The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[mogulmasher]

^^ Oou those shavings are deadly mogulmasher!!!!! hand file 3/8? wow!!! iwannachopwood. Shout out to Mark for all kinds of parts i needed and helped me out with some info ,and fossil you guys rock!

Haha, thanks! Yes starting to get the hang of the hand filing. This one is still a relatively new 3/8" Husky chain that I've only touched up once though.

I don't currently own and old Macs, but back when I did, my left arm biceps got huge! Since getting rid of the Macs, I have lost a lot of strength. Pulling on those old macs was excellent exercise!

Yeah like Mark says something must be wrong. Mine all start just as quick as my newer saws. If it takes more than a handful of pulls to pop off, back to the work bench to check it out.

 

[ML12]

I store my saws dry, so the first time they get fueled after sitting it usually takes more than a few pulls to get them going. Once they've been run, most are 1 to 2 pulls.

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

Got a question for you guys. I have a 600002U model of Mac 10-10A and am trying to replace the crank seals. I'm struggling to remove the clutch assembly at the moment. I was able to get the nut off of the clutch by using a small piece of rope as a piston stop. But the assembly itself is stuck on the spindle. Very frustrating! Any tips on removing this assembly without damaging it?

 

[2broke2ride]

Put the nut back on just until it sits flush with the end of the crank. Pick the saw up by the clutch drum and give the end of the crank a good, sharp, square smack with a hammer. Brass hammer is preferred here but you can use a regular hammer as long as you're careful to hit it square.

 

[heimannm]

If that is a RH thread on the clutch nut, the clutch will have a key so sometimes the clutch will come loose but the drum won't come off until you remove the key. As Kevin noted, nut on the crankshaft to protect the threads and support it by the clutch, a good rap or to and it will come loose but don't be fooled if it all doesn't just come right off.

Mark

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

Thanks guys, got it off, no issues! And got fresh cranks seals in for both sides of the saw tonight - definitely needed them.

 

[heimannm]

If you come up with a good way to pull the PTO side seal without damaging the bore, please share. I usually find it necessary to split the crankcase to get the old one out and the new one in. I like to put the seal on the crankshaft tight to the bearing then use the bearing to back it out a bit to insure it is square on the shaft and not in contact with the bearing. Since the crankcase halves are not perfectly machined on the exterior surfaces, getting a new seal to slip into the bore is more challenging that I care to undertake.

The larger displacement saws (60 cc and up) use an insert (sleeve) that the bearing and seal press in. Very difficult to get the seal over the square shoulder on the shaft without some aid, I made a tapered sleeve that installs over the shaft to allow the seal lips to slide on without catching and popping the garter spring off.





Mark

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

My buddy and I were looking for some type of pick to remove it but we couldn't find one so we improvised using an old feeler gauge we had laying around haha. We punctured the rubber slightly, went all the way around the seal with it and then eventually worked it out. It's quite a pain and took us about 20 minutes. We observed no damage whatsoever upon removal.
Then we cleaned the area up, applied some fresh oil on the spindle and seal and slid it on. It gets tricky when the spindle gets bigger toward the center. The spring has a tendency to come off. Once I got to the last lip on the spindle to get over, I applied slight pressure and slowly twisted the seal clockwise and it made its way over top. Then I tapped it in very lightly. I took pictures beforehand to square it up with where it was before.

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

These are the old crank seals that came out. Slight damage due to removal but were both leaking pretty bad. Who knows if they ever got replaced in their lifetime. Could be fresh from the early 70s

 

[iwannachopwood]

I finally got out with 1 of my 10-10A unit 4 600013k to try out some wood yesterday. Boy did i have fun on this saw!! the engine sounds awsome!

few things, once i was warmed up, i wanted to try to tune the carb a bit, it seemed really close to begin with. So like other chainsaws i lowered the idle to as low as i could go, almost having to feather the throttle to keep it running. Then the Low needle i tried leaning it out, there was no response. From 1 1\4 to 1 1/2 it stayed idling, If i went leaner it..just..slowly..died, if i went counterclockwise it slowly died. i never got the increasing rpms as i leaned the Low needle some. i wonder if that means i gotta clean the carb. it ran really good!! The High needle reacted right away, richer produced a gargggly under full throttle , leaner produced a scream. this was achieved at like 1 1/2 turns. i checked the burn on the plug it was a nice chocolate brown after a few tanks,


-what do you guys use to adjust the H L needles, there's no hole in the cover for a small flat head, i can reach in and turn the L and H but its a pain in the butt with the filter off, through about drilling a smalll hole and putting in a small plug ( but may get lost and cause a lean mixture) not enough room between H & L to slide a hose in between.
-i had to swap a rim because it was slipping on the chain.
-the auto oiler wasnt working, ill turn the screw, try some more
-I think my bar is bent because the saw cut great at the tip and close to the power head of the machine, mid bar it was like a dead zone no cut. maby my gauge is wrong?
thanks

 

[heimannm]

The most noticeable changes when adjusting the L (within reason) are the way the engine accelerates. You should be able to achieve a stable idle with the chain stopped, then good acceleration when you hit the throttle. If you have to keep a finger on the throttle it is not adjusted correctly.

Problem with the bar could also be irregular wear, the rails need to be square with the body of the bar. It is not uncommon for the rails to wear unevenly, especially when someone does a lot of cutting in one spot/area of the bar. I have used a 10" sanding disk in my table saw but now days I have the bar rail grinder from Baileys.




It is also possible that the groove/rails are worn and need to be closed for better performance. I have the bar rail closer but you can achieve acceptable results with a hammer, some guys will put a shim in the groove to prevent going too far.



First step should be to make sure that the bar groove and chain drive links match, .050 groove for .050 chain, etc.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Hi Guys.I just got a Super 10-10 & found that it has no spark.The previous owner swears that it had spark before he shipped it.What I'd like to know is which way do I turn the flywheel nut to remove it so I can get to the points?I can see the condenser just under the flywheel.Thanks in advance!

 

[mogulmasher]

Still got some tuning to do, but got the pro 10-10 up and running last night. Put a 10-10a tank and af cover on and missing brake components for now.

 

[heimannm]

Flywheel nut is RH thread so CCW to remove.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Thanks Mark,I wanted to be sure after what happened with my 7-10.Lol

 

[heimannm]

S's



Mark

 

[mogulmasher]

S's

View attachment 679998

Mark

Nice! Beautiful saws.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Quite a nice and clean little batch right there indeed!

 

[Josh N]

Chunked up some backyard firepit wood today with the 10-10 auto. I can't say enough good things about this saw, it just "feels right" in your hands, so nimble and responsive. Just the ultimate in simplicity, styling, and power......and that sound!
View attachment 678625 View attachment 678626

Just got my self a Mac 10-10 Auto. After new bar and chain, carb cleainging. Man o man is this saw fun to run!!

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

I just installed a new piston/rings in my 10-10A (from chainsawr). I also installed new bearings and a new wrist pin. I tapped out the old wrist pin using a non marring punch set and upon installing the new one, I was able to press in it just by pressure applied from my thumbs and once it was in, in seemed slightly loose. Not to the point where it would fall out of the piston if I turned it on its side but I could probably press it back out with some thumb pressure. Wondering if this is normal for new wrist pins that aren't held into place by circlips because I would like to get this saw back together today and see how she runs with the new piston/rings!