yep
i meant no way to adjust it...
try bending rod, make it lil longer?
i meant no way to adjust it...
try bending rod, make it lil longer?
Pioneer chainsaws
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2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Does it need a sip of air?
RAS61
ArboristSite Operative
Farmsaw Opinions? I may have an opportunity to pick one up in good condition (except for a broken pull starter, surprise, surprise) for not much money. I like old saws, but would want it to be a good runner and not just a nostalgia piece for the shelf. From what I've been able to read they've got a pretty good rep except for the starter, anything else to look out for, and of course can it still pull it's weight against newer 65 cc saws? Thanks!
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They are very good saws - I ran one for a couple decades cutting firewood. They do not have the power or speed of a modern 64cc pro saw, but they start easily, are good on fuel, quiet, don't vibrate excessively (think Homelite, ugh) and with a sharp chain have plenty of power for medium sized wood. They have a bit of a reputation for bad coils, and I had to put one new coil on mine when it was about 10 years old. I never had a problem with the starter/recoil.
From my experience, albeit limited hours, they are good saws. The emphasis is on torque. They can cut fast, but not like the chain speed of a modern saw. Where they (FS, P40/41) shine for me, is grunt. You can bear down on them and they keep chipping away. I prefer muscle over speed. I also like the ergonomics, balance and handle layout. They have mass, but the FS with half-wrap and plastic starter cover is easier to maneuver than the full-wrap, mag-cover 40/41's.
The ignition coil is a weak component. The starter mechanism won't hold up if it is not maintained and operated correctly. Some folks on here purchased them new in the early 80's and are still running them.
Depending on how much more it would cost to repair/replace the starter components and/or coil, one might consider looking for a running P41 as an option in that weight class. Stronger where it counts and hits the sweet spot for a 4 cube muscle saw.
Not gonna lie though. The Farmsaw owns one of the nicest looking colour schemes to ever come off the assembly line.
The ignition coil is a weak component. The starter mechanism won't hold up if it is not maintained and operated correctly. Some folks on here purchased them new in the early 80's and are still running them.
Depending on how much more it would cost to repair/replace the starter components and/or coil, one might consider looking for a running P41 as an option in that weight class. Stronger where it counts and hits the sweet spot for a 4 cube muscle saw.
Not gonna lie though. The Farmsaw owns one of the nicest looking colour schemes to ever come off the assembly line.
RAS61
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, a little slow is fine, more concerned with vibration, and they certainly do look sharp! If I get it I'll post a pic
I bought my FarmSaw brand new in New Mexico 1979 or 80 I asked for and got a 20" bar, there were/are no dogs. It was a replacement for a Skill 16" that had I found a cliff would be at the bottom! I told my local outlet I preferred something without a chain brake. The FarmSaw was their answer. It performed flawlessly From the time I bought it Until sometime in late 1985 (she went into storage for 3 years while I was in Germany)... In New Mexico I ran into one downed log that was so large I had to cut as deep as I could, I went to the opposite side again cut as deeply as I could, wedged off both cuts and made the final cut in what was left. I sold a FarmSaw to a family using a Deere (24" bar) during that outing. They could not believe how much better my FarmSaw performed than their Deere. Honestly, I think a large part of that was chain condition but there was a considerable difference. 1990 I retired from the AF and we moved to Washington state. The FarmSaw worked as well here as it had in NM until I got the starter handle caught in brush, continued cutting, and ground the top off the take-up spool. I purchased a 359 Husky as a replacement. It took a few years before I came across a replacement spool. I replaced it, threw a little mix in her throat and she started. I used her almost exclusively until a Get together in Oregon. There I made the mistake of storing her on the ground under a tarp. The coil condensed some moisture and she would not start. I put her away... Sometime back I read about and baked that wonderful Prestolite coil. She's alive again and is now back-up for my 359. I have complete faith in her and I'm certain a little mix in her throat and she'll start and cut like she always has.
Don't get me wrong I like my Husky too but the FarmSaw like my first new car, a 68 290 Javelin (Milan Michigan Dragway pure stock winner 68, 69 (bettered a 69 Nova 307), and 70 (the Nova was back paid his entry, saw me and left), those were the only times I ever raced her) are special. The FarmSaw and the Javelin (I drove her 12 years and about 200,000 miles) will always have a place in my heart.
Don't get me wrong I like my Husky too but the FarmSaw like my first new car, a 68 290 Javelin (Milan Michigan Dragway pure stock winner 68, 69 (bettered a 69 Nova 307), and 70 (the Nova was back paid his entry, saw me and left), those were the only times I ever raced her) are special. The FarmSaw and the Javelin (I drove her 12 years and about 200,000 miles) will always have a place in my heart.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
I think you will be surprised how good the av is on a saw this old. The power is pretty decent as well. My dad's farmsaw was probably the first saw I ever ran. It runs great to this day.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
The dawgs Paul had made are sweet. I use them on my 655 and P52 instead of the giant talons that eat up 2" of my bar length.
This dog is looking for a dawg for a p60 project here. Big/small not picky. Anyone? Thx
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
Here are some pics of my p42hp complete rebuild. I'm waiting on decals and a chain break spring, and then it will be all done.
Awesome job. Better then new
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you very much. It's powder coated, so it should last a good long time. Cheap chainsaw parts on ebay has the big felling dawgs for the 5 and 6 cube Pioneer saws. I think they are $12.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
Outboard dogs for P42, P45, P39, PP405, PP455, etc.
From my timber cutting days, especially in the Northwest, I'm still very much in the habit of putting a smile on a tree for a face cut, i.e. a Humboldt cut. Not having outboard dogs on the smaller Pioneers has always been vexing.
These aren't nearly as pretty as the ones BPHill had made for the big P-series saws, but they work just dandy. And I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this solution.
It took longer to figure out the pattern than to cut out a couple of these with a plasma cutter. You may be able to print out my pattern full-size, if you want to use it.
From my timber cutting days, especially in the Northwest, I'm still very much in the habit of putting a smile on a tree for a face cut, i.e. a Humboldt cut. Not having outboard dogs on the smaller Pioneers has always been vexing.
These aren't nearly as pretty as the ones BPHill had made for the big P-series saws, but they work just dandy. And I'm sure I'm not the first to come up with this solution.
It took longer to figure out the pattern than to cut out a couple of these with a plasma cutter. You may be able to print out my pattern full-size, if you want to use it.
Out of curiosity, (and slightly off topic), how do you correctly line up the undercut on a Humboldt to accurately meet the first face cut? I see vids of guys doing it like the bar has eyes and the cuts meet perfectly every time. And not to stray too far off topic...
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
Can't help you with the Humbolt notch as I can't ever make them look right! But Hillwilliam can probably help you. He cuts a very pretty notch in a tree. Almost like he's done it a few times.
What's overheating on the saw?
Maybe try a K & N filter setup to eliminate the rubber air filter boot and top cover .Should let some more heat out and maybe that will help?
Don't mean this to be insulting, just asking. Are you running the chain looser on the hard-nose bar? I was taught that they need to be looser that a sprocket tip bar and never had any issues doing it that way. But, I don't run them very often either.
Or,
You could send that saw to me and I'll promise to only run it in cool weather for short periods of time.
What's overheating on the saw?
Maybe try a K & N filter setup to eliminate the rubber air filter boot and top cover .Should let some more heat out and maybe that will help?
Don't mean this to be insulting, just asking. Are you running the chain looser on the hard-nose bar? I was taught that they need to be looser that a sprocket tip bar and never had any issues doing it that way. But, I don't run them very often either.
Or,
You could send that saw to me and I'll promise to only run it in cool weather for short periods of time.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
In 1986 or 1987 they improved the cylinder to fix the overheating problem. Give Rottman sales a call they have some top ends. They might also have a boost port hint hint.
I believe you mentioned the Rottman solution when I originally brought up the overheating issue. Only wish I had the extra resources to jump on that. In the meantime I just grab my trusty old 066 flat top instead.
And yep, Paul. I have what most would probably consider appropriate chain slack for the hard nose bar. And there's no shortage of oil flow with this guy, either! The heating issue is just a problem awaiting the attention it deserves one of these days. I've only run it in large wood once..., bucking and noodling 30" American elm. It heated up pretty quick and I've been nervous about it since.
But I really would like to be able to cut a Humboldt notch like Buckin' Billy Ray. LOL
And yep, Paul. I have what most would probably consider appropriate chain slack for the hard nose bar. And there's no shortage of oil flow with this guy, either! The heating issue is just a problem awaiting the attention it deserves one of these days. I've only run it in large wood once..., bucking and noodling 30" American elm. It heated up pretty quick and I've been nervous about it since.
But I really would like to be able to cut a Humboldt notch like Buckin' Billy Ray. LOL
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
These turned out great. Looking forward to trying them out.
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
I probably have one or two more of these that I'd part with If you're interested, send me a PM and we'll figure it out.
Nothing fancy but they fit and work
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