Side and back lean

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CanadianChris

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Would like to get some advice on how to fall the tree in the picture posted. I put the saw in front for size reference. Its a stihl 026 with a 20 inch bar.

A purchased a massdam rope puller to try and persuade it to fall where either red arrows point. Am i kidding myself that the masdaam will work on something this big? I am looking to get an idea how a pro would approach this. Btw i think it's poplar.

Thanks for your time

20200918_170405.jpg


20200924_202143.jpg
 
Got any buddies with a 4x4 with a winch and snatch block?

is there an anchor point in the direction that you want it to fall?

If Yes to questions 1&2, use a snatch block to redirect the cable, and keep the vehicle out of the fall zone

If No to either or both, maybe call a professional, they would probably take it down in pieces


Doug :cheers:
 
Got any buddies with a 4x4 with a winch and snatch block?

is there an anchor point in the direction that you want it to fall?

If Yes to questions 1&2, use a snatch block to redirect the cable, and keep the vehicle out of the fall zone

If No to either or both, maybe call a professional, they would probably take it down in pieces


Doug :cheers:
there are trees i could use as an anchor point, but no buddies with 4x4 or winch and snatch block. Is this just too much to overcome for the masdaam?
 
There is a clearing running up the hill to the right of the lean. Is there anything up there that it may hit. If there isn't I would be more inclined to hinge it over that way and avoid having to pull it back over itself.
 
There is a clearing running up the hill to the right of the lean. Is there anything up there that it may hit. If there isn't I would be more inclined to hinge it over that way and avoid having to pull it back over itself.
i'll keep that in mind. Would you recommend using the rope puller?
 
There is a clearing running up the hill to the right of the lean. Is there anything up there that it may hit. If there isn't I would be more inclined to hinge it over that way and avoid having to pull it back over itself.
You mean up and to the left in the picture?
 
There are a number of ways to deal with this issue. The most typical way I deal with them is to use a sling shot to launch a larger nut with a contractor's string tied to it. Once I get the shot I want and for me it can take many tries to get it right. I tie a large rope or 1/4'' line depending on how high the target is. For higher trees the 1/4'' is a must because the more line that is suspended the heavier it is. Then pull a 1/2'' line or 5/8'' and have even gone to 1 1/4'' line a few times. Then I go to some good anchor points and attach what ever you have could be chain cable or. Two 4,000 lb come a longs can be obtained for $40 when on sale or maybe CL. With attached line at least fifty feet high I will have great leverage. So crank the come alongs tight and do your face cut as no do not do it last. At this point I will see the tree sway to the direction I want said tree to go. Crank come a longs tight again. Then I back cut and pull wedge out. Crank come a longs tight again. If tree has not moved to the desired direction some stop and figure out what is wrong. I Repeat until only about 4'' of wood is remaining in the hinge. At this point the tree should be moving and let it go. Thanks
 
If you know the tricks, you can make a tree do gravity - defying moves with a hand winch. But... You gotta know the tricks, and the "feel" of what you can get away with only comes through experience. The actual physics and geometry are straightforward enough. There is a guy on YouTube, who ran a series of tutorials where he explained and demonstrated these principles very thoroughly, I'll try and find him a post a vid....edit, found him - Terry Hale.

 
If you know the tricks, you can make a tree do gravity - defying moves with a hand winch. But... You gotta know the tricks, and the "feel" of what you can get away with only comes through experience. The actual physics and geometry are straightforward enough. There is a guy on YouTube, who ran a series of tutorials where he explained and demonstrated these principles very thoroughly, I'll try and find him a post a vid....edit, found him - Terry Hale.


Thanks for the info. I'm alright with the basic stuff. Even the mid size trees. I think this is probably more than I can handle without a significant investment in equipment and learning.
 
There are a number of ways to deal with this issue. The most typical way I deal with them is to use a sling shot to launch a larger nut with a contractor's string tied to it. Once I get the shot I want and for me it can take many tries to get it right. I tie a large rope or 1/4'' line depending on how high the target is. For higher trees the 1/4'' is a must because the more line that is suspended the heavier it is. Then pull a 1/2'' line or 5/8'' and have even gone to 1 1/4'' line a few times. Then I go to some good anchor points and attach what ever you have could be chain cable or. Two 4,000 lb come a longs can be obtained for $40 when on sale or maybe CL. With attached line at least fifty feet high I will have great leverage. So crank the come alongs tight and do your face cut as no do not do it last. At this point I will see the tree sway to the direction I want said tree to go. Crank come a longs tight again. Then I back cut and pull wedge out. Crank come a longs tight again. If tree has not moved to the desired direction some stop and figure out what is wrong. I Repeat until only about 4'' of wood is remaining in the hinge. At this point the tree should be moving and let it go. Thanks
Thanks for your information.
 
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