that having a shorter bar and chain gives the saw more power. I have previously purchased a similar saw that I will be returning as I found a better deal. What I need to know is which bar and chain to buy that will fit the saw but be 16 inches or 18 if I cannot have 16 due to some limitation. The saw in question which I will link again HERE has a bar and chain with .325 .058 72DL. What would I need to buy to have a 16 inch bar and chain fit? One las thing, how would one find out the tail mount of a guide bar? In order to properly ensure that I will have a correct fitmit I need to know the saws tail mount so that the tensioner and oiler ports line up on the bar and saw. Please let me know if you need any more information or can give me any haha.
 
What kind of chain saw motor runs at 8500 rpm? :crazy:
You aren't going to get much out of that saw at all....a 62cc saw should handle a 20" bar with no problem. A 16" bar isn't going to help you.....Save your money and buy a decent name-brand saw....and you might want to find somebody to teach you how to use it properly, maybe go work for a local arborist company. Get some chaps too. Never use a saw without PPE.
 
8500 - Those must be metric RPMs.

1st things 1st:
- Do a muffler mod.
- Put an NGK spark plug in it. Most likely BPMR7, but double check that.
- Tune the carb correctly.

See what that does for performance then report back.
 
What saw would you recommend if I were to consider buying a name brand? The saw I linked is one of many chinese copies. I am currently running a saw of the same design just a lower spec engine and it runs amazingly well. No issues starting it, plenty of power just a bad bar and chain. I refuse to pay over $200 for a chainsaw that is lower powered just because its name brand. As far as I ma concerned if the saw doesnt work I will return it. I have a poulan pro wild thing 18 inch but the handle broke and will not run due to a carb issue. I refuse to buy anything that doesnt have a metal body and handle. I do realize that plastic makes it lighter but I prefer durability over weight when it comes to something so important. As far as my original question neither of you have shed any light on it at all. Rather you said I should purchase a different saw. The problem is I want to run a shorter bar, whatever my reasons may be thats the main issue. Now in my research I have found a 18 inch .325 .058 72 DL bar and chain from oregon. That is most likely the path I will go. Do you have any good sharpeners that you would recommend under $50? One last thing, I am aware that most ppl do muffler mods and change the spark plug and if needed tune the carb. I am not experienced with small engines or rather any engines for that matter to know enough to tune it properly, however I will be researching it as the poulan pro wild thing needs a carb adjustment as it will not run and boggs out when at power.
 
Best bet is to get yourself one of those fantastic high quality 3/16" Chinese round files. Probably save yourself $1.00 over those overpriced name brand Swiss or German files.
 
What saw would you recommend if I were to consider buying a name brand? The saw I linked is one of many chinese copies. I am currently running a saw of the same design just a lower spec engine and it runs amazingly well. No issues starting it, plenty of power just a bad bar and chain. I refuse to pay over $200 for a chainsaw that is lower powered just because its name brand. As far as I ma concerned if the saw doesnt work I will return it. I have a poulan pro wild thing 18 inch but the handle broke and will not run due to a carb issue. I refuse to buy anything that doesnt have a metal body and handle. I do realize that plastic makes it lighter but I prefer durability over weight when it comes to something so important. As far as my original question neither of you have shed any light on it at all. Rather you said I should purchase a different saw. The problem is I want to run a shorter bar, whatever my reasons may be thats the main issue. Now in my research I have found a 18 inch .325 .058 72 DL bar and chain from oregon. That is most likely the path I will go. Do you have any good sharpeners that you would recommend under $50? One last thing, I am aware that most ppl do muffler mods and change the spark plug and if needed tune the carb. I am not experienced with small engines or rather any engines for that matter to know enough to tune it properly, however I will be researching it as the poulan pro wild thing needs a carb adjustment as it will not run and boggs out when at power.
You are going to take a beating from the guys on this site when you lead with a question about a Chinese saw you bought on Amazon... Sad, but true. Apparently most of the people didn't read your question past that part. If you are looking for a shorter bar, I would recommend you take that one in to a store that sells chainsaws and ask someone for help there. These guys are not going to give you anything but grief about what you purchased. I can't tell what that saw is comparable to, but it looks similar to a poulan pro. Good luck with it man.
 
What saw would you recommend if I were to consider buying a name brand? . . . . refuse to pay over $200 for a chainsaw that is lower powered just because its name brand. . . . I refuse to buy anything that doesnt have a metal body and handle.
Welcome to A.S.

One advantage of 'name brand' saws is the availability of parts. I have seen many $140 Home Depot saws thrown away because they were junk, or parts were not available, or parts were more than the saw was worth. And that saw is NOT going to have a metal body OR handle. They may also be lying about its power. Replacing the bar and chain, with even modest ones, will cost you at least another $30. Since it is a 'no brand' saw, the guide bar specs will not likely be listed in the guides. AFTER you buy it, you can compare the profile against some other saws.
'SALEM MASTER 6220H 62CC 2-Cycle Gas Powered Chainsaw, 20-Inch Chainsaw, Handheld Cordless Petrol Gasoline Chain Saw for Farm, Garden and Ranch $142.99'

You are going to take a beating from the guys on this site when you lead with a question about a Chinese saw you bought on Amazon... Sad, but true. Apparently most of the people didn't read your question past that part.

I read his whole post, and even pulled up the saw on Amazon. He is asking for advice from the guys on this site, and based on experience, 'If you buy cheap, that's what you get.'

You should be able to find a better saw in that $200 price range, from a brand you have heard of, from a local home center, or 'refurbished' from a place like VMinnovations. Or look at something used. You can buy a NEW STIHL MS170, with a factory warranty for $179.95. It's not all about power.

I am aware that most ppl do muffler mods and change the spark plug and if needed tune the carb. I am not experienced with small engines or rather any engines for that matter
Most people don't. A small percentage of them do, and like to talk about it alot. If you don't have the experience, and are starting out with a cheaply made product, you will very likely trash it, and find that parts are not available.

Philbert
 
Agree with Philbert , you can find a quality Husky , Stihl or Dolkita for around $200 . That will provide much better performance & reliability. Otherwise as advised bring your current 20 " bar in to a Dealer and match up a 16" bar replacement , Good luck Bro !
 
. . .. I am currently running a saw of the same design just a lower spec engine and it runs amazingly well. No issues starting it, plenty of power just a bad bar and chain.
So why do you want to buy a cheap new saw and put a new bar and chain on it when you say the only problem with your current saw is that it has "a bad bar and chain?"
 
Welcome to A.S.

One advantage of 'name brand' saws is the availability of parts. I have seen many $140 Home Depot saws thrown away because they were junk, or parts were not available, or parts were more than the saw was worth. And that saw is NOT going to have a metal body OR handle. They may also be lying about its power. Replacing the bar and chain, with even modest ones, will cost you at least another $30. Since it is a 'no brand' saw, the guide bar specs will not likely be listed in the guides. AFTER you buy it, you can compare the profile against some other saws.
'SALEM MASTER 6220H 62CC 2-Cycle Gas Powered Chainsaw, 20-Inch Chainsaw, Handheld Cordless Petrol Gasoline Chain Saw for Farm, Garden and Ranch $142.99'



I read his whole post, and even pulled up the saw on Amazon. He is asking for advice from the guys on this site, and based on experience, 'If you buy cheap, that's what you get.'

You should be able to find a better saw in that $200 price range, from a brand you have heard of, from a local home center, or 'refurbished' from a place like VMinnovations. Or look at something used. You can buy a NEW STIHL MS170, with a factory warranty for $179.95. It's not all about power.


Most people don't. A small percentage of them do, and like to talk about it alot. If you don't have the experience, and are starting out with a cheaply made product, you will very likely trash it, and find that parts are not available.

Philbert
You are very much incorrect on many points. For starters I have already stated that I have a saw that is nearly identical in build as the one posted and it DOES have a metal handle and body. Not to mention it starts up like a champ! Other saws ive used and witnessed are mostly plastic with plastic handles and are very difficult to start. In fact one of the many complaints of the name brands is that they are hard to start. A warranty is next to useless for me as I expect the saw to last longer than a year before it needs fixing, something many name brands struggle to do. As far as power goes I have no scientific way to measure it but the current saw I have is stated at 45cc and it has plenty of power when it cuts. However being new and not experienced I have been struggling sharpening the chain and getting the rakers at the correct height. The reason I am not just getting a new bar for this saw is I am hoping that the new saw is higher powered and will simply get it for that. I prefer a shorter bar for many reasons, easier to wield, more power, lighter weight and better balance. As for the chain Im hoping the oregon will hold its edge longer and hold up to more sharpening than the chinese one. I figured there would be snobs on here but honestly expecting someone to shill out $300+ on chainsaw equipment to do some yard work or small DIY projects is absurd! Back to it not being all about power. More power paired with a shorter and sharp chain I hear makes for a extremely pleasant experience. A lot like a hot knife through butter. Being disabled having not to wrestle with cutting is a priority for me. The extra weight from the metal parts is a bit of a bummer but having had bad experiences with plastic Ill just give my fore arm a better workout. If there is anything wrong with the saw within 2 weeks of using it or longer Ill just send it back. At least I will have either broken or gained experience on a cheap no name brand saw while hopefully accomplishing my goals before returning it. To be quite honest there is no name brand saw under $250 that I would even consider buying. They are either made of plastic or under powered. If I am to make such an expensive purchase the tool must be of very high quality and capability.
 
You are going to take a beating from the guys on this site when you lead with a question about a Chinese saw you bought on Amazon... Sad, but true. Apparently most of the people didn't read your question past that part. If you are looking for a shorter bar, I would recommend you take that one in to a store that sells chainsaws and ask someone for help there. These guys are not going to give you anything but grief about what you purchased. I can't tell what that saw is comparable to, but it looks similar to a poulan pro. Good luck with it man.
Thanks I really appreciate you saying that. Arrogance is not pretty. So far I have had a quite pleasant experience with my first cheap chinese chainsaw and am hopeful for the second. If not Ill just return that too and use the money I saved trying out cheaper saws to maybe buy a better one.
 
So why do you want to buy a cheap new saw and put a new bar and chain on it when you say the only problem with your current saw is that it has "a bad bar and chain?"
One thing I am returning it, second a smaller bar will be easier for me to wield and give me more power and control. If I could buy a cheap new saw with no bar and chain for even cheaper I would haha
 
Just a quick question what CC plus bar do you guys/girls usually use? Is 16/18 a good length for most tasks? is having the option to swap out to a much larger bar a good idea? What do you think about bluemax? Any good?
 
Just a quick question what CC plus bar do you guys/girls usually use? Is 16/18 a good length for most tasks? is having the option to swap out to a much larger bar a good idea? What do you think about bluemax? Any good?
16" bar is good all around bar for smaller displacement saws (under 50 cc). Good especially for limbing and bucking firewood or felling. & limbing smaller trees . Bluemax are a interesting light weight saw , similar to the Redmax line . The 45 cc class Bluemax is actually quite popular as a back up saw . May be a good option for you to explore at a very good price point for a newcomer !
 
Thank you for displaying your ignorance, arrogance, and attitude after asking for input from others.
Hi I am very new and young (23 years old) and just started out cutting trees and using a chainsaw a week ago. . . . . Please let me know if you need any more information or can give me any haha.

You are very much incorrect on many points. For starters I have already stated that I have a saw that is nearly identical in build as the one posted and it DOES have a metal handle and body.
Your front handle may be of a metal alloy, but your rear handle is not. I would be very much surprised if your saw is not of a 'clamshell' design, where there is an assembled engine, about the size of a can of beans, encased in a plastic body, versus a saw where the magnesium body is an integral part of the motor. Clamshells are the most common design of saws under $400, including some 'name brand' ones that perform quite well. If it is 'metal', it does not mean that it is 'good' metal, or a well made saw.
Screen shot 2020-04-04 at 5.04.41 PM.pngScreen shot 2020-04-04 at 5.56.25 PM.png

Other saws ive used and witnessed are mostly plastic with plastic handles and are very difficult to start. In fact one of the many complaints of the name brands is that they are hard to start. A warranty is next to useless for me as I expect the saw to last longer than a year before it needs fixing, something many name brands struggle to do.

Any saw is hard to start if you don't know what you are doing; the 'plastic' has nothing to do with it, but cheap saws are often bought by guys who do not understand how to use or maintain them, which makes them harder to start. It must be true that the 'name brands' that you have such hostility towards (?) must be worse; that why the pros choose them, over the less expensive clones on Amazon and eBay, because they love saws that are hard to start when they are on the clock, and they love paying more than they have to!!!

And you can expect your saw to last as long as you want, but where did you pull out the 'fact' that 'many name brands struggle' to last a year ? From the same factual reservoir that ignores the 2 to 5 year consumer warranties offered by companies like Husqvarna, STIHL and ECHO? From the 30 and 40 year old name brand saws that some members on this forum still run? Or from your extensive experience with the other cheap, no-brand saw that you bought, and already are returning, and which you plan on fixing yourself without that 'next to useless' warranty (because Amazon isn't going to fix it or find parts for you, or even buy you any of special tools). The important things are that it is cheap, that it looks like a 'real' chainsaw, and that it has cool graphics; right? Or that it has '5 star' ratings from people who have owned it for less than a month?

. . . being new and not experienced I have been struggling sharpening the chain and getting the rakers at the correct height. The reason I am not just getting a new bar for this saw is I am hoping that the new saw is higher powered and will simply get it for that. . . . Im hoping the oregon will hold its edge longer and hold up to more sharpening than the chinese one. . . . More power paired with a shorter and sharp chain I hear makes for a extremely pleasant experience. A lot like a hot knife through butter.
A lot of 'hoping' and 'figuring' in there! Yet when you ask for feedback from experienced users you stick your fingers in your ears. More power will never compensate for a dull chain; it will just overheat things faster. Oregon, STIHL, Carlton, and other (excuse me) 'name brand' chains also need to be sharpened. If that is your issue, figure that out first. A higher powered, heavier saw will be harder to start and handle if you have a related disability, compared to a smaller, agile saw with a sharp chain. 62cc is a large saw, especially for 'some yard work or small DIY projects '.

I figured there would be snobs on here but honestly expecting someone to shill out $300+ on chainsaw equipment to do some yard work or small DIY projects is absurd! . . . To be quite honest there is no name brand saw under $250 that I would even consider buying. They are either made of plastic or under powered. If I am to make such an expensive purchase the tool must be of very high quality and capability.
WOW! Who is the 'snob'? Who is the cheap snob? Who demands 'durability' and 'very high quality and capability', but expects to pay Harbor Freight prices? Good thing that no one has chimed in yet about the $100+ of personal protective equipment someone as inexperienced as you should have. But you would probably blow that off too.

Outta here.

Philbert
 
Thank you for displaying your ignorance, arrogance, and attitude after asking for input from others.



Your front handle may be of a metal alloy, but your rear handle is not. I would be very much surprised if your saw is not of a 'clamshell' design, where there is an assembled engine, about the size of a can of beans, encased in a plastic body, versus a saw where the magnesium body is an integral part of the motor. Clamshells are the most common design of saws under $400, including some 'name brand' ones that perform quite well. If it is 'metal', it does not mean that it is 'good' metal, or a well made saw.
View attachment 814362View attachment 814379



Any saw is hard to start if you don't know what you are doing; the 'plastic' has nothing to do with it, but cheap saws are often bought by guys who do not understand how to use or maintain them, which makes them harder to start. It must be true that the 'name brands' that you have such hostility towards (?) must be worse; that why the pros choose them, over the less expensive clones on Amazon and eBay, because they love saws that are hard to start when they are on the clock, and they love paying more than they have to!!!

And you can expect your saw to last as long as you want, but where did you pull out the 'fact' that 'many name brands struggle' to last a year ? From the same factual reservoir that ignores the 2 to 5 year consumer warranties offered by companies like Husqvarna, STIHL and ECHO? From the 30 and 40 year old name brand saws that some members on this forum still run? Or from your extensive experience with the other cheap, no-brand saw that you bought, and already are returning, and which you plan on fixing yourself without that 'next to useless' warranty (because Amazon isn't going to fix it or find parts for you, or even buy you any of special tools). The important things are that it is cheap, that it looks like a chainsaw, and that it has cool graphics; right? Or that it has '5 star' ratings from people who have owned it for less than a month?


A lot of 'hoping' and 'figuring' in there! Yet when you ask for feedback from experienced users you stick your fingers in your ears. More power will never compensate for a dull chain; it will just overheat things faster. Oregon, STIHL, Carlton, and other (excuse me) 'name brand' chains also need to be sharpened. If that is your issue, figure that out first. A higher powered, heavier saw will be harder to start and handle if you have a related disability, compared to a smaller, agile saw with a sharp chain. 62cc is a large saw, especially for 'some yard work or small DIY projects '.


WOW! Who is the 'snob'? Who is the cheap snob? Who demands 'durability' and 'very high quality and capability', but expects to pay Harbor Freight prices? Good thing that no one has chimed in yet about the $100+ of personal protective equipment someone as inexperienced as you should have. But you would probably blow that off too.

Outta here.

Philbert
Listen here, I am very budget minded and frugal. That tends to happen when you are dirt poor and have friends who give you money so that you can buy tools to make a garden (hugelkulture log raised bed) for your disabled mother whose biggest joy in life is gardening. Sorry that I do not have the money to pay for a $600 overpriced saw. Sure it may last a life time but Ive heard reports of ppl buying them brand new and having them in the shop a week later! Most name brands are manufactured in china or have parts that come from there. Also I love harbour freight and use their tools first before anything else and have had great experience with them. I do not expect a $150 tool to be equally as good as a $600 tool. However the fact remains that we are NOT discussing the tool itself yet its accessories or addons. As far as the tool goes I am satisfied with the purchase and soon to be purchase. The hostility is from you. I have my reasons for saying and doing what I have and didnt want to get into them as all I needed was some help with my query. Something you have neglected to do at all and instead attacked me for my preferences. Maybe I just like trying new things that are not the popular option. Maybe I cannot afford the PRO gear. Maybe I am not a PRO. Maybe I just wanted some advice that wasnt the obvious choice of buy expensive ****! One last thing too as Im all fired up! I DO NOT USE PROTECTIVE GEAR! SHOCKER! I am not a safety sally, I pride myself in having control and restraint of the tool I am using. A self taught habit/skill that I have needed to learn in the absence of having money to purchase the proper safety gear for every situation. I am a man of many hobbies and skills. None of which I master as most of the time they are a means to and end due to not having the money to either have someone else do it or to replace/fix something. So I improvise, I learn the skills that it takes to do it myself. I am no pro and I am no expert but I can do my research and learn a long the way. I had hoped that by signing up on this site to post for help that I couldnt find by searching google that I would get my answer without hostility. So goodbye and good riddance! Next time why dont you try and be helpful instead of inserting your opinion. If you dont have the answer I need then keep moving.
 
Listen here, I am very budget minded and frugal. That tends to happen when you are dirt poor and have friends who give you money so that you can buy tools to make a garden (hugelkulture log raised bed) for your disabled mother whose biggest joy in life is gardening. Sorry that I do not have the money to pay for a $600 overpriced saw. Sure it may last a life time but Ive heard reports of ppl buying them brand new and having them in the shop a week later!
Things happen, mostly because the people buying those saws don't know how to maintain them. The chances of having a new Echo or Stihl malfunction in a few days is minimal, the chances of a cheap Chinese POS breaking is pretty good. By the time you realize this you'll have a ton of money into a cheap saw that might not last a year, more than enough money to buy a good one that will last for years....

Most name brands are manufactured in china or have parts that come from there.
Really?
I DO NOT USE PROTECTIVE GEAR! SHOCKER! I am not a safety sally, I pride myself in having control and restraint of the tool I am using.
:angry::dumb2::angry: :dumb2::wtf:..... Famous last words.....and pretty arrogant too. Don't assume you can control a 62cc saw if it decides to do something unexpected. You have zero experience with saws and are going at this all wrong. You are going to get hurt if you approach learning about saws with that attitude.....
A self taught habit/skill that I have needed to learn in the absence of having money to purchase the proper safety gear for every situation.
Yet you now have 2 saws and are buying a third...and are looking to dump even more money into a cheap saw....A pair of chaps can be had for under $100....
Whats more expensive - a pair of chaps or a week in the hospital after you cut your leg or arm open using a chainsaw you know nothing about and probably can't control properly anyhow? Here's a hint for you - a shorter bar on a big saw does not in any way mean you have better control over the saw.....
Being disabled having not to wrestle with cutting is a priority for me.
If this is true, you don't want a big saw until you figure out how to use any saw....Do yourself a favor - listen to what the people here with years of experience have to say. You asked for advice and got it.

/and thats that...I suspect we are being trolled.......................over and out.......
 
I am just a homeowner. I cut things on my 9 acres. I do trail work and cut things on trails. I had a little Sears/Poulan all metal saw with no chain brake. Used it a fair bit. Got mad when it refused to start. Didn't like no chain brake. I got Stihl MS210 11 years ago as a replacement. Never had an issue with it starting. Never had the carb off. Starts when I need it. It gets used every so often which might be a dozen times a year. I got a Stihl MS310 from the pawn shop. I needed a few parts that were missing. The guy at the saw shop pulled off some used parts at a bargain price. When I decided I wanted to try a bigger bar on the 310 he sold me a bar and chain. It starts when I need it. I have an Echo leaf blower that always starts. A Stihl hedge trimmer that sometimes starts. A Stihl 4mix 110 that always starts. A 29 year old Stihl FS 66 weed wacker that starts. Nothing in my collection is pure chinese. Nothing in my collection has ever needed a major repair. Now the Stihl 210 is not a brute with power but it does what it is supposed to do. The MS 310 has more power but weighs more. Again I am just a homeowner that uses the tools I have to get jobs done. If I do on occasion need parts or advice I can go to 5 stores within 25 minutes or less and usually get parts that day. You cannot do that with a no name chinese saw. At least I have not seen any of the consumer/pro shops carry chinese saws. I have nothing bad to say about Stihl, Echo, Makita, Husqvarna, or any of the other brands that have been on the market more than 30 years. Buying tools from Harbor Freight or Northern Hydraulic (if not name brand tools) means you have one place to go to for parts, if they even stock parts. No place to go to to talk shop if you buy from those two places or if you buy from Amazon or Alibaba. Even if you find these chinese saws in a retail store that does not mean the parts availability will be good.

I am not made of money. That MS 210 and a low cost pressure washer are the only new engine tools I own out of 13 tools with spark plugs. Heck my car is 19 years old and has 570,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. Head never been off the car. I can squeeze a dollar if I want to. My Stihl, Echo, Honda and Husqvarna tools have all been a good value to me. I got my Dad's rototiller that has to be at least 65-years old. It even starts after 5 years of not starting.

There are crusty people here, but a large number of nice people. When you start the conversation with "Your favorite or second favorite brand is overpriced and prone to failure" you start off on the wrong foot. The pros buy the tools they can make money with. They need to get parts quickly if they need to repair. If you use a tool every day 6 or 7 days a week, that tool may need a repair every once in a while. The place for an answer about a smaller bar for your saw is the place you purchased it from. That is what people who buy name brand equipment can do.

I do have saw chaps. I do have a hard hat with a face screen and hearing protection. I like my chain brakes to work. I am careful but things can happen even if you are careful, hence the safety gear. My chain cutters are sharp with hand filing. Sharp cutters on your chain let a saw work up to its potential. Dull is dangerous. ;-)
 
WOW, just WOW, accuses of Arrogance, but is more arrogant than what he complains of, is insulting, then expects Help, definitely a member of the "ME" Generation.

9 Husqvarna Saws, counting the Wife's in my Garage, None have ever needed any Warranty work, never mind a Major repair, and my 266XP "Old Reliable" is getting close to 30 years old, and still starts second or third pull after a long nap, Oh, and not a "Made in China" tag on ANY of them

NO PPE, He is too SMART for that, well that is how we end up with nonsensical regulations, people getting hurt using tools they have no business running.

Gads, I TRULY HOPE, that he is just a Troll, and not the next statistic.


Doug :cheers:
 
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