Pioneer chainsaws

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l have never run a saw with these performance Boyesen Reed setup . Were is the sweet spot in noticeable engine response,. low end torque , overall mid range performance or higher rpm's or all the above.
Little more on the top end, and better low end manners if that makes sense. If the saw is modded they make a bigger difference.
 
Question is this common problem or not with these Fibre reeds? l am refering to the damage on tip of reed.
No I do not believe that is a common problem with fiber reeds. What I do believe is it is common wear of fiber reeds. that reed in the photo appears to be an origional fiberglass possibly from before they started using the 2 stage reeds.

Ironhorse on YouTube did a video recently on the wear on fiberglass and carbon fiber reeds. It shows many different reeds and the causes of wear, stress on the reeds.
 
No I do not believe that is a common problem with fiber reeds. What I do believe is it is common wear of fiber reeds. that reed in the photo appears to be an origional fiberglass possibly from before they started using the 2 stage reeds.

Ironhorse on YouTube did a video recently on the wear on fiberglass and carbon fiber reeds. It shows many different reeds and the causes of wear, stress on the reeds.

Great , l will check out lronhorse video. The only Pioneer Saw l have had with 2 stage reeds has been the 6 cube western model. l am assuming ? they were Oem but l am not sure.Part # ?.
The single stage Fibre is more common to me.
 
Great , l will check out lronhorse video. The only Pioneer Saw l have had with 2 stage reeds has been the 6 cube western model. l am assuming ? they were Oem but l am not sure.Part # ?.
The single stage Fibre is more common to me.
My p61 western has them, and my grandpa bought it brand new. It very well could have been a dealer add on as well though. Not sure on the part number if Pioneer even had a number for them. Only number I have seen is the Boyenson numbers.
 
Got my 700 sandblasted, sprayed the primer and color over the weekend, need to wait to spray the clear, but should be a nice looking saw when its done.

View attachment 814977
I have a 750 it did run but the cases have a lot of broken pieces I think your giving me a little motivation to get at it..
Could you let me know the seal and bearing info, were they from Motion Ca.
Might still be hanging around the house for awhile.
 
I have a 750 it did run but the cases have a lot of broken pieces I think your giving me a little motivation to get at it..
Could you let me know the seal and bearing info, were they from Motion Ca.
Might still be hanging around the house for awhile.
My 1750 had lots of busted up pieces, but liberal use of JB Weld, screen, metal straps, rivets, and bondo to hide everything make it so that no one can tell where most of the repairs were made.
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Pulls a 3ft 3/8" b&c like nothing through maple.

The bearings are 6203's the originals are shielded, but I replaced them with open ones. The seals are 1.25"OD x 17mm shaft x 1/4" thick. I replaced them with 32x17x7 and they work fine, a little tight to fit on the OD, but they still fit. I got all of the seals from motion. I believe they were less than $3 each, so I ordered several sets. Had to get them from their warehouse back east, but they arrived within a week. They're the same on the large PM saws (270, 275 etc). Interesting note, the seals on the PM 360 are the same as the earlier large pioneers, 650/RA/600/HM/HC. Also interesting is the wrist pin bearing BH-108 are the same on the PM and large pioneers. I'd guess that the crank/connecting rod bearings are also the same, but I didn't check. The rod on the pioneer is just longer than the one in the PM360, so you could likely swap one if it was ever needed (given how scarce PM parts seem to be)

I only know this because I happened to have them both apart at the same time on the bench.
 
My 1750 had lots of busted up pieces, but liberal use of JB Weld, screen, metal straps, rivets, and bondo to hide everything make it so that no one can tell where most of the repairs were made.
View attachment 814985
View attachment 814986

Pulls a 3ft 3/8" b&c like nothing through maple.

The bearings are 6203's the originals are shielded, but I replaced them with open ones. The seals are 1.25"OD x 17mm shaft x 1/4" thick. I replaced them with 32x17x7 and they work fine, a little tight to fit on the OD, but they still fit. I got all of the seals from motion. I believe they were less than $3 each, so I ordered several sets. Had to get them from their warehouse back east, but they arrived within a week. They're the same on the large PM saws (270, 275 etc). Interesting note, the seals on the PM 360 are the same as the earlier large pioneers, 650/RA/600/HM/HC. Also interesting is the wrist pin bearing BH-108 are the same on the PM and large pioneers. I'd guess that the crank/connecting rod bearings are also the same, but I didn't check. The rod on the pioneer is just longer than the one in the PM360, so you could likely swap one if it was ever needed (given how scarce PM parts seem to be)

I only know this because I happened to have them both apart at the same time on the bench.
Thanks good info, I have to call Motion to see about the bearings I ordered for the PM19A so maybe order for the pioneer 750 and the PM 270 and 275, they might be next winter projects
 
My FarmSaw fuel cap also swelled. I think it is a longstanding, common Pioneer occurrence.
I DO NOT put my FarmSaw away with fuel aboard and haven't had that problem since I started doing that!
When not exposed to fuel fumes I think your cap will shrink back to normal.
 
I think the plastic Pioneer/Partner/Poulan used for the caps has a reaction with petroleum fumes that causes swelling over time. I have never had that problem with the oil cap.
One other thing while I'm thinking about it, odds are fairly good there are internal fuel cap parts on the bottom of your tank. Mine puked out the fuel cap metal keeper and the parts below it. That also hasn't recurred with a dry tank.
 
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