Been cutting firewood for almost 20 years. Used to just take my chains in to get them sharpened. A few years ago I got a dirty load of pulpwood and was dulling chains fast. I’ve been hand filing my own chains now. After reading a lot and watching videos, I’m getting decent at it. What I’ve noticed is after I file 3 or 4 times, I can’t get the tip of my saw to cut as well. If I cut closer to the powerhead, it seems to cut good. I can hear the saw reving higher and even occasionally smell some burning wood. I‘ve been using the tip a lot because I have a lot of small diameter wood this year, and I don’t have to bend over as far. Being 6’5” and getting older, I prefer to be more upright these days . I figured my rakers needed to come down, but when I put my stihl raker gauge on, they seem fine? I’m thinking I’m just going to take the rakers down some and see what happens. I threw a brand new chain on today half way through the day and it was cutting great at the tip again, and the saw wasn’t reving so high. Night and day difference when cutting at the tip between the two chains. I’m using a Stihl 362C with 24” Oregon versa cut bar And chain. But I found the same pattern when using my 20” stihl bars and chains too. Is it unreasonable to expect a handfiled chain to cut as good as, or close to, a brand new chain Out of the box?
Sharpening chain
- Thread starter Chaser77
- Start date
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The depth gauge tools that lay across a couple teeth stop working when the tooth is about half way filed back. The proper way to set depth gauge clearance is with a progressive gauge like this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...09WAG&linkId=8c8131be986816a09a5b654562c6ec32
A proper hand filed chain should cut better than a new one.
A proper hand filed chain should cut better than a new one.
A well filed chain cuts almost better than any thing. I do my best to never bend over as that is what knee pads are for. You describe a chain that needs the rakers taken down more. thanks
Welcome to A.S.!
Info on a variety of depth gauge tools in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/
Philbert
Info on a variety of depth gauge tools in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/
Philbert
Sure sounds like depth gauge problem. Maybe post a close up pic of the chain just so we can eliminate any other possibilities?
savageactor7
ArboristSite Guru
As a wood cutter with a bad back I'm a long time tip cutter, which btw is dangerous in that it can cause a 'kick back'. As long as we know that then we are prepared.
For a better tip cut you should file down the burrs on the bar especially the TIP with a flat file. That's it.
About every 3'd time I sharpen, or the situation dictates, while sharpening the chain I flat file the burs off the bar, rotate the bar when putting it on. This after the saw gets a compressed air bath.
Good luck, stay safe and Happy Thanksgiving.
For a better tip cut you should file down the burrs on the bar especially the TIP with a flat file. That's it.
About every 3'd time I sharpen, or the situation dictates, while sharpening the chain I flat file the burs off the bar, rotate the bar when putting it on. This after the saw gets a compressed air bath.
Good luck, stay safe and Happy Thanksgiving.
Take the rakers down a couple strokes
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Another problem could be your file is dull and you aren't getting down into the gullet, making a "square" cutting edge. The square edge requires more pressure to cut. A sharp file and some attention to the cutter gullet may help.
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
While you're at it, check the gauge of the bar and bar surface all the way around. (There may be more than one issue at hand.)
If the chain can wobble around in the cut the cutting speed will be reduced as the chain kerf increases and makes a wider cut.
If the bar is wearing quickly:
If the chain can wobble around in the cut the cutting speed will be reduced as the chain kerf increases and makes a wider cut.
If the bar is wearing quickly:
- Check if the bar oil hole is clean and able to feed oil to the chain.
- Check the oiler output (spray off the bar) after a refill.
- Check the oil spray off the bar several times during cutting.
- Re-sharpen the chain (1 to 2 light passes with the file) every tank of fuel.
- Use a file guide if your filing isn't perfect, perfect your skill on old bars/chains.
nathan4104
ArboristSite Operative
I’ve been hand filing for a few years now. With Sandy/muddy wood sometimes, a chain per cord or less is what I seem to go through. On the processor it’s just easier to change the chain out than sharpen in place. I’ve tried every gadget but the Sthil 2-1 file. Sometimes they turn out great. Sometimes not. The depth gauges (rakers) as others have mentioned sound like the issue more than anything. Like others have mentioned, about every :rd sharpening they need to be taken down a few file strokes. And sharp files. I keep my file clean and don’t back drag them but only manage about 15 sharpening’s with a Sthil file (all I can get locally). Mind you my chains are dull....much more than using a saw as I have more leverage and can power them through dull for a while.
nathan4104
ArboristSite Operative
I tried one but found it a pain! By the time I’d adjust the depth, then do the rakers, I could have hand filed 2 chains. My processor is fussy with cutting crooked as any would be I assume.... they won’t.... the bar jams up. Even with the teeth all over the placebo length, if they get that way, as long as the rakers are filed to match each tooth, it’ll cut straight.
Like anything else, there is a learning curve, and development of skill. After a while, I can chew gum AND listen to the radio while I grind!
Big advantage is ‘evening up’ a worn chain, for a fresh start.
Philbert
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Firewood processor or a harvester? If your tooth length is off it’ll cause the binding you’re talking about. To the depth gauges especially on a hydraulic chain system they have to be set correctly or you’re going to burn out saw motors.
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I use the Stihl 2-1 file guide.
Replace files with each new chain at least.
Check the bar for burrs as others have said.
Use a bench vise when sharpening.
Replace files with each new chain at least.
Check the bar for burrs as others have said.
Use a bench vise when sharpening.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Have a new progressive depth gauge coming and new files too. I‘m really thinking it must not be a Bar/oil issue because of how good it cut with the new chain? The bar is brand new too. Only been through a couple cords with it. i did check it out tonight and there was no burr on the bar edge. I did check my chain out a little closer and just put a straight edge across 2 teeth and used a feeler gauge. Looks like rakers have to come down but I will wait until the new gauge comes and do that. I don’t have any daylight to test it out with by the time I’m home from work during the week.
For STIHL ‘2-in-1’ file users: I found that the replacement, rectangular, depth gauge file is approximately $14 at my STIHL dealer, and the equivalent Pferd one is only $10 at Bailey’s (no additional shipping cost if you are already placing an order there).
Philbert
Very impressive your skill management. I am challenged to sit or crouch over my chain on the saw while sharpening it. I am always watching every thing else, but the chain in front of me. Thanks
Pferd is $11.36 at Amazon and Prime if you're a member. An option if you're not placing a Bailey's order.
nathan4104
ArboristSite Operative
Hello, it’s a firewood processor, belt driven saw bar. Ya it will not cut crooked at all! Like I mentioned, as long as the depth gauges are set ‘per tooth’ the length of teeth can be all over the place and it cuts just fine. I get a lot of junk chains from work (wildland firefighters) they toss them rather than sharpen sometimes... but some are mangled bad. But they’ve all been useable after some filing.
Chaser, glad you’ve had a chance to look things over and look forward to hearing how you make out when you have a chance!
