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Olympyk, Olympic, Oleo Mac, Emak, Efco, Blitz, Folux, Spartan, Spartacus thread

markbakovic

markbakovic

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I think more like 14. Pounds are round the outside of that comp. gauge, looks like 167ish to me.
Thanks for the baking tip Ed, will give it a try. Anyway there's more to the story, it just got too late to upload more phone photos etc. last night...
 
edju1958

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I think more like 14. Pounds are round the outside of that comp. gauge, looks like 167ish to me.
Thanks for the baking tip Ed, will give it a try. Anyway there's more to the story, it just got too late to upload more phone photos etc. last night...
I can't wait to hear the rest of the story.I'm interested in how the Chinese coil works out.I belong to another forum that deals strictly in Homelites & there are guys there who have used a Chinese made Husky coil to revive their saws.Seems they've had good results.
 
markbakovic

markbakovic

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Now to glue the new coil to the laminates...
But I needed something to shim the bigger hole around the centre pole to get the coil straight.
DSC_0784.JPG
I know, some of the cheap module laminates!
DSC_0787.JPG
DSC_0788.JPG
I thought I'd use 4, ended up being 2.
DSC_0789.JPG DSC_0791.JPG DSC_0793.JPG
No interference with bolt holes or flywheel.
DSC_0794.JPG
Pretty firmly on there so I canned the glue idea (who knows how long this one will last anyway).
DSC_0795.JPG
Neater zipties for that added all-day confidence we all need sometimes.
DSC_0796.JPG
Let's see if it runs?
Burp'll do (and saved me killing it by hotwire).
Oleo Mac even saw (pun!) fit to equip the 264 with a threaded M5 hole just behind the plug hole to connect a ground wire from a non-spot-welded-to-laminates coil ground on a 34-years-in-the-future gokart coil made by Communists in Asia. Those dudes had some foresight, man. Good fat sparks now.
Got a non-resistor CJ8Y (one range hotter than spec, all they had at Bunnings) just in case, but left the BMR6Y in in the end, since it sparks good and the 2020 cheapshit coil ratio is crazily higher than original (no doubt due to leaps and bounds in breakdown voltages available in transistors and caps now that we live in the future).
Didn't run.
Oh, I put the wrong terminal to ground.
Fat sparks again, reckon it'll run.
Result.

And so it sits right now:
DSC_0810.JPG
Needs bar dressed and cleaned more thoroughly (was also full of swarf) or replaced, and chain sharpened (with both files this time...) before I can comment on the gutless issue. Probably needs tuning. Still waiting for some Stihl (hopetheyfit) clutch springs to show up.
If it is hopeless in wood after tuning my next inkling is that the fuel line that's floppier than [insert flaccid dickjoke] is collapsing at high suck.
If it turns tree to mouse bedding like it actually has its claimed 7 horsepower (truly. they claim. I doubt) I opine weak spark under load due to dying ignition, too much gunk in places that want none, much raker, such troughs where the rails on that nice solid power match bar should be, springs don't make good clutch shoes and chain too tight. In that order or some combination of all of them.
Thanks for reading and if you've a spare 264/F chainbrake handle you'd part with I'm all ears, if not necessarily all wallet ;)
 
edju1958

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Great to see you got the old girl up & running! I think from the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust that the carb is set too rich.If the saw has been sitting for a length of time,especially with fuel in it,it probably could use a rebuild.I know it has a Tilly carb & it'll take an RK23HS kit.Removing the carb is kinda a PITA,but not impossible (after all I did it,Lol).Once the carb has been gone through I think you'll see a world of difference.You could just try cleaning & tuning it first.Awesome job!
 
markbakovic

markbakovic

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Great to see you got the old girl up & running! I think from the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust that the carb is set too rich.If the saw has been sitting for a length of time,especially with fuel in it,it probably could use a rebuild.I know it has a Tilly carb & it'll take an RK23HS kit.Removing the carb is kinda a PITA,but not impossible (after all I did it,Lol).Once the carb has been gone through I think you'll see a world of difference.You could just try cleaning & tuning it first.Awesome job!
Yeah it four strokes a bit just off idle too ay, but I'm not surprised since carb fiddling was about the previous owner's comfort level (told me since he thought it might need a ring that was too much for him, hence the reasonable asking price).

Also who knows what the mower shop "tried to get it going", not sure if I should believe they didn't just tell him "coil's stuffed, can't get em, can we sell you a husky?".

Tbh I'm looking forward to fiddling with the carbie a bit before I rebuild it; got the rk already. If I can get a good bar and chain to pull satisfactorily through a test block (got some scribblybark rounds that are pretty well hardened) I might just leave it for now. Not gonna be playing arborist or logger without a chainbrake the way this tree is lying!
DSC_0747.JPG
 
edju1958

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Yeah,I've been there with the mower & saw shops telling me they can't get the parts & then turn around & try to sell me a new saw.Shortly after that I started working on my own saws.I still hear the same routine when I try to sell a saw (Homelite or McCulloch) "they've been out of business for over 25 yrs.,I won't be able to get parts for it",to which I reply "funny thing I have no problem getting parts".I just went through this crap back 2 months ago.I have an Oly 234,nice little saw.The electronic ignition module went bad right after I got the saw running again for the first time in almost 2 yrs.I contacted Efco headquarters in Mn.& I was told there was one module left in stock,but I'd have to go through a dealer to get it.I found an online dealer & they charged me $49.95 + $10 shipping.I contacted them twice & they gave me a refund,but never notified me.So the saw sits.
 
markbakovic

markbakovic

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Plenty of homelites and mccullouchs at the hardware stores here ;P

As long as the coil fits on the core a Chinese kart one might work for you. Timing could be **** up top though, will let you know.
 
markbakovic

markbakovic

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tuned it (roughly, no point wasting too much time till the clutch is good and its driving a chain).
runs fine and goes good up top, so the timing's close. decided to keep it rich and self-limited till it has more load and my tacho comes.
still pretty smokey at idle but it tips and tilts happily so i'll worry about that later. could also be the excess oil from the air filter is contributing, i wet it pretty good...
sounds like an italian 2 stroke should to my ears ;P
 
edju1958

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I just bought an Olympik 241 for $29.The saw looks to be in great condition & looks to have the original bar on it.I have no idea if it has spark,I'll find out soon enough.Not sure if the saw is points & condenser or electronic ignition.
If you're reading this Mark I'd like some info on that Chinese module you bought for your saw.It seems that the module I ordered for the 234 never came in.I was refunded my money,but I'd like to see if I can get it running again.
 
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