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New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by stumpy75, Sep 11, 2011.

  1. Como

    Como ArboristSite Operative

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    I do not have any wavy grained elm but if you send me a piece I will split it and post.

    [video=youtube;0Tlg58hMG1Q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Tlg58hMG1Q[/video]

    Loads of videos on you tube.
     
  2. sunfish

    sunfish Fish Head

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    Would be better than splitting wood on the ground! But Expensive! :D
     
  3. R6chris

    R6chris New Member

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    I just returned mine yesterday to the service center and Speeco decided not to repair it. Speeco authorized TSC to give me a complete refund. Now what to buy?
     
  4. sunfish

    sunfish Fish Head

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    Super Split J model... Call Paul.
     
  5. csmith

    csmith ArboristSite Lurker

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    What repairs were needed?
     
  6. Dozer Man

    Dozer Man ArboristSite Operative

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    I agree...


    :msp_thumbup: :msp_thumbsup: :msp_thumbup:
     
  7. mr.finn

    mr.finn ArboristSite Guru

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    :rock:
     
  8. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy New Member

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    Speedpro Splitter Mod suggestions Needed, please help just picked one up cheap.

    Just picked up a Speedpro Splitter cheap. . I want to modify it and I'm looking for some ideas. Any ideas on a supplier for a new bronze wear plate ? I don't think that Speedco will supply them anymore, but i might be wrong. I'm not impressed with the sloppiness on the ram/beam mating surface side to side. The tolerances need to be tighter if the rack and pinion are going to mate correctly. I do have some ideas since I am a tool repair mechanic by trade. I've already installed the Dr. Splitter clutch assy. (1.5 '' vs 3.5'' clutch that originally came with it) this slows down the flywheels closer to 300 rpm vs 450 rpm that destroys the rack. I plan to use the larger clutch if I want to convert it to electric later by using a 1750 rpm 1 hp electric motor to keep the flywheels to 300 rpm + or -. This seems to be the secret that super split keeps to. Lower rpm to decrease torque damage to the rack assy. This unit has the new improved rack assy. plus I do have 2 brand new retro fit kits if the rack fails. I've looked at the Dr. website and was impressed with the tolerance that is withheld side to side on the beam due to the design. I don't have any idea how super split achieves this but would love to see some pictures if someone could supply them.
    I do know that a few of our members love the Speedpro's because of the simplicity and the price that they paid for them. I can machine just about anything so I'm looking for ideas on how you keep these Speedpros going. Any help and Pics would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Bluegrassboy




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  9. csmith

    csmith ArboristSite Lurker

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    speedpro update

    I have processed 5 cords since installing smaller pulley, with no problems. I have split some hickory that was 24" diameter. Some pieces took 6 hits to cut through. I really believe the problem with the speedpro was the speed of the flywheels. It was too fast for the design.The only modification on my speedpro is the pulley.NO disengagement, clutch slips.
     
  10. daleeper

    daleeper ArboristSite Member

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    I have put about a cord of walnut through mine and a few chunks of some nasty oak, and as long as the small clutch has some lubricant, it will slip when hitting a hard spot, always a crotch so far. If the clutch does not slip, I have had a few times when the ram rack has popped up hard. I like this thing, but am always afraid that a tooth will break. When using a hydraulic, I have never worried about breaking anything other than a piece of wood, which is the intent.

    I don't like the oblong holes they used to mount the engagement yoke. I think that linkage needs tightened up a bit, any suggestions? The other thing, can you lubricate the clutch too much so that it will not engage at all?
     
  11. car guy

    car guy New Member

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    I am glad that the DR clutch work out
     
  12. csmith

    csmith ArboristSite Lurker

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    I replaced the two front 30mm bearings with 35mm bearings. This made the fit between the beam and ram head much better.Bearing # 6300-zz
     
  13. TFPace

    TFPace ArboristSite Operative

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    Clutch failure

    I thought I would share what happened to me today.

    I think I am probably one of the last guys to have kept their Speedpro.:dizzy: This is according to the lady the fields warranty calls. So says my service guy. His words were "she really wishes you'd turn it back in"

    He told her I liked mine and it's under warranty so let's fix it.

    Anyway I was splitting some cherry yesterday and hit some hard pieces. No problem other than the clutch didn't slip. I go get some PB Blaster and hosed down the clutch. Anyway towards the end of my session I noticed that the engine sounded a little different. I thought nothing of it and finished up and called it a day.

    This AM I had some more to split and go to fire the Kohler "Courage" up and it started to back fire through the carb. The plug was soaking wet with gas.
    Long story short the key that holds the flywheel in time sheared and knocked itself out of time. The tech at the service center quickly diagnosed it . I took a compression reading and it would barely makes 20 p.s.i.

    So, I wished I gone ahead and ordered the DR clutch.

    I have a new engine and clutch coming for my SpeedPro next week.

    My question is that I think the centrifical clutch should not slip if the engine is holding the correct RPM. The belts should be the fail point. Am I wrong?

    The tech said that replacing the key would get the engine up and running no problem.

    Update complete.
     
  14. daleeper

    daleeper ArboristSite Member

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    There are a few of us that have saved them from the scrap pile, and expect no warranty from Speeco, and still enjoy tinkering with them. I do need to improve the engagement linkage, as it is sloppy, and will disengage on a hard piece of oak with limbs or crotch in it.

    I'm no expert on centrifugal clutches, but I believe that it is designed to slip, even at the correct engine rpm to protect the engine and the driven machine. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. In the case of this splitter, the slipping of the clutch allows the engine to continue to run, but allow the flywheels of the splitter to stop turning, thus protecting the engine.
     
  15. Dozer Man

    Dozer Man ArboristSite Operative

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    Still Under Warranty! Wow!

    That is cool that SpeeCo is still honoring your warranty. That does speak wonders about the company. Sounds like you are still putting it through its paces too!!

    As for the belts, I do not believe they should slip much if any. Speaking for my SuperSplit, its flywheels have no grooves what so ever. The twin belts run on the flat part of the flywheel (which were surprisingly easy to align too). On a stall, if they slip at all I can't see it. The clutch does the slipping (I lube it periodically also). With the deep grooves on the SpeedPro flywheel, and especially if you slowed them down via DR clutch or simply by throttle control, I highly doubt they slip very much if any.

    I will say this about the SS j model, I was surprised at how slow the flywheels actually turn. The drive pulley is only 1.5" (outside groove). I do run the engine at a higher RPM than I did with the speedpro, but I only run wide open periodically for bigger/harder stuff. I still use very little gas. The slower flywheel speed lets the motor actually "power through" instead of just hammering it. Hit it, if it stalls, disengage and hit it again. It stalls about as often as the speedpro did running at minimal engine rpm. Which as you know is not that often. FYI, I very highly recommend getting the smaller drive clutch pulley (via DR of SS) for your SpeedPro.

    Has Speeco mentioned getting back into the kinetic business?? Just curious because they mentioned that to me before.

    I absolutely love and recommend the SS J-model. It is a great machine. I also understand you persevering through with the SpeedPro!!!

    I wish you all good luck with them.
     
  16. ilikeurtractor

    ilikeurtractor ArboristSite Lurker

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    So I picked up one of these infamous splitters and now am suffering from the dreaded kickback that surely will not be good for me or the machine long term. The way I see it, even though it does work ok on "nice" wood, it is essentially useless in this condition, but it pains me to just give up on it and toss the baby out with the bathwater. I was thinking about putting some sort of latching mechanism to lock the what I'm going to call the "rack press" for my lack of proper terminology, which is the pivoting cast lever with the two wheel bearings on it that keeps the rack in contact with the pinion. Has anybody done something like this? I apologize if I missed it in the 55 pages previous but I don't recall seeing it. Someone mentioned allowing the rack press to move slightly past its factory position so it cannot direct itself back towards the rear of the machine in an apparent overload condition might be the answer. I can see where the more aligned the centerline of the bearings are with the rack press pivot point and centerline of the pinion the better, but what are the tolerances of this alignment? Can it be 0.001" off centerline or up to 0.1" or more?

    On the more recent machines, the linkage does lock the rack press into position so the flywheels will actually stall out, or do they really? Is there a clutch that slips between the flywheels and pinion shaft so they don't come to a complete stop? I'm afraid if I did latch the rack press then hit a solid object, the flywheels would need to immediately stop and that may result in stripped pinion or rack teeth, something else breaking, or maybe not??? Thoughts, experiences????
     
  17. daleeper

    daleeper ArboristSite Member

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    The linkage needs to be tightened up some, or improved some way. There is also a need for a centrifical clutch on the motor. I believe the DR clutch fits the old Speeco unit, but it as been quite a while since I did this to mine. Take a look at post #1088 above.
     
  18. ilikeurtractor

    ilikeurtractor ArboristSite Lurker

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    The motor does have a centrifugal clutch on mine. Whether or not it is as good as the others is in question.
     
  19. daleeper

    daleeper ArboristSite Member

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    If you have read post 1088 above, it explains why it is better, the pulley is smaller, and runs the flywheels slower. That is the main improvement.
     
  20. ilikeurtractor

    ilikeurtractor ArboristSite Lurker

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    Understood. Slowing the engine speed down I would think would work as well and this *should* allow the clutch to slip easier since less centrifugal (centripetal) force is applied, although this might cause it to overheat also due to excessive slippage. I've gathered the engine clutch slipping plays a critical role in insolating the engine from the flywheels under excessive load but I'm more concerned with abruptly stopping the two 70 lb. flywheels regardless of the association to the engine. I wonder if the rack and pinion can take this force without shearing? I'm sure it depends on the rate at which the flywheels are stopped and the speed of the wheels of course, and in this case the slower the better I agree. I'm guessing I will find out if I can successfully install a locking mechanism on the engagement yoke (I like this term better from the previous posts than my "rack press" term). I'm getting close to completing this and it has turned out to be more difficult than I originally anticipated. The most difficult part has been trying to devise the trip mechanism for the locker when the rack gets to the end of the travel. I have thought long and hard about that and have not come up with a lot of good options. There will also have to be additional linkage installation/modification on the engagement handle to release the yoke when a stall occurs, assuming it doesn't break something first! The design of this system is also limited to my ability to fabricate and install it which I'm pretty much limited to basic hand and power tools (i.e. no lathe or mill which would be helpful as the parts benefit from tighter tolerances and uniformity). I'm just hoping I don't go through the work only to instantly shear the teeth off the pinion and/or rack on the first stubborn piece of wood (the second or third piece wouldn't be much better!). But then I guess I'll know. I'll post my results when I get some.
     

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