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lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
Starting on the second 372xp. This time I cleaned up the squish band, .0205 squish without gasket. Had to trim the skirts on this one.
UPDATE: It's all ported out, I went with more aggressive numbers on the port timing on this one so I can run them side by side and see which I like better.
Getting ready to order another crankcase and rear handle so I can start the 52mm build also. In the mean time I will port the Echo CS590 and put the 620 coil on it to finish it off.
Then I'm just down to building the McCulloch 555, I was able to find a NOS long block for it, I just basically have to paint it and assemble it.
 

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lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
Waiting for a set of Caber rings and the Husky 372 decal this one is done.
Well I guess I cannot say OEM, it has a Mako P/C, Nachi C3 bearings, Stens air filter, Stens Rim/Drum. Other than that this one is my OEM. I do have a OEM P/C kit for it if I decide to put it in.
Oh, one Farmertec part, intake manifold support.
 

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lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
The grinder is okay, however I still use my pencil attachment from my Dremel tool more. I basically use the dental grinder when I have to. The attachments for the Contra head have to have a ring in them and it's a pain to get them on the bits, I basically have to chuck them up in my lathe and use my dremel tool with a diamond cut wheel in order to put a groove in them. I wish there was a better alternative but it's the dental tool or over $300 for the next option that I have found.
So I'm not saying I would recommend the dental tool but there just aren't a lot of options out there.
 
CJ Brown

CJ Brown

"I learned this from a hockey card..."
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
1,685
Location
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
Thanks. I have seen that same dental tool on ebay and wondered if it was something that would work for grinding upper transfers. The handpieces the pros here are using are crazy expensive and I can't afford something like that, but maybe this dental tool would be worth a try.
 
lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
Thanks. I have seen that same dental tool on ebay and wondered if it was something that would work for grinding upper transfers. The handpieces the pros here are using are crazy expensive and I can't afford something like that, but maybe this dental tool would be worth a try.
CJ, do you have a lathe? if so I can show you a trick to help get the burs to work in the Contra head (Angled head). They are only designed to work in the straight head attachment.
 
Jasent

Jasent

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
108
Location
NorthEastern wa
Progress on my jonsered 2094 turbo. Case is sealed up gasket trimmed out. New bearings/seals installed (metal cage) and hyway pop up for husky 395 and caber rings. Opened up muffler port to 75% and gutted baffles. Finished porting it this morning. Stock was 106,126,71. I went with 103,126,78. Widened intake and exhaust and upper transfers. Few more parts to show up before she can fire F5A3FE9C-E301-4FF1-8D9F-BE01EA745C53.jpeg
 
lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
I have to change out the O-ring on my gauge still, I know it has a small leak but even with the leak the OEM build is coming in at almost 150psi compression on new rings and having never been ran. I'm betting it is 175+ on the compression because pulling this thing over compared to my new 372XT is night and day difference and when I tried the gauge on my XT it was only reading 120psi.
 

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lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,349
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
OK, the second 372 build fought me tooth and nail and pretty much had me on the ropes. It was hard to start and acted like the low side jet was clogged, I could try to tune it but it was a dog coming up to rpm so I decided fine I will swap out the OEM carb that I rebuilt and put the China special on it, NO GO, it wouldn't even hit. Now I'm frustrated and order a new OEM carb but while waiting on the new carb to get here I tear apart the used OEM I had on it and check all the passages and it acts like it's working fine so then I tear apart the China special carb and it's dry inside so then I check the lever and find it is set to low so I bend it to where it should be.

Fast forward, new carb shows up and I put it on the saw and I'm all happy to go test it out, same thing, Low end doesn't want to tune and then I hear POP and now I know I have a timing issue so I pull the OEM flywheel off and look at the key and see it is sheered so I put a China special flywheel on and she runs hard and strong now. I'll get me another used OEM and replace it but this build has fought me the entire build compared to the Huztl/OEM/Aftermarket build I did, it went together and was running like a cheetah out of the gate.

In the end I made sure, even with the fight, that this saw was built right and running right.
 

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