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Rebuilding stihl 044

Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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ok ordered meteor 50mm rebuild kit for stihl 044 with 10mm wrist pin. Replaced fuel lines and the fuel plenum from the carb to the cylinder head. I was surprised when taking it apart that there was no gasket material between the carb and the plenum, although rubber should provide decent seal, however there is no gasket between the carb and the thin metal sheet that the throttle linkage goes through, and also no gasket between the thin metal sheet and the plastic cover that slides onto the carb bolts (this piece of plastic is where the air filter fits to), not positive why my 044 had some issues this year, never had a prob before. It wouldnt run well at full throttle, and ended up taking it in to get it looked at and ound the cylinder scored. Didnt want to buy a new one ( that is what dealer tried to do). Just waiting on cylinder kit, and gas tank vent line now. Well and answer if there should be a gasket material used on those surfaces i mentioned above.

Thanks
Mike
 
Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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Ill tell you what ....ive gone over all of the fuel lines...and the plenum between the carb and cylinder, i see no wear or issues whatsoever....the only thing that may have been suspect is the gas tank vent tube...maybe the gas was a little stale but, weedeaters fs76, and fs85, backpack blowers br420c, and br600, polesaw ht131, saws ms192tc, 044, 029, Never had an issue ever before.. i hate to rebuild this and have it happen again. From wear on exhaust side of piston primarily think a ring got stuck but hard to say .. any suggestions?
 
NIP Group
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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All saws need to be Vac and pressure tested, otherwise its just a guessing game of what is going on, air leaks amount for about half of all scoring cases, stale old fuel, carb set too lean and poor oil or not enough oil in the mix makes up most of the other causes. Ruling out air leaks should be a first step in determining what possibly caused the scoring.
 
TRTermite

TRTermite

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Had the fuel tank vent pointed out to me by a husky shop on a J 2186 as a possible culprit and the fuel line was 17 years old and loose on the carb so think that combination toasted the piston managed to saved the cyl.
 
Chainsaw Jim

Chainsaw Jim

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When replacing a top end on a burned up 044 you'll want to also replace crank oil seals, spacer o- ring, impulse line, and carb kit.
I'd suggest replacing all the parts before performing a vacuum/pressure test. You already know one or more of those components will leak, plus the overheating stiffens the impulse and seals. Generally you'll have a tight build when you're done and will be glad you only had to set up the vac test kit once.
 
Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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Can a 12mm crankshaft go into a case of a 10mm saw? My bearing puller slipped and the threads on the fly wheel side got buggered up slightly.. nut tightens. But it screwed threads on nut up ..got another nut same thing.. not sure what to do.
 
Backyard Lumberjack

Backyard Lumberjack

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Can a 12mm crankshaft go into a case of a 10mm saw? My bearing puller slipped and the threads on the fly wheel side got buggered up slightly.. nut tightens. But it screwed threads on nut up ..got another nut same thing.. not sure what to do.
yes, it can. also have an 044 on-going modded saw project... I have a new 12 mm crank for it...

if it was mine, i would get out my set of machinists files... small precision fine files. and rework the threads back into shape. i would work them sufficienly so that a new nut screwed on with no resistance. I would use a light machine oil such as 3-1 each time I tried and tested the nut. most likely the tapered edge file and the small round file would be most helpful. I might even kiss the thread's sides with a dremel cut off disc lightly, too. mission: remove all out of position metal, restore thread's integrity to OE spec.. with care easy to do.

I remember the day, years ago... barely 19 yrs old... just past midnight... there I was doing sam-o to front axle on my car. the nut had come off and result was some messed up spindle/axle threads. nut would not go on. once done and much closer to sunrise... I had the wheel securely on. and home i went.

I took better care of it after that... lol

for example:

https://www.toolbarn.com/shop-by-category/hand/sanding-filing/files/

if on a budget, Harbor Freight has some low buc offerings/sets...

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=machinist files

(just add word files to this link once opened at HF. it has dropped files)

P9210028.JPG
 
drf255

drf255

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Can a 12mm crankshaft go into a case of a 10mm saw? My bearing puller slipped and the threads on the fly wheel side got buggered up slightly.. nut tightens. But it screwed threads on nut up ..got another nut same thing.. not sure what to do.
It needs work to make it fit. Some say there are different cases for the 10mm saw. Generally you’ll need to sand the large rod end a bit.

Some say the case needs to be relieved for the counterweights on certain cases, but that wasn’t my experience.

I have a few 10mm cranks if you need one.
 
Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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Is there a inside and outside for the bearings? Meaning does it matter which way they face? The old bearings had a piece inside holding the bearings in place that was a little different than the new ones...dumbass me didnt look at which way bearings were oriented when i removed them....the flywheel side i am sure about the orientation because that one came out still on the shaft after splitting the crank case
 
Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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The new bearings...if you look close you can see the bearing spacer inside the race..only on one side and metal..on the new ones...and also on the deeper raced bearing u can see the recessed edge on one side of the bearing...goes all the way around
 
Mike Whitmore

Mike Whitmore

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The clutch side... the piston and reason for the rebuild... and the place where the saw grenade went off
 

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